manxsta

Hey Dood..dont touch a thing..it will clear up as soon as it gets all nice and warm...theres no point checking valve lash as its not adjustable..the lifters will get oil soon enough and the noise will disappear...this is normal.cheers:)

Hi there...at 20 btdc..it should pull clear and crisp from around 1700rpm...maybe you need to check your air filter too,this can cause reduced flow and bad economy....you could be onto it with the green plugs though..i always do the green plug thing thing when setting timing ... some mech,s say it does not make a difference ..some say it does....i just follow what the subi books say..you cant really go wrong then... happy hunting......oh also FAT TONY..you dont have a misplaced body in the trunk do you...that will tear up your economy too..

check you did not bump a vacuum hose off...its sounds like its something simple like that, recheck the rotor button is down securely,and cap on right....if its points maybe you should change those too...it cant be anything else really...did you touch the carb screws???...

I Good to here..my girl actually does it often too!! check the coolant that is....at least there are some chicky babe,s out there who like to know whats happnin under the hood..cheers

today i bought a 1988 touring wagon..$300 electric glass etc the usual... the woman told me she had a head problem water out the exhaust , but ran smoth as silk..and assured me the subaru dealer told her the heads would have to be repaired..i bought it for parts anyhow.. trailered it home..and started the usual..see if i can fix it process... it did not want to hold water..she said it never cooked just droped the level in the reservoir more often than usual...now from experience how often do you women really check the coolant....???? once or twice a year???? anyways i took the intake off a little enough to get at the gaskets..and they wernt to bad but i sealed them with silicone..the bolts were not tight at all i even undid 1 with the socket and extension only..no rachet.. put it all back together all of about 20mins works..and whammo..it holds water..it does not bubble..and did not bubble before....the water level did not drop out of the cylinder head port beside the intake..i noted whilst doing the job...what do you think guys?...intake vacuum sucking the water in the intake port of the heads??? theres no water vapour out the pipe now..and no drop of coolant..i ran it for 45 mins idling and at 2000rpm many times...temp is usual 1 third.... maybe i had a win..any clues???

anyone know where to get ea82t piston kits..? any info would be appreciated..cheers:burnout:

I feel your pain brother.. dont hold back..you deserve a new STI 2.5 WRX...in the garage..cheers

same thing happened to my ea82t recently....i thought it was typical of an old pig.to leak oil aswell..so i removed the turbo to get at the top rear main bolt and it was not tight enough in my opinion..so i took it out..cleaned it with thinners..the hole also..then air dry with a shop compresser..then put auto motive silicone on it and reinstalled it..did the same with the bottom one while i was there..and whammo...no more oil leaks..its been 750 miles since i did this and no dramma since..cheers

Yeh,thats what happen to me and my girlfriend one afternoon,but luckily we were in a relaxed mood due to prior afternoon activity,s:D .. anyhoo, if it dont have a pin . ill bet a few bucks it will come off sooner or later...especially if you put the aircond on at moderate rpm..you know the way it click,s on and off themostically.....that pulls the pully against the torque of the bolt...some people put 2 rear timing belt drive sproket on and forget that the rear dont have the right pin hole.....cheers

could be intake gaskets ,head gasket , i doubt it would be timing gears as this would affect both side,s...check for spark/ fuel then compression..cheers good luck

theres only a couple ways youll get white smoke...keep an eye on the trans level...soundslike its sucking transfluid...

general disorder is on the money....I can change valve guide seals with out taking the heads off .... some lifters too! without removing rocker boxes..or camshafts. :brow: true..

2 things you need to know about soobi,s 1/ disconnect the egr vacuum hoses..and block it.. 2/ disconnect the vacuum hose to the atmospheric valve on the drivers inner gaurd bingo you,ll have around 35mile/gallon back...

yeh, i did all this to my n/a ea82 a while back,egr vacuum off..and the atmosspheric valve on the other side to the intake..im getting 9km / litre..i think that works out to be 35 mile/gallon or more...also with these change,s i was able to get a leaner idle mixture and had to idle the thing down as its efficiency went up noticeably,good stuff:grin:

once the car is warmed up the brass valve inside close,s and there is basically no flow...this unit is earthed to the thermostat housing,1 connecter is powered up as it has a heating coil inside like a auto choke, the other pin is a sensor to go to the ecu to tell how much it is open or closed 0%-100% feed input...just hook it up..its all good.

