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Just swap in the parts off your old tranny. If th AWD was working fine then you won't have any issues. A quick and simple fix. A few hours and you are done. You should be fine driving the car for a few days. The onw I fixed had been broken for a good while when I got into it and it is still running fine today over a year later.

Pull the distributor cap and mark the position of the rotor. Bump the ignition and see if the rotor is turning. Pull the fuel line from the filter and see if the pump is pushing fuel. Today's gas sucks and having it sit for six months may have locked up the pump. I'm not sure if lack of fule will stop the spark, but I would definitely check for fuel. I just did a friends car and replaced the pump. It started right up, but after 24 hours the pump was locked due to the fuel. I rapped on it and it started working again. Drained the tank and filled with new fuel and no problems any more. Check all of the fuses and the fusable links. Listen to the advice on the board or you will spend a lot of time chasing ghosts and getting frustrated. Good luck

If you decide not to fix her and you have the high rise center console, I would love to have it. Just asking before anyone else does. Personally, I hope she is fixed and back on the road soon. Mike

You can do it the right way. Just lift the car and drop the rear cross member. You may have to drop the rear of the tank, but you do not have to detach any lines or plugs, not even to drop the cross member. Sqirm the new line into place and atttach it to the junction bloc and you are done. If you want good used preformed lines with the junction block, I have them. let me know if you are interested. If you fix it right the first time you will be more comfortable and safer. I, personally, so not like rigging brakes. I want them the way they were designed.

Nipper: If you really want to replace the cable, I have a good ne on my parts car and I have a good set of the shoes too. Let me know if you have any interest in the parts I have. Mike

The clunk you heard could very well have been the transfer clutch basket shearing off the shaft. I had a car do that and since there was no power to the rear wheels, there was no torque bind. If I were you, I would dig into the extension housing and look at the parts. I would want to know what I was dealing with, just so as not to damage a good tranny. The entire process tokk me 2.5 hours and that was on jack stands with manual tools. Good Luck

I have used K&N filters on my subies for nearly 15 years and I have never gotten a code for the MAF. The filter requires good cleaning and oiling to specs. Over oiling will lead to fouling of the MAF. I have enjoyed the improvement in performance and fuel mileage. I'm not endorsing the filter over others, just fiving my experience. It really helped with performance with my EA82 vehicles and I have continued to use them with my new gen cars. If they were contributing to engine breakdown, I don't think they would still be in business, nor do I think that race cars would be equipped with them. When you look at the comparison of the two oiled filters in the test, you must attribute some of the color to the oil. The secondary filter was right atop the primary and some of the oil is going to aresol onto the secondary filter, leading to a darker color. In the old days oil bath filters were the norm and only discarded due to inconvience. Just my 2 cents

The easiest way to get at the plugs is to unbolt one of the motor mounts and jack up that side of the motor. You will then be able to get your socket in there for removel and reinstallation. Not a fun job, so use the good NGK platinium plugs. They are rated for 100K so you won't have to do them for some time.

Nice car. The speedo issueis a problem with one of the contacts. Open up the back of the speedo and you will find one of the solder joints bad. Just resolder it and you are good to go. One of my friends had the same issue and she fixed it very easily. As far as the gas guage goes, try the techron. If that doesn't work let me know and I can send you the secondary sender out of one of my parts cars. Known good. Mike

How's 50.00 plus shipping? What do you have to barter?

I have one that is free spinning. Let me know if you want it.

I am asking these questions now, but I haven't gotten the car yet. I am looking for an easier fix once I pick it up. Gary when you say the inhibitor switch, do you mean the neutrl safety switch, or is it different? I figure it might be an electrical problem and that is why I posed the question and I appreciate the heads up. If anyone else has some suggestions please hit me with them.

Sorry. Automatic trans

I have the opportunity to buy a 98 legacy with 130k on it for cheap. The issue is that it won't shift out of 1st gear. I am prepared to swap in another tranny, but I figured I'd check with you all to see if there is something I should check before jumping to the swap. Thanks Guys

Use the SOHC gaskets and you will be fine. There is plenty of clearance and you will end up with a tad more compression. The engine I built was nice and peppy and my buddy is very happy with it. Be sure to rebuild the oil pump while you are there and you won't have to deal with it later.

