rsb

I guess in part it depends on wether it is a generation 1 brat or a generation 2 brat. For a generation 1 brat, it dosent matter if it is brat specific or not, if it can be removed and is salvagable it is worth saving as most parts are unavailable. If it is a generation 1... I could use a shift knob, drivers side tail light, a dent free tailgate, and a distributor that is not worn out.

If I had bottomless pockets I'd pick up a supercharger from http://www.dicklandy.com/Products/index.htm#Supercharger. They come set up for Aircooled VWs and make it fit on the EA71 in my 78 Brat. That would be pretty sweet!

If you swap those pistons into another block, I'd keep the pistons matched up with the heads. It dose'nt look like there is much room for things to be off in those compression chambers. I suspect those heads are shaved to bump up the compression because they clearanced for the spark plug. When you get it running again, only use premium gas to avoid detonation. While you have the heads off, you might want to find a spark plug that wont stick too far into the cylinder. good luck, thats a sweet find.

Did you fill your quota yet? I have a brat in Woodinville if you're interested.

Thanks for the tips guys! I think I might have to track down a copy of this "how to keep your subaru alive" book. The thought of rebuilding an engine with the Chiltons manual I have is enough to give me nightmares.

Hi all historic subaru enthusiasts, I have a 78 Brat with an ea71. I ran a compression test this past weekend, and it seems I have a bad valve on cylinder 4. I'm going to have to pull the engine to pull the head, as my frame rails are too close to the engine from a previous accident. I figure while I have the engine out, I might as well do the valve seals some of them leak, and replace the oilpan gasket which also leaks. That is my starting point and as projects go, who knows what else will be needed till I get into it. Im curious if I should get an engine stand, or just work on it on a work bench or hanging from a hoist? I found several places on line that have gasket sets and valve seals, but I havent been able to fnd any rings. Does anyone know if rings are still available for the ea71? Any advice on tracking down a servicible distributor? Thanks for the help, Brian

73mako, do any of those engines run? I might be interested in one. Thanks, Brian p.s. you might try the transplant section of the forum for EA 71 to EA 81 swap info, or search.

My carb is the hitachi. It doesnt idle, but you get pretty good at feathering the pedal and using the E-brake at stop lights. but my car is so out of tune its laughable. I did a little bit of maintenance on it a while back, reset the valves, and an oil change... while I was at it I bought a jug of "sea foam" and added it to my gas and oil. My dad was going on and on about what a difference it made in his trucks so I figured what the hell. Then the next day on the drive home from work it started smoking really bad on throttle so I pulled the number four plug and it was covered in black goo. So I replaced all the plugs and let it sit in my garage, starting it up once or twice a week. I took the Brat out today, and it actually idled. I was amazed. Doesnt cold idle, but at stoplights it actually stays running. I am thinking aside from the being horribly tuned, my engine was just VERY dirty. You'd be amazed how much a little gunk will mess up a carborator.

Have you tryed adjusting the carb? The first carborator I rebuilt was the one on my 78 Brat. I learned that rebuilding a carborator is easy, getting it to work again is the difficult part. Mine refuses to idle, and is far worse off than before I rebuilt it. I vote buy a new one if that is the problem. It never hurts to try but dont be too disapointed if it doesnt come out perfect. P.S. my MPG is in the low 20s. Brian

for some good reading check out http://www.subiegal.com shes got some good info in here Rally FAQs section also links to rally classifieds. good resource. -Brian my 2 cents I think a 78 brat w/ a big motor would be smokin

While you're at it, you might also want to check the big nut under the hub cap that holds the wheel/ brake caliper on. The easiest way to test it is grab the wheel and give it a push pull action. The nut has a collar on it which you use a punch to bend the collar into a slot to keep it from backing out. I had that nut back out on my 78 brats drivers front wheel but it was making a wierd intermitent squeek noise. I probably would not have noticed the noise if I had not had my window rolled down. brian

With dark blue as the main color I'd go with either neon orange, or green as an accent color

http://www.nadaguides.com (under classic cars, under passenger cars, under subaru, under 1978, under brat) lists the value at; low $1550, mid $1825, high $2800, with the original MSRP being $4329. Its sad that my brat as rare as it is, is worth less than my dime a dozen vw super beattle (low $2500, mid $3925, high $7800).

