keltik

Hey guys, some answers for ya. Power Outputs at the bottom. I know from first hand experience those numbers are about right. Second gen twin turbo (1999-2002) was the best and put out around 245hp. Most people down here buy a twin turbo and convert it to a single as the twins have crap drive-ability. Their control system is also the most complex thing known to man. If you do want to go twin - please think of your fuel bill.....The primary turbo spools as low as 2000rpm with very little load. This makes it very difficult to get a good fuel economy. The twin turbos are well known for being Subaru's most fuel hungry motors. Also bear in mind aftermarket ECU's have a hard time running the twins. Parts from any EJ20 will fit onto the twin turbos. The only difference was the drivers side head which included the oil feeds for the secondary turbo. Your most practical solution would be to get a EJ20 from a Legacy RS or a version 3/4 WRX. They have a single turbo setup and with very minor mods are capable of the same power as the twins. 2002 Twin Turbo - 191kw @6000rpm http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/subaru/legacy_wagon/2002_5/28484/ 1997 Twin Turbo *Limited Edition - 206kw @ 6500rpm http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/subaru/legacy_wagon/1997_9/28550/ Single Turbo - 205kw @6500rom http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/subaru/impreza_wrx/1998_9/27636/

Personally have seen 2 pulleys go bad and then had to personally tow those cars home. I shall be fitting an aftermarket pulley to the turbo. as it rarely sees the low side of 4000rpm. I cant see the car gaining any testable performance from a new pulley, and this car IS stripped out. Finally i wont have to worry about the dam thing breaking.

In all my cars ive built exhausts for (4...2 of which were subarus) i found a glasspack resonator placed about 1foot after the downpipe or Y section gets rid of the crackle. Using a smaller pipe size to build the system takes away the boom. Im getting pissed off with mine at the moment as its lovely and quiet during normal driving but you get quite a drone in the cabin on hill climbs. Generally between 2,000 and 3,000rpm. Im pretty sure thats down to the large diameter pipe used. Did you guys in the states get those mufflers with servo actuated valves in them to control the loudness?

Hey guys. My headlights in my fancy 02 wagon suck! How do you like your lights? Leave a pic or a description of how you rate your headlights on whatever models you have. Also does anyone know if the 1998-2000 model legacys had better lights than the 2000-2002? Same shape but different reflector design. 2002 Legacy Low Beam HID Lights - stock 2002 Legacy High beam - blue tint halogens (low beam remains on) 2002 Legacy High beam + Fog lights (low beam remains on) Try and spot the difference between low and high beam.....then compare it to when i knock the fog lights on. 1990 Legacy Low Beam Halogen bulbs - Stock 1990 Legacy High beam halogens (low beam turns off) As you can see the 1990 Legacy headlights actually illuminate a greater distance but at a lower intensity. In my 2002 Its actually brighter for me to turn my fog lights on than to use the full beams.And the lights in my '90 are better for night driving. All of my lights are aligned to the correct level and have been checked at a vehicle testing station.

The airbags are in the seats? That would explain why i didnt find anything when i took my b-pillar trim off. Nice seats there mate - good score! New seats really transform a car.

JDM Legacies have had them since 1997. NZDM (pretty similar to euro spec) have had them from 2000 onwards. Have also seen a 2000 Outback with the belt.

LOL.....apparently i was charged to my dads company as a new engine for his '74 MG. Tax deductable goodness! And the MG had to make do with a cheap rebuild Should be some interesting times ahead for ya. Remember to thank your car with a hearty wash 'n wax Good luck mate!

weird vibration problem?.....like clutch shudder? mines doing that occasionally as the torque converter tries to lock up at low rpm (1200ish) Great cars, '03 and newer are pretty dam good vehicles. Ive heard the H6 motors like to kill alternators (usually bearings fail) so thats the only extra thing id check.

Personally id go with the FWD transmission as the final drive ratio is much nicer. Also it keeps everything tidy under the car. Even though you could fit a AWD transmission with a bit of work - its still not as professional and tidy as getting another FWD in there.

as i see it...new rotor = less wear on the park break lining so youd probly have to back it off a bit more to compensate. If not it could possibly be the caliper sticking too. Tightening the lug nuts makes the rotor sit at a slightly different angle to the pads. If everything isnt seated in properly it would easily lock the wheel,

Hey guys, Ive noticed on my 2002 Legacy the a/c has a few different settings. As i have the JDM lcd unit in the dash i can switch it to display all the HVAC information. Pressing the Auto button once switches all of the vents on and switches the a/c to run most of the time (depending on the temp). Pressing the Auto button again will put the a/c system into economy mode. The compressor cycles less often and it doesnt cool as quickly. Nothing else indicates this on my car other than a small "Eco" symbol on my LCD display so i also thought my a/c was stuffed. I can also manually switch the a/c off and the car will try to best hold the temp without it. The final setting is if i switch the fan speed or vents the climate control will change to monitoring the air coming out of the vents. It then tries to keep this temp closest to whats selected - again the air isnt as cold as on full auto. Hope some of this applies to the US cars :-\

If you can get a hold of an AWD transmission its quite easy to use this instead of the FWD model. The gear ratios will be slightly different. All youll need to do is weld up the center diff (lots of info on nasioc) then fit a plug or cap on the rear output shaft. Manuals do leak oil without the driveshaft in place. Sounds like a broken shifter fork to me but im really no expert on this, i only destroy auto transmissions. When you say it just locks up in any other gear selection - that tells me its got some internal issues.

