manxsta

sounds like youve done all you can ...make sure your ecu itself is grounded ,and thats about all you can do..the ecu should be checked ,by way of fitting another from a friends car(the same models) or simular..and see what you get..good luck...

MMMM, very sharp learning curve....weld it up dude and start over,,,,,good luck!

You could always do what we do here in oz..strap 2/ 44 gallon drums to the roof rack,1/ for oil 1/ for water, with hoses connected from them to the engine and drive untill the big tanks are empty...

Turbo,s set up in one direction or another wont matter,but the issue here is the size of the turbo..a larger than required turbo may put out more boost at less effort,but with a trade off,especially on a small 1.8litre engine ......your power(boost) will more than likely come in at a higher rpm. so youll lose some bottom end..and the power band may be too sharp too soon, and making for a fairly unforgiving power surge for street use...(narrow power band over a shorter rpm range, but powerful) the fuel mapping curve would look like a banana to run this set up. what you want is something like a t3 / t4 hibrid turbo, small exhaust body but larger compresser,this will allow it to spool up fast and pump the higher amount you need. this is only a simple explanation and it gets real technical when picking the right turbo for your exact set up...cheers

Thats about the same hp as one we recently dynoed 223hp....apparently the weak link in the turbos are the pistons at this level of tune....

Does it run now?..if not your 180 out on the dizzy....

yeh... the alloy gets eaten up.....just like fuel in your tank..there is nothing left afterwards....

Sounds like you may have powered up your lights from the brake light supply...reverse everthing you did and start again.....source your power for your lights from the battery feed in the rear of the fuse box.. if your pulling big amps use a relay setup also......this will fix the problem..cheers

when that happens to me..i just change out the whole stub and axle for a complete different one......they can get tight ..but i dont think it will bend ...they are case hardened to the max..cheers

Did you ever wonder, how the hell can i stop corrosion in my soobi engine? tight intake bolts etc etc... I think i have a solution guy,s?!!!! This may be one for the USRM.. in the regulalr maintenance section. For a few years now i have been experimenting with anti corrosive theorys,..... and maybe i have come up with a cool idea..(maybe) last time i did head gaskets on my ea82t..i bought a 18mm rod of aluminum.....i then proceeded to cut a 2 inch (51.2mm aprox.. for the imperial impaired) length off the rod. I then fitted this aluminum chunk into the large water jacket hole in the block,just above the centre of the cylinders...if you had heads off before youll know the hole i mean. I only fitted it to the distributer side,but could be fitted to both sides, i wreckon 3 years is long enough for head gaskets on a turbo.. Anyways..when i disassembled the engine this time there where no signs of tight bolts anywhere.....no corrosion to be seen..and what do you know..the sacrificial rod..was almost all eaten away.... :brow: .. So what do you think guy,s...am i on to somethin here..or just peeing into the wind? I was going to put in some lead but decided on aluminum.... any response,s on this theory would be welcome......

Today i thought id,e lost my wagon forever! i was at my uncle,s farm and woken around 6 am..looked out side to where id,e parked my soob...and WTF! a cow had walked up through the night, and rested his/her head on the bonnet of the soobi and went to sleep...and was still there!! Ide say it was an allnighter as there was a patch of hoof marks in front of the car..and a few gallons of druel down the bonnet and over the bumper,must of had sweet dreams with the soobi......after i hosed the front down..i checked round back just to be sure the was no funny business through the night..all ok..

I hear a lot of guys say they have 3.9 and 3.7 ratios in there ea82 vehicle,s. in australia there was only the 3.7 ratio..and the splines on the rx gearbox and the stock box are the same....its amazing what they send where.....also every last one has the press button reciculaton button beside the air switch.....sounds like you got a fair deal of soobs over there though..cheers..

i agree with general disorder..best way to check if everything is fine..is see if you have 12v whilst cranking..if not then there is a fault with the engine revolution sensor under the drivers kick panel..or fuse...cheers

If your coolant temp sensor is working fine and actuallly functioning..you will notice idle up at cold start..after engine is warm..it will drop to normal idle..if it is hoovering above normal idle..that will be the problem.....i run a few ea82t,s and the oxygen sensor does not make the cel come on..if you disconnect it.... and will not let black smoke belch out the rear when disconnected..diesel will do this though..lol:lol: so i would look elsewhere for the problem.....cheers

Hi there, basically removal of the heads is much easier with the engine out..you will thank youself for doing out of the car..TRUST ME;)

Can anyone email me a readable wiring diagram for an 85-86 trap door air box ea82t..it is the diagram with separate anti knock box, the vehicle is r/h drive if that makes any difference..and im in australia....i do have one diagram that shows most colors but not all of the harness..i only really need engine related diagrams....any help would be good and an email of 1 would be great... thanks in advance for any help received..cheers

ill see what i can do for pics...the denso seems to be part of the distributer harness which goes inside the car, opposite the driver..could this be an igniter or anti detonation module? the other has around 5 pins...anyway..im just sorting out a harness for engine only running, and dont need all the other accesories that are there.....i have deleted all the diagnostics probes for testing and will back probe them on the engine if need be..looks like they are only there to make testing all items easy accesable from 2-3 diag plugs..i have left the pins in the plug for code reading and will i.d these and fit them into the sandproof box when im fitting up the conversion.its going in another sandrail....ill get back with somepics....if i cant i.d them before hand..thanks guys

ill buy the turbo version..as that is what it will need..thanks guys...

does anyone know what these control boxes are for here is all the info i found written on them here,s the first one 1/ kotto (sounds like the brand name) (discription) relay cleaner unit 2/ brand name is denso and numbers are 077200-0311 12v 62f japan i hope someone can id these..:-\ thanks

mmm, without the wiring and cpu(computer) you should not even start the conversion,as it is not a simple job,ideally your should have a complete turbo vehicle sitting beside you,as a donor, when you start.. good luck.

I had the pulley thing happen to me last week....but the free gliding thing did not follow.....maybe you were on the edge of a badass twister:grin: or maybe you just tapped into the free travel in a soob phenomenom:D Either way it sounds like fun..cheers

Hi, check the basic,s first...make sure all fuse,s are in order and good..then go round and check all your connecters, then double check where you carried out the work on your cat..and see if you mistakenly unpluged or bumped any wiring..its the way to go first before thinking about testing components....goodluck

I agree with SKIP..govenor not returning ..

they ARE COOL hey.....common enough in australia....:cool:

Hi , basically the only way your will have any chance of removing it is to pump the bolts and holes full of wd 40 or penetrating oil , let it soak and then pry it up with a lever between the intake and the engine(with care but you will need to use some force to start it moving....once it moves up a little,use more wd..and send it back down to the head..and repaet this until it eventually comes free..heat may be of some help alternativly..but i would opt against this method,patience will be your key..corrosion sucks..cheers