I got the new sensor installed, added 2.25 quarts of oil and it started right up... and no more oil leaks!

Thought I would give you guys the update... I checked under the car and it was leaking out of the oil preassure sensor only. I pulled the skid plate off to make sure, and yup thats it. I went to pick up a replacement yesterday and they had to order it. It came in today, but on the way to pick up the part the one thats on there gave up on me so I had to do the old dump a quart of oil in at the stop light trick. Im going to go put the new sensor in.... I sure hope the car starts:-\

The main reason I need to do something about my EA71 is that it leaks about a 1/4 of a quart of oil a day and leaves a trail behind it. Also it has started runing worse than usual... No pep till just about redline, stalling, missing... and it has a wicked backfire wich has gotten worse since it started leaking oil. So at the very least, I have to pull the engine and replace whatever gaskets are blown and I suspect I will find some other fun chores when I get that far in.

The EA71 in my 78 Brat is just about at the end of its life. I was wondering if it is still possible to get enough parts to rebuild an EA71, and also what other subaru engines can be stuffed in there, with limited modification. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks for the heads up! I noticed on my parts car that that part of the fuse block was missing that part and the plug was burnt, so I had a feeling it was probably a common thing. Any suggestions what gauge wire to run? Thanks! Brian

Hi, I was trying to fix the dashlight on my 78 brat... I figured it was just a bulb so I pulled one out of my spare instrament cluster, but that didnt help... so I cheked the headlight switch fuse and it was burning hot after only a short while... (have a nice fuse shaped burn on my finger)... everything works except the dash light, but the fuse gets dangerously hot. Has anyone else had this problem? Any idea what is wrong with it? :-\

Hi, I have been trying to figure out how the tail gate is supposed to open on my 78 Brat. The handle lifts and I can feel it move some stuff around in there, but it wont open. Any ideas, or pictures of tail gate inards would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Brian

78 subaru brat black interior, exterior: originally green, currently silver from the doors forward, hopefully some day yellow. I seak the holy grail! Rocket seats plus hardware. Drivers side tail light. Black ash tray plus mounting hardware... have blue. I think thats it for my wish list right now... I have a bunch of parts sitting in my dads barn right now, but I havent seen anything I have that anybody wants. Do have spare 4x4 tranny out of 78 brat I assume it works, aparently cars cause of death was blown head gasket.

Hi, I am curious to know what the compression for an EA71 is supposed to be as would be revealed in a compression test. I tried looking it up in my chiltons manual but where it tells you about compression testing it refers you to a chart which mentions nothing about what the compression should be. The reason I ask is because my 78 brat went from 20MPG to like 10MPG and started smoking more than usual with a noticible drop in power. So I parked it hoping to salvage the block and started fixing my super beattle. Then I end up needing a new engine, so Im having a performance engine built for it so it could be 6 months or so before that shows up. So I tested the compression on the subaru, all plugs out, with thread in compression tester, rotated to 6 pulses, 2 readings for each plug, with a battery charger handy to keep cranking power even. Dry test I got: #1 160 psi, #2 160 PSI, #3 155 PSI, #4 160 PSI. Plugs were all black and crudy, plugs for 1 and 3 were wet. Wet test (squirted 2 squirts 10w30) : #1 180psi, #2 180 psi, #3 175 psi, #4 180psi. Those numbers seem pretty good (high and even) so Im thinking the problem is probably with the carborator or vacume lines, but I want to know what the factory spec is. Thanks in advance, -Brian