pamike

if it was wheel balance wouldn't the car shake even without the brakes on? the car rides smooth and drives strait until the brakes are used. if it was a loose bolt i would think that it would have been tightened when the new pads were put on.

i guess the car started doing it, then he replaced the pads and rotors to see if that was the problem, but their was no change. could the abs system cause this.

new rotors were put on and their was no change. it feels like the whole car is doing it not just one wheel. the guy we got it from said something about checking the proportioning valve. it feels like it takes a little more force on the pedal to stop it than normal

at a local parts store.

on a 90 legacy ls. the power light flashes me a duty solonoid b code. the car drives and shifts great. the car has new brakes and rotors but it shakes when the brakes are put on. i can feel the vibration in the pedal also. it does not pull to one side. it has abs.

i put a new oxygen sensor in because of a check engine light. now with the new one in, the car starts with no light, after about a minute the light comes on. then stays on for a little while and then goes out. it doesn't do this every time. what could cause it.

how do i figure it out. do i take the miles divided by gallons.

thanks. i'll give it a try sometime.

is changing one on a 90 legacy a hard job. do they come out easy or are they stuck in there pretty good.

try putting a board on the edge of the tire(close to the rim). then drive up it with a car.

do you mean the main on/off switch? the light stays on until i turn it back off.

i just looked at it and it looks like i have to take the dash apart to get to the screws. i can't get to the plugs. the inhibiter relay, thats one of the relays screwed to the module right. is their a way to check it at the relay plug. i checked the 2 relays before and they worked. did anyone find out how to read the trouble codes yet. like i said, i found the plug and the test probe wire and pluged it in and turned the key on and nothing happened. what light flashes the codes.

brake pedal switch [1/2] [3/4] 1=.2v 2=12v 3=.003v 4=.005v

the garage checked it out and they said the sensors were good. they found a few trouble codes but i don't remember what they were. they did find some wiring that was chewed up by a mouse. they repaired the wiring. they drove it and it seemed fine. we drove around for a while then and it didn't come back on yet. we'll see if it comes back on. they found codes 11, 22, 27, 28. they checked the wheel sensors and the gap and they said it was ok

should i do this with the cruise on.

i found the test probe wire. it was taped to 2 plugs. a 4 pin flat plug with 2 wires in it on 2 and 3 it is black. a yellow plug with about 7 wires 3 on top 4 on bottom.

look at this wiring. it shows a 15 on the module and it says yb. it shows it going to the brake switch. is this the wire that should have 12v. could i just test it on the brake switch. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-2_cruise_diag.jpg

i'll have to try that. does anyone have a list of what the codes mean.

it comes on while driving. but not everytime.

it's my girlfriends moms car. the abs light comes on sometimes. she's getting it checked at the subaru dealer on tuesday. if it's the sensor i'm going to the junk yard to get one. are wagon sensors the same as sedans.

how hard is it to change a wheel sensor on a 96 legacy.

i don't think there is any trick, just plug it in and read the codes. if there are no codes then i don't think the light should come on unless there is something wrong. are you sure the guy is doing it right. take it somewhere else and try it. alot of auto parts stores will read them for free.

where is pin 15. what should the voltage be.

yes the fuses are good

where are the diagnostic connecters located. i don't think i've ever seen a cruise light. do you have a list of the codes so i know what it's telling me.