mdjdc

If the airbags went off you will have to replace the airbag control module. If you did not have the airbags go off, there is no reset for them. Just hook the battery back up and the system should be good to go.

I would replace the front main seal, reseal the oil pump and check the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump. I would also replaced the cam seals if they are leaking. you are in ther so you might as well do it all at once.

I see some oil on the filter and that tells me that there is a leak in the front of the engine. That can easily get oil blown back and on to the exhaust. Get the car up on ramps and look at the back side of the oil pan. If you see that it is wet with oil up near the mating surface, you most likey have the seperator plate issue. Unless you are doing the job yourself, it is going to be an expensive repair. Engine removal is required and that gets pricey. If yo do it yourself, get the updated plate from Subaru and the new bolts to go with it. Use a good RTV and it will be done. Check the rear main for wetness. If it is dry, LEAVE IT ALONE!!! Then fix the fromt leaks and you should be good to go.

You more than likely, have a leak of the oil seperator plate. That is on the back of the engine and requires removal of the engine for repair. It could be the rear main, but I doubt it. The front could be the front main or the cam seals. A common leak is at the valve covers. If you really want to fix it right, pull the engine and do a reaseal of the major gaskets. Not fun, but not that bad either. A weekend project. If the leak isn't that bad you can build a diverter to keep the oil off the exhaust. I worked on a car that had one on it and the guy's father had made it out of a soda can and bolted it on the front of the engine crossmember to keep the oil from working it's way onto the CAT. Have fun

If your legacy was a 2.2 then the transmissions are going to have a different final drive. you will need to swap the rear from the legacy as well.

The problem with going to a subaru sticker is that you are going to have to buy the entire package. The dealer does not seperate the stickers out. They only come in an entire car and they ae very expensive. A graphic company will do the job for you at a fraction of the cost.

Again, I have a set of perfectly good heads that I can send to you and you can repair the engine that you have. Not that big a deal. Let me know if you want them. They are complete with cams, valves and lifters. Mike

I'm in Richmond, VA. Call me if you want to 804-393-0516

I am willing to bet the store that the code you are getting is for catalytic inefficiency. You will NEVER fix that without replacing the cats with subaru cats or using the sntifouler work around. The cat is not bad just not working perfectly. I had the same situation and used an aftermarket cat. The coed went away for 3 months and then returned. What a waste of money. I even replaced both O2 sensors and the coed still came back. A master mechanic (subie) told me that it's a very common problem with all the crappy gas out there. He said the subie cats are much more robust but even he wouldn't replace them for what subaru wants. He told me to just deal with the CEL and check the codes every so often to see if a new one popped up. Good Luck

You actually have to dissassemble the head unit and find the cracked solder joint. Resolder it and you should be good to go.

I did this not too long ago with my daughter for her build. Very straight forward and the shifter is plug and play also. All of the bolt holes for the shifter boot even line up. She runs great. The only hiccup we had was a problem with the kick down relay circuit. When she would depress the gas pedal too hard the fuse would blow. We ended up finding out which wire went to the computer and cutting it and the problem went away, but now she has a constant CEL. Guess we'll just have to live with that. Good luck

Remember, He is in New York and it is liable to be a bit more expensive. I can call my sister and find out the name of her mechanic. He is very reasonable and very trustworthy. He works on the subs I built for her and my nephew and he likes them although I didn't leave him much to work on. If you want to take a weekend trip, I can do the job for you, but then you will have the expense of gas and tolls. Down here it is about 200 per side plus parts, so not a real bad job, but not cheap either. If I had a set of hubs I would get them for you and ship them up, but I just got rid of the last set I had. I can look at the local JY if you want.

Just let me know how I can help

I've got the ecu for you. Make me an offer and I can get it boxed and shipped to you. Mike

Nipper: I have a good end link, good ebrake shoes ( look almost new). Let me know if I can help you out at all. I can also get the wheel bearings for 35.00 a set fornt and 37 rear. Mike

You will notice that there is a little indent next to the hole. Put a sharp punch in there and the pin can be pryed out. Kind of a pain when the ignition is still in the car, but doable.

You have to actually pull the pins out. They only go in on the newer generation cars. Makes taking the tumbler ou a real PITA

If you don't want to mess with the JY, I have one in a 97 that I can sell to you. In decent shape too. Make me an offer and I can box it up.

I will look at what I have and get back with you later. Hopefully today, but definitely tomorrow. Have you done the fuel check? You really need to do that so that you don't put in an ECU and find out that you have a bad pump. Try using brake cleaner into the intake and see if the car starts, if it does, you have a fuel issue, if not then fall back on the ECU. I will be in touch. Mike

In order to check the fuel pump, you need to pull the line off the fuel filter up under the hood. Crank the engine and the fuel should shoot out of the filter over the bumper on out. you may want to put a small hose on the filter so you can direct the fuel away from the engine bay. There should be a strong stream when you are cranking the motor. If not the pump is bad or you have a bad pump relay. The relays don't go that often though.

Get the numbers off your ecu. I probably have one.

The big question is, did you use subaru HG's? If not, you probably blew them again. If you did, I would look elsewhere as in the bleed of the system. Hopefully, you got it after bleeding the system.

Excellent!!!!

K&N filters come precharged. If the filter is white then ithas no oil on it. If it is red, then it is charged. EVERY display I have seen the filter is charged. Just the idea that it would have less air flow is blatant false advertising and I am sure they would have been sued already. I think they didn't want you to double charge the filter.

The one I fixed was broken for some time before I was able to fix it. I didn't realize what the problem was until I actually got into it. Several hundred miles won't be a problem.