I used a DOHC block to build a SOHC motor for a friend of mine and it runs like a champ. Go for it and good Luck

This is just me, but I would reseal the engine you have. I am more inclined to keep the car stock so that if I want to sell it it isn't a hassle explaining it to the new owner. Don't go the full rebuild, that is unnecessary. Get a set of Subaru HG's and all the seals necessary for the project, a water pump and timing kit. You can get the water pump and timing kit off ebay. Reseal the engine and be on your way. My thought is, that if the car is in such good shape, the owner probably didn't overheat it too bad. He/she was caring for the car very well and this probably sidelined the car due to concerns of total failure. I can routinely get the necessary parts for around 300 and then you just have your labor. Go for it and have some fun.

You won't get a CEL unless the car runs for a certain amount of time. I have done the stupid and started without the MAF plujgged in and didn't get a CEL. Your MAF is a wire filament type and it may have been damaged a bit prior to cleaning and the apray just finished it off. Take it off and look at the filaments. See if they are broken, if so, then it will have to be replaced. My thinking is, if it was running before the cleaning, then something broke. You have already checked all of the hoses, so that is not the problem and your only other possibility is the MAF itself. I have a couple of them laying around, so let me know if you need one. Mike

You need to google tire size calculator as your speedo is going to be off. The calculator will tell you by how much.

There is one race with two bearings, an inner and an outer. You will see what I mean when you get them. There are two seals on the inboard side and one on the outside. yes, I used the type that you hit with a hammer and it worked just fine. Remember to freeze them and it will go much easier. The main difference with the front is that you drive the race out from the outside to the inside, but that is all. I think you will be just fine. PM me if you have any questions and I will give you my phone number so we can talk Mike

You don't need a puller set to do the rears. If you can get the bottom pinch bolt off, you have tackled the biggest problem. Make sure you use the updated roller bearings. Use a slide hammer to remove the hub and the snap ring that holds the race in is right there. Take that out and drive the race out from the inside of the knuckle. (I am assuming that you are going to do this on the car.) While you are doing all of this place the new bearing set in the freezer. That shrinks the new race a bit and makes it easier to install. Use a bearing race/seal driver set. ( basically a punch set with discs of varying sizes to dirve races and seals in) You can get one at most auto parts stores for around 30. Make sure that you have the inner bearing greased and installed in the race before you drive the race in because there is an inner lip that holds that bearing in place. Install the outer race and snap ring. Install the inner seals and the outer too. Carefully line up the hub and drive it into place using a large hammer and socket. It will slide in with a little finesse. It will not completely seat until pulled in with the axle, but at that point you are done. I just did ano outback the same way and it worked like a dream. My mechanic coached me and I felt very comfortable in all steps. Not a bad job and due to rust issues it too me 6 hours for both sides, but I ended up having to remove the knuckes due to the rust issues. Good Luck

The best solution is as everyone has said, a 2.2 swap. You will get a good one from a Junk Yard off a car that has been wrecked. That means the engine was running at the time of the accident. An expensive lesson for you both. Make sure you teach her to constantly search the guages and if the temp is going up to STOP. Heat is an engine killer as you know now. My wife did not have a father to teach her the basics of auto care. I had to take her away from the dealerships ( stealerships) and now that we have been married 21 yrs she calls me and tells me of any noises the car is making. I really appreciate the heads up and that way we can prevent serious issues. My youngest daughter is beginning to drive now and she is hyper vigilant about car maintainence and any noises the car makes. We built her car together, so she has been involved from the very beginning. Women cannot rely on men to monitor their cars and today one cannot aford to use the dealership for everything. Good luck with the repair and I definitely would ressurect that car. With a new engine it will last many more years. Sorry for what you are going thru.

If you need them, I ave a rear wiper and the right marker light.

As I said, I have a set of good heads. The crack between the valves is normal and does not effect the engine function at all. A crack in the exhaust port goes into the water jacket and you will not be able to go far without carrying extra coolant with you and the smell from the exhaust is sickening. Been there and done that, so I speak from a position of experience.

will do