I had the headers on my honda set some grass smoking.....Now that i think about it that was after removing the heat shield too. I regularly used to drive that thing hard enough to have the pipe glowing bright red as far back as the cat. It looked freakin awesome parking up at night with a faint red glow coming from under the car and through the grille.

Hey guys. Vehicle is a 1989 Legacy GT, motor is a EJ20T but the wiring is very similar to the EJ22's you all know and love. On my drive to Auckland a couple weeks ago the engine decided to cut out on me....several times. Each time it presented with the same symptoms: Engine would crank fine but would not even attempt to fire. Check engine light would NOT be illuminated with ignition on Coolant temp gauge would be pegged on HOT With ignition off there would be a faint glow from the oil pressure and charge idiot lights Idle control valve would not make the humming it usually does with ignition on After wiggling the main bit of wiring (runs from the 3 terminals near the battery and powers coil packs, injectors, temp sensors and TPS) that runs under the Intake manifold, the car would fire and start easily. However im assuming the vibration of driving would knock this wire loose and the engine would cut out again. I eventually fixed it by duct taping the wire to the nearest thing (intercooler water pipe) so it couldnt move and this fixed my problem. The car continues to run fine. Whats the likely culprit for this? I know its going to be a loose wire or ground but rather than remove the intake to find it - id love to know which connection could be affecting the ECU like this. Are there any ECU power connections or grounds under there? When i had the intake off last i plugged everything back in as it should be but its totally possible one has worked loose. I just need to know which one as all still seem to be connected. Thanks for any help.

They fit shorter wound springs....but after a small amount of lowering you need new shock too to compensate for the different springs.

Score!!

Yup exactly the same. Front ones are a wee bit more involved than rears but a pair should only take an afternoon and 3 beers.

I think every car owner on the planet has had this happen. As the oil leaks from the shock it loses its ability to dampen the bumps in the road. Ive driven a XT turbo and my old 89' Legacy sedan with completely empty rear struts and it was not a happy place to be. On cornering the inside rear wheel would just bounce around and even lose contact with the road. You might also notice the corner of the car with the dodgy stut will continue bouncing after youve hit a bump. They dont fail catastrophically (like snap in half and rip your wheel off) they just slowly get worse untill your car handles dangerously. Most good shocks can be rebuilt but usually its cheaper to replace them. Im not looking forward to the day my factory Bilsteins start leaking as its near $1000 to get a pair rebuilt or replaced. Original pink STI struts are almost cheaper

Yup leaking shock or strut means its dying. Sorry to go just a little bit OT but did you guys get "Bilstein" models in the USA? Cars that had specially tuned bilstein struts.....identified by a wee badge on the back and bright yellow struts.

You can use an early 90's Legacy turbo rear diff which was VLSD and 4.444 ratio. I think the internals do swap over but its quite a bit of work.

Well they are obviously well worn plugs. So my bet is still on the electrode degrading and allowing some of the copper core to vapourise. Maybe during gapping the plug the outer coating was damaged in these areas...or maybe its just old. I think the best test will be to see what the new ones look like in a couple thousand miles. Do you use any fuel additives?

Oxidised copper from the core of the electrode? Thats all i can think of....

Just a couple little updates that might interest you guys. Im getting approximately 500kms on 40liters of gas = 29mpg Thats almost all highway driving but still a nice number - im happy with it. My H6 GT30 is getting 26mpg doing mixed highway and town driving.....but it has air-con, leather, a heater, premium stereo and carpet so i'd still rather drive it to work over the track car. At a dyno day organised by a fellow ClubSub/subtalk member, the turbo made this run: This run from a stock EJ20T with the air to water intercooler, only mod is a cat-less downpipe. My boost pressure is far too low at the moment so my next addition to the car will be a boost tap so i can dial it into 12psi where it should be. Edit: Just wanted to note this is just the first run. I wanted to get a base line before i start playing with things. The next run im aiming to break 150kw at the wheels. After that ill be hitting the track to get my driving up to scratch

I laughed

Damn right - These cars are heavy but they still grip really well. In a snowy area VDC is an awesome addition. From what ive heard at the local dealer, it essentially gives you LSD's all round by braking whatever individual wheel is slipping. Really its just ABS with a smarter computer.