mdjdc

I have the headlight/radiator support that I could cut out for you, but shipping would be kinda rough on that one. The marker light is really the last front end part I have left, unless you need the bumper minus the cover. The idiot I got it from cut that up, but the underneath is still good. Let me know what you need and make me an offer. Mike

If you need a right side marker light, let me know. I have one from a parts car and I don't need it. Mike

Often times, when the engine overheats, it cracks the head at the exhaust port. You won't notice the problem until you have the car back up and running and then you will see smoke and the repair was all for naught. If you want to fix the motor, I would suggest a thorough inspection of the heads when you disassemble the engine. If you need heads, I have a good set and a set of head gaskets that I can let you have for cheap. Good luck and don't run away from this car. It can be a good restorer if it is in good shape.

I think I'll take the car for a short ride tonight and see if the struts corrects. It does look higher on that side ow that it is down off the jack, so I thought it might be a strut problem. I also need to tell my friend that the rear struts are not in the greatest shape. He's beginning to get tire cupping, so the struts should be replaced anyway.

Yesterday I was replacing a rear knuckle for a friend and when I got the used one installed the rear tire has a decided cant to it. The top of the tire is decidedly further out than the bottom. The car is a 99 outback and the donor car is a 97 outback so I thought the knuckles would be the same. What did I do wrong? My mechanic says that he doesn't think there is enough adjustment in the lateral links to correct the problem. Any help would be appreciated as I need to do the other side and I don't want to run into the same problem. Thanks guys.

As long as you are using Subaru hg's I wouldn't worry too much about the others. Aftermarket works okay. As far as timing components, I have had great luck with the import experts. Their parts come from japan and are OEM certified. I don't use gaskets off ebay though, they start leaking in my experience. Get them locally and felpro is okay to use. Good Luck

I have a good known good pump if you are interested. I can have it cleaned and boxed up and to you over the weekend. I know new ones are fairly expensive.

Too bad you aren't closer. I'd be more than happy to fix the car for you and get you back on the road. Good luck. Mike

Dave: I remember that post also and as I recall it did turn out to be a seized cam.

Think this through. If the timing belt broke, there would no longer be any tension on the cam sprocket and therefore it couldn't shatter as a result of the broken belt. A much more likely scenario is that the cam seized and the cam sprocket shattered. You wil probably find that the belt is not broken. If that is the case, let me know as I have several of those heads sitting in my shed ready to be mounted to your block. Even if the heads were damaged due to a broken belt, a set of heads will be cheaper than rebuilding yours. If the cam seized, you won't be able to rehab the bad head. I hope I am wrong, but I wanted to give you another repair option; Where are you located exactly, the northeast is pretty big.

I just found out this weekend that the tank I have won't work. Some idiot put a hole in it that I didn't see until I dropped the tank. Sorry for the trouble. Mike

thanks man. I will look this weekend. I appreciate the help.

What, no help? Someone out there has to have an answer for me.

What parts do you need and for which engine? I just might have the parts in my shed waiting for a new home.

It is a 4x4 and now a D/R. Thanks Mike

I am having trouble finding the kick down relay in my 93 Loyale. The car has been converted to a manual, but the kick down relay is shorted and every time the accelerator is floored it blows a fuse. I need the replace the relay and I can't find the relay. I know where the solenoid is, but I can't find the relay. If I replace the relay I think I can solve the fuse problem. Mitchell says that it is behind the glove box, but I have about torn out the dash over there and I cannot find it. HELP Thanks

The converntion is to reverse the order.

I'm assuming you meant 3/8 breaker bar and you really need to use a 36" long 1/2 breaker. That will give you the leverage to break it loose.

you can call anytime today if you want tomorrow is good too

you can get one from www.subarupartsforyou.com I'm not sure of the price though. I personally wouldn't use a used one unless you know it is good. Too much trouble to replace and then find out it is bad too. A known good used one I would use.

You have the typical SHOC head gasket leak. It is external and the coolant got low and you got hot. Once you fill her back up you are fine. You just need to watch the level of coolant. By the way, these motors DO NOT have a bleeder screw on the radiator. It has a different design than the earlier models and doesn't need one.

If the issue doesn't go away with the fuse, then you have a failed duty C solenoid and it needs to be replaced. Not a bad job and one that you should be able to do in a few hours.

call after 12 okay? thanks

Call Sunday 804-393-0516

You aren't that far away from me and I will let you have the tank for 100.00 and we can install it right here and you can drive it back home. A new tank is around 400.00 and you still have to get the tank off of yours and reinstall the new one. Even if odd bits break. I have them on my donor car and we can replace anything that is rusted out. I can have mine out so that we don't waste time when yu get here and even if you had to stay over it is a great deal cheaper than what you are looking at right now.