Uberoo

it would have been one hell of a lot easier to go wit DR 5 speed. :eek: It should look very sweet nontheless.

throttle is your friend.use lots and lots of throttle.they call it the loud pedal for a reason.

what cars have the dual range transmission?4 or 5 speed?Im looking at a 1994 4x4 loyale with a 5 speed.is that a 5 speed DR?

trade?

just put an add in the local money saver.Im selling it for $800 or best offer.sad.Now I just have to wash it(first time ever) and remove all non factory parts,weber included.

soccerball rims!!!

"hot steamy fun..." ok:lol:

how much is a comparable EA82 wagon that runs worth?I would chose ea81 for the reliablity,but I dont really like the tail end of EA81 wagons...or I suppose I could go with a hatch.

Idaho doesnt have testing.

the machine shop would have said something if heads were cracked.as for the milkshake.I have brand new intake gaskets,brand new HG,brand,brand new valve cover gaskets.so Im just gonna save up for a new motor unless someone has a known good set of EA81 heads I could have for $0. hell at present Im considering just selling the brat and buying a damn nice wagon.then I could take friends 4x4ing... BTW how much is a 1984 brat worth with some rust around rear fenderwells,some rust on lower doorsill,and some various dents/dings.interior is ok,drivers seat is torn.and motor doesnt run.thinking of listing it for 700 or best offer.

for the hassle go with an EJ series swap...

ok the headgasket(supposedily failed) on my brat.so I replace both headgaskets along with having the heads resurfaced.same symtoms...so I pulled the left side head because a lot of milkshake was coming from there.it didn't seat.so I replaced it.I adjusted the valves.I made sure everything was torqued to the right specs.it still shoot milkshake out of vent covers...Im just gonna save up and pull a ej22 at pull and save... what pisses me off is if I didnt spend the money on resurface and parts I could have spent and extra 10 and gotten a motor from pull and save... grr

I know that honda MTF works great.

the studs are 1/2". drill 9/16" then get a 3/4" 60* countersink.

fantastic,I pulled the right head and found what very well could have been the issue.the gasket didn't seat in the middle of the pushrod gallery so didnt seat in one of the coolant holes in the middle of the head.it seems that special tool for for tightening/torqueing the first and middle bolt is essential.in the areas however where it sealed boy of boy did it seal.so on the left head im just going to really tighten the first bolt...any chance I might be able to get a replacement?the damn thing lasted 10 minutes..

yes on intake gaskets and yes on cleaning block.although maybe not well enough.if the block needs to cleaned better can I reuse the headgaskets?

got my brat running again. I had prestone radatior cleanser in there trying to clean out coolant passageways.but anyway my brat will not idle at all.I have to hold the choke about 98% closed just for it to run at sub 2k.otherwise its at 3.5K rpm. on top of that I bliped the trhottle to 6500 rpm then it started erupting milkshake out of the right side breather.I undid the radiator cap to check for bubbles,I got a geyser of water coming out at low RPM(choke really closed) Note: its not erupting when its trying to idle at 3.5K only when reved up.the oil I just put in is milkshake. I dunno I dont think I need to retorque the heads because the gaskets say not to.I was hoping this was going to fix it.Im so frustrated right now that I don't want to spend another cent on it. after everything was milled and new headgaskets were put on it runs far worse.... at least a plus is that it revs freely from 3.5 to 6K.it wouldnt do that before... please help...what should I do?I still could get a 84 wagon as a trade,and to be honest it seems worth it because it runs and has low miles with very little leaks...the brat is cool but it is a constant headache.and between hvaing a wagon that runs that I wouldnt care about offroading as oposed to the brat...

I tried cranking it after everthings all done.my battery was low but the starter made this horrible screcing noise.Can the starter crank over the extra compression?

id race it. OFFROAD....

ARRRRR!!! for the last two hours Ive been fighting with the little metal tube that goes between the intake manifold and the right head.What does it do?Can I just plug both ends?please help.!!!!

does the subaru suffer from a lack of enough air or fuel at high rpms.so in that way it can't support combustion?at 7.5K and above?or are the valves floating by then so no power?I do like the subi motors and I probally would never rev an engine to 8k but theoretically it should rev that high given its stroke.also the saab I mentioned that reves to 8k doesnt have an torque by that time either.the saab is also built for low/mid range power...

what is the compression ratio if the heads were milled .011"?The heads for my brat had to be milled eleven thousands to be flat.they must have been really warped.

low down torque is nice but 2.64" stroke and 3.62 bore is an odd combo for torque...hey does anyone make stroker kits for subarus?

i thought the motor really didnt rev past 6k?saab B202 have alot more stroke.Almost 1/2" more and they could easily rev to 7k assuming you replaced the lifters and the computer.8k if you put in solid lifters and all that.so whats holding subies back? they have solid lifters(some)

why is it that the EA81 and EA82 motors only rev to about 6000 rpm?They have a very short stroke and are horizontaly opposed so they should balance really well.so why the low redline?