Any one ever experience intermitant loss of compression due to lifter mystery. spark good,fuel good recently i had noticed 1 cylinder has/had a temperay lose of compression..mild loss/not total. any how i pulled the injecter plug off,and found which cylinder it was, this only happens when given a mild rev and then let it come down to idle.it has a slight flutter,then goes away,and does not seem to be there when on the gas..this only happens when backed down from around 1500rpm...after some tests, i know the cause is purely lifter related..so i cleaned the lifters and the problem is almost non existant...and only flutters a little now when brought back to idle. anyone had this before,is there oil preassure under the lifter or something i dont know about yet??? the lifters seemed fine upon disassembly/reassembly, on the offending cylinder... and compression test is good....its like the lifters/lifter may be pumping up too much or simular.

if your getting around 13v or more to your battery terminals whilst the engine is running.rev the enginme a little just to make sure the alternater provides a steady 13v or more,and does not drop away...to a lower voltage..and all your battery /alternater and ground wires are clean and tight...then the only thing it can be is a dying battery..change it before it leaves you stranded if all else is good..cheers

Hi , you need to power up your cd from the existing power up from your old stereo.if you have a plug at the rear of your old stereo..this will help you alot as all will be found at this plug...most cd,s have a diagram on the stereo back for correct hook up....if you dont know where to find your power up..send a wire from the rear of your fuse box..solder your power up to an acccesory feed at the back of your fuse box..on the power side of the fuse connecter.there are many auxilary points to connect to behid all fuse boxes... you can use a test light to see where your power is coming from..at the rear of the fuse box..1/you want to find power from a constant source for your memory..2/and then you want power from a source which is hot only in the accesory/ignition on position, for your normal on power wire to the cd..3/and you will also need to groung one wire for earth, from the cd...4/speaker wire hook up is easy if you read the stereo pinout diagram...on the back of the unit....just dont hook anything around the wrong way..if you read carefully you will surprise yourself and have a working cd installed in around a half hour....good luck..

The only control module i have seen on stock carbed models is the revolution sensor....this stops the fuel pump from going unless the engine is turning..then it allows the pump to function..it is usually mounted beside the fuse box on the pillar tower behind /above the drivers kick panel..cheers

sound interesting leon...i would prefer to run a map sensor..manifold absolute preasure, this way you can eliminate the afm and run a pod straight out of the turbo(inlet) there are map calibrated kits for this conversion and are graphed to acheive good mapping of throttle load... But a wolf 3d is what i would go for first...anyone with a resonably priced wolf 3d version 4 out there for sale....??? the mega squirts sound interesting..

thanks for the info...my set up is the very first type from what i gather,and it has a vacuum advance yes..but also has a knock box separate on the passenger side of the car attached to the aircond unit under the dash.....anyways..i have all that set up......but even steve rising sun does not known and he is a soobi specialist..with all the plug in gearfor our models ..i went to see him today with my loom to figure out a few loose ends..and he scrached his head then shrugged his shoulders like they never made this model..as he only goes back to early 87...anyhoo it runs well but i want to make sure i am out of limp mode to get primo economy......lambda is the constant correction of air fuel message sent to the ecu from the o2 sensor for stoich to occur....amongst other tec terms.....sooooo anyone out there ever set eyes on a pinout diagram for this model.... its close to the miles fox version for most but missses out on colors for cal switch and a handful of other pins i would just like to know if there may be some others to hook up to make it all shmick.... I wish nipper would get back to me as he dissappeared when i mentioned the o2 term also. ..all the same i am getting the feeling that there may not be a pinout diagram in the hands of any of us....

Hi..pic 1 / there are 2 fittings in the intake manifold for these pipes to go to,,if you have a factory intake which looks to be..then they will be there pic 2/ the items is called a vacuum advance diaphram which deals with preasure from the turbo also.... pic3/ ?? not sure pic 4/ if you dont have a oil preasure gauge on the dash..fit a sender suited to a light ..not a gauge type like you have..that one is factory rx..i have the factory rx dash and dash loom if you want it.. pic5/this is the idle up for air cond...its not a knock sensor..cheers dude....

Hi , this sounds like an electrical problem in the distributer,the tacho indicate there is some problem there by jumping up to 4k.,plus the misfiring / backfiring etc...if it where fuel...i would expect the problem to be more constant ,if you can..change out this dizzy with a known good one..just to eleminate the dizzy....you may have to cruise a few days though untill the problem shows up again, if it does...with the car not starting off the starter always..shows there is a lack of power to the ignition system..sometimes ignition bypasses are fitted to overcome voltage drops wilst cranking on some vehicles.....i think that is why you can clutchstart the car with success and not always by the starter...oh check the coil for a known good one too!...you can install yours on a friends car of the same type and see if the problem is still there or not..usually with a coil there are either working fine or have a weak spark or none at all....so your looking for a fat blue spark...try this first..cheers

Hi guys..i have downloaded many interesting documents for soobi,s.. HTKYSA that is great for early soobi owners then part 1 and 2 of the oem manual with much needed imformation and some other,s...i would like to thank all who have helped, the response has been outstanding all. thankyou.. I still cant beleive i have not come accross the right pinout for my ECU yet:slobber: The ECU is JECS 22611 AA0011 A11-000-971 5204 I am officially calling this the hens tooth of ecu,s for soobi,s . Its a flapper box set up with separate knock sensor and for an 1986 models I wonder if there IS someone out there with the pinout /wiring diagram?:-\

Hi guys..this is becoming the wholly grail, how can i remove this thread..? its a duplicate:confused: read the the next wholly grail thread..thanks