stephenw22

On my '85 that was the code you got when the engine was running. (letting you know that the car is ON)

If I remember from reading all these threads, the ARP price was based on an 11x1.25 pitch, which seems like a very odd size to me. 10x1.25, 11x1.5, or 12x1.25 might be more common threading, and bring the price down.

There have already been a couple of threads in the last month dealing with this. Look them up, and if the fixes suggested there don't help, then we can try to help you more.

Thanks!

Hi, I need to cut a couple of keys for the Hornet. The keys I have a pretty worn-down and I'd like to cut new ones by code. Unfortunately, the code isn't on either of the keys I have, and I can't find it anywhere. The local Subaru dealer says that there's nothing they can do for me. Is there any way of finding the key code? I don't want to have to pop a lock and take it to a locksmith.

What about drilling and re-tapping the block for different size threads? If we could change the threading to a more standard size, wouldn't it bring the cost down?

If they sold them in Europe, you might be able to find one in English. If the Sambar was an Asia-only product, you might not be so lucky. I'd keep my eyes on ebay and maybe ask on the aussie boards. A lot of used japanese cars end up over in AUS. p.s. - who are you getting the car from? japanoid? I've been poking around, looking at jap imports.

If you had the dash apart, you're probably missing a vacuum line connection somewhere. You'll have to get the dash covers off again to get to the vacuum connections. If you have a vacuum pump and gauge, it will make troubleshooting much easier. My heater controls weren't working this summer, and I had to troubleshoot the system. It turned out to be the little gold-colored surge tank that was hooked up backwards. The one-way valve in the tank was blocking the engine vacuum from getting to the controls. 2 hoses flipped around, and everything worked perfectly.

For an LPG conversion, do I need to get the heads re-done with stellite seats? I've heard that this is typical when converting to an LPG-only setup.

155/80R13's are all I buy these days. Pizza cutters ROCK. (At least in my climate/road conditions, they are the best.) On mud in the spring and fall, they dig through the first few inches of mush to get to the hard clay underneath. In winter, they cut through the fluff and slush to get to the hard pack. My soobs that have 155/80s handle way better than ones with wide floaty tires.

I always use the combustion triangle - a fire needs: fuel, air, ignition source. Air - is the car getting air to the cylinders - are both timing belts turning? Ignition - test the coil to disty cap wire and see if sparks are being produced. check again at the plug wires to the cap, and the plug wires to the plugs. If possible, pull a couple of plugs and see if theyare actually sparking. Fuel - dump a little gas down the carb throat. Turn the engine over and see if it runs. Check fuel pressure at the carb, or at least fuel flow. If you don't have a pressure tester, you can just take the fuel feed line from the pump and put it into a big jar or small jerry can. Crank the engine over and see if fuel is being pumped into the can.

When I resealed my engine and restarted it for the first time, I also had zero oil pressure. I tested the oil pressure sender, and somehow it had dried out or something, and it stopped working. I replaced it with another sender from a parts car, and now it works fine.

you'll probably need to clear the ecu codes. check the subaru repair manual for instructions.

The lash adjusters should all be super stiff, not squishy at all. If there are squishy ones, then you need to replace them with used/rebuilt ones.

Another vote for a slow vacuum leak somewhere in the system. Vacuum from the little canister to the heater controls should be staying relatively constant, regardless of engine load, and even with the engine off. A handheld vacuum pump and vacuum gauge will help troubleshoot and find leaks quickly. I picked one up a few months ago for $25, and it just helped me figure out why the heater controls weren't working on the Hornet. It turned out that the hoses going to the vacuum canister were hooked up backwards, and there was no vacuum getting to the controls at all.

I just went to the electronics store and bought some 4W, 68 Ohm carbon-film resistors. I used one in the egr solenoid, and one in the purge control solenoid. A ceramic resistor would be ideal, but we'll see how long these ones last. Right now, they're just stuck into the wiring harness clips. If I get around to it, i'll crimp them in permanently and use a little heat shrink to make it look nice. 120 Ohms might be a little too high, but I'm not sure. I think what the service manual said was that 50-100 ohms was "normal". Resistors are cheap, though, so you can get a few different types and see what works best.

I fixed my code 34 with a 68 ohm resistor. (No emissions standards in Saskatchewan, Canada)

I was just fixing my heater controls this last weekend. You have to take off that large trim section that surrounds the cluster and holds a few of the heater vents. If the heater linkage is jammed, it's probably that the plastic frame of that component has broken. Of the 5 Soobs I've owned, 4 of them have had the same problem, to a similar degree. To fix it, you might need to bust out some epoxy and fiberglass tape to reinforce the area around the break. Also, while you're there, it would be a good time to lubricate the control line to the heat/cold setting.

That's a sign of a failing regulator. If you're courageous, you can replace it yourself, but otherwise you might just want to grab a 'new' one from the junkyard.

From Wikipedia The coefficient of linear expansion for aluminum is 23x10^-6 m/C The coefficient for iron is 12x10^-6 m/C When it gets really hot, the aluminum will expand more than the cast iron sleeve, and it could get loose. That's likely how they got it in there in the first place. Why did the bearing fail? Did it overheat? That would be the first clue as to what caused the sleeves to rotate.

You can also use silicone spray lube from an automotive supply store. We would use that on all out inner tubes and toboggans when we were younger, in order to go faster down the hill.

It would be worth your while to pick up helicoil kits for your car. Most bolts are either M6x1.0, M8X1.25, or M10X1.25. Three kits will cover just about everything.

I agree. There are times my cars show 12v at the voltmeter on the dash, but a multimeter on the battery shows 14v. Depending on your idle speed the accessories you run at idle, it could also be bringing down the alt voltage. I usually keep my idle speed near 1000rpm, just because it seems to keep the alt voltage more stable at idle.

So you have a pressure gauge that works, AND you have an oil light that's always on? I've only seen one or the other, not both. The oil filter threads on to the oil pump. It's on the bottom of your engine, at the front. If the ECS light is coming on, you'll have to check for engine codes as well. There's a section in the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual about checking and interpreting engine codes.

I've used the hood prop a couple of times to open my wagons. On the Power Wagon, it had a power tailgate, so I'd pry the window open, and stick the hood prop in to hit the rear tailgate button and unlock it. Another time, I locked myself out of the RustBucket. Luckily, I had all of the interior door panels removed, so I was able to see my way into the lock internals. I stuck the prop down the rear drivers' door and managed to pry the lock open.