manxsta

thankyou for your time chris...i have much specific imformation...and willl do a lot of good for future tuning...but i cant beleive out of all the diagrams i have now..that none of them are specific to my ecu jecs 22611 AA001 A11-000-971 5204

thankyou for being so helpful...

Ill second this notion.....i have simular difficultys finding ea82t wiring diagrams for simply check up jobs..its soo damn frustrating when all you want to do is trace a few wires here and there.....its like there is so many different ea82t wiring diagrams..i got one of miles fox,s which is good but there are many wires that are not the same on mine but many which are also..this is due to state and country emmision laws i guess, an ecu pinout of a 3 plug ecu would be like finding a gold nugget for me at the moment.... ea82t 86 model with flapper box and external knock sensor..simular to miles fox diagram but different colors here and there..all the injecter wires are right so is the ignition and pump relay.....also the knockbox but a lot that is different in color coding...anyone???? Ill go know before im booted off:grin: ....

86 flapper with separate knock box....this is this type of wiring but i noted the engine has 4/87 casted at the rear...forget this date though..go with the first details.....thanks

lambda as in o2 hooked up yes

Hi, this is going to be used in an offroad set up...so no a/c it might be easier to mention what i am using..it is running at the moment and quite well i might add...but i want it to run as economical as possible with the factory gear....ok here goes,,i have /injecters/tps/coolent temp/air temp..the one on the thermostat...this is the air temp? / knock sensor/ oil and water senders even though these dont go through the ecu/im sure, correct me if im wrong....idle up is connected to ecu but has an auxilary wire going to a relay which i have removed from the plug... i have ignition relay but fuel relay is not powering up fuel pump yet..( i will connect this soo) i have the fuel pump powered up by other means at the moment as i have run this in my garage to check all is well before fitting it to the vehicle...obviously all distributer and knock box is attached.... i have 2 cables that are coax protected..one goes to the o2 sensor and the other to the coil neg....are these interferance protected or simular? an ecu piunout for a 3 plug ecu would be sooo good at this point...anyhoo like i said it is all running but i want to be sure the o2 is functional and all is as it should be before i wrap it up with tape....also some idication of which diagnostic plugs to keep wouyld be good....i cut out all the extender test cables that stop at dead end plugs.....i think these are for testing units for ohms..etc but i can backprobe units easily now as the engine is on the rear of this vehicle and easily accesable...thanking everyone in advance for all replys..cheers

yes i have tps still..forgot to mention that one...i was pulling off the rear and only coolant temp sensor..not the coolant sender.....and it is flapper type

it might not be what you want to hear,but the easiest way is to change the crossmember out.....you could scollop the member then weld it up and spend more time doing that then it would take to change..not to mention it being as strong or not when you finish if scolloped....youll feel like crap messing around changing it.(after all your good work so far).but then you,ll feel a whole lot better when its done knowing your car is good to go ,,anywhere and safely... you can change it without removing the engine.....cheers

Does anyone know what the bare minimun of sensors needed to run to keep your ea82 t ecu out of failsafe mode.....what i have done is stripped an ea82t harness down to the engine wires only...it runs like this and seems all good with good power and clear/crisp.. but i only have the injecters/ coolant sensor/ air temp sensor/ knock sensor/and oil water senders connected......and i think it may be in failsafe mode..as removing the coolant plug does nothing..nor does removing the air temp sensor plug..engine still runs smoothly.....any ideas if im good to go.... or should i hook up more..like idle up solinoid...etc?? also i found a small air bleed type ball in line with the front vacuum pipes.. the ones in front of the throttle body...this was between the distributer pipe and the vacuum supply close to a t junction..i moved it to between the intake pipe and the vacuum line and wow..my timing vacuum advances now where as i think someone put it in the wrong place before....anyone ever seen on of these things jammed down the vacuum line..( its like a small brass ball around 3mm round with a hole in it...it looks factory..but which factory:lol:

check you coil , then check your points..change a few leads for known good ones off another engine,coil lead could be the culprit..and i am sure you will find the problem...cheers

fit a d/r 5 speed and send the auto to the scrapyard..sorry but this sometimes helps....

Yes i see everyone finally got to the good part...i was think of running an n/a block striaght gas(lpg) and use all the ea 82 t heads an all....looking around 9.1 which would be fair enough,and not asking to much here,when reliability comes into it......so all you would really need is the n/a dizzy to fire it all up and ditch the computer all together,you could have sane timing and forget about a knock sensor like the old days.. and forget about all the other crap too..then for then spirited ones..they could hook up there nitros..through the 4 injecters that would be waiting for something to do..or even methanol injection...4 full time short burst injectors...WOW..i think i even spun my own brain with all that. i cant really see why you would need the ecu at all with straight gas..any comments on this guys?

one cluster pulls out and one stays there until you pull the fascia away...this one is the air/heater control and is removable when the surround is removed first.....reason being is the 4 vacuum hoses attached and the wire cable to the heater box.....cheers ..i hope this helps..

Grandma sneeks out late in your soobi with out you knowing to see an ol boyfriend....i caught her pushing it back in the driveway after midnight..... ...check with her first ,before your next tune up....

if you recently bought this soobi..check the trunk for a body... that almost always does it... ....2nd theory...does your girlfriend sneek out in the car late at night????

The 2 connecters may be near the ecu under the steering column...they are green.. some soobi mechs say this does not make a difference when timing..others say it does..when i do my 82t timing i always connect them...then disconect when done...anyone else have some input on the connecter mystery?

i bought some monotorque yesterday for an ea82t in adelaide trade price was $49 for 1 pair which is both sides.....sounds like they trying to rip you !

Ok, anyone out there installed lpg on there soobi? I have a firend who has lpg on his ea82t wagon..he loves it..and with fuel prices these days, you could fit it on a 4 cyl without feeling like a scrooge,,,,, he fitted a tps calabration unit configured for lpg which comes on when you flick it over..and the efi cuts out the injecter pulse and fuel pump. i have a small block 350 in my aussie pick up(38$ every 15 days or so and i use in often to tow with) and it use,s less fuel than my ea82t(which dont have lpg) Sounds like the way of the near future for some 4 cylinders...what do you think guys?

I agree,the heat from the welded on nut is also a good part of the deal...any bolt in alloy can be easily extracted by heating the surrounding ally..it expands and lets go of the threaded shank......with the dizzy mod..u can easily put the advance springs in from the 2 wheel drive and acheive the same ..either or..6 of 1 or half a dozen of the other..cheers

I got the same set up on my rx wagon..but now its n/a and still sounds like a badass wrx...cheers

They need fast pick up,s there to catch the sheep....

exactly..they only go on one way...

best thing to do is , take the clutch off..its easy at this stage..and see if it fits the spline on the gearbox...that will answer that question..then check the bearing in the flywheel for any damage..makes sure its looks ok..good luck..cheers

YEH, this is relatively simple,but if your going to use the stub again..dont damage the thread....1/ you must unbolt your control arm first and brake line..so its all loose and will pull away when everything separates...hold the brake drum and assembly up and pull toward you...and using a 4 pound hammer have someone drift the stub through the hub spline... there is not a great deal of interferance in this press fit , so this works for me and can for you , if you dont want the stub just belt it with the hammer and it will come out..you wil need a drift to get it all the way through.. reassambly is as per usual..i hope this helps ..cheers

sounds like you could have a faulty preasure plate also,if the fork is loose and you cant get any gears,how old would you say the preasure plate is? was the clutch working fine before the snapped cable?