mellow65

UPDATE UPDATE ok spent the better part of the day tinkering with the roo and this is what I found. I went to the JY and got like 4 temp sensors 3 TPSs some other random crap. I tested all the temp sensor and put the one in that was closest to what the service manual said i tested all the TPSs and the one that was in my car was a tad odd so I replaced it with one that read good. Oh and to anyone that says they are easy to replace doesn't have AC. I cleaned and tested my air flow sensor. hell I even tested my idle air control valve like the one guy said. and last but not least replaced my completely dead O2 sensor. Ok here is where I am at. when the car is cold it still has the hesitation pretty bad but only when you try to get on it. if you accerlerate slowly there is no bogging. now when it gets warm it for the most part disappear, but then will come back at the worst time like when trying to pass someone. So whats left. Some one recommended a new fuel pump. But dang at $160 that is what I am hoping to avoid. My next thing is to try some better plug wires. I have had problems in the past with the cheap ones causing hesitation. Any more input would be great. Oh and if anyone wonders, i have done plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter also.

does any one have a preference over what size to use. they offer 7, 8 and 8.5 wires for the loyale. You know other then the bigger is better theory any pluses to the bigger ones.

Hey i saw that some people had some magnecor wires on there EA82 I was wondering where to get them or if they were for something else and just made to work on the EA82 thanks

mine did this too, just ended up being the switch that controlled the locks. I replaced it with one from the JY and worked great after that.

is this aggressive enough for you http://www.subesports.com/products/cat/Tires/brand/Michelin+Rally/prodID/810

I got it thanks

I PMed you

OK with the little trouble shooting that I can do right now, you know with all the floods going on right now, I did a little here and there checking. I unplugged the AC pump to be completely sure that it wasn't that. And I have now noticed that it does it more cold then warm, or it's more abrupt when cold then warm. It's still there when it's warm just not as bad. Also as an in the car way of checking the TPS I would put it in a higher gear and slowly move the throttle from closed to full open and there isn't one place in throttle position that makes it happen, it seems to be more of a combo of throttle and rpm when it does it. As soon and this blasted rain lets up I will get under the hood and start checking more out.

Hmmm that's a good thought too, well I really can't do much checking till this damn rain lets up. Been crazy out here. I am going to check all that stuff as soon as I get a chance.

I thought that only did something at idle

Done all the normal stuff except the pcv Is there a way to clean the MAF sensor, I think I remember reading about some product that was a MAF cleaner or use something like brake cleaner. What's a CTS? And it has no codes right now, that is from just blinking them out, not hooking it up to anything.

I timming was dead on. I'll check the TPS when the rain lets up here in the next day or so. And it's all the time, but not all the time. Sometimes it runs great and strong then others it runs like a dog, either way I can still drive it just a little slower.

Ok I have a 5 speed 4x4 93 Loyale, it runs absolutely great except for one thing. There is a hesitation when accelerating. It feels just like when the AC pump flips on but i know its not that because it happens when that is turned off. It's not like a cylinder it cutting out and runs rough, it just losses power. I just did a full tune up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, the whole shebang. And its still there. I have ran into this exact same problem, but was on my mazda miata. Crappy plug wire would cause hesitation under acceleration. I swapped out for some quality plug wires and it went away. I just wonder if any one has ran into this in the Loyales. thanks

genraly when you floor cars this puts them into a flood mode and doesn't pump gas so you can clear out the flooded engine. Just a thought.

I took my trim off it was just going to crush the the plastic anyways, that and you get a better fit to the car well thats what I figured anyways. And you shouldn't have any problems with the gutter mounts for strength, i stood in my safari rack and bounced up and down in there and i'm not lite by any means and its still there.

If I hook it strait to the pump the fan would be on only when the pump is on. When the pressure switch hits its desired pressure it would shut off the pump which in turn would turn off the fan, which is not what I would like. I want the fan on all the time if the AC or defrost button is pressed. Well I will do some more searching. Maybe in the mean time I will just hook the relay up to a switch in the cab that way if I have the AC or defrost on I would just turn it on.

And next on "As the motor turns"...............................

So there is no outside pressure switch to control the pump? So does the pump have its own built in pressure switch?

Go with a yellow top rather then a red top. It's a deep cycle battery but it handles start cars with no problems. I had one in my toyota PU for years and never had any problems with it starting, and I had a good system and lights and winch. And they will warranty it if some how you fry it using it with a system and some big lights, red tops they say they wont. On the alternator I have heard of guys running GM stuff but haven't seen a write up about putting one in a EA82, just the EA81s. But I'm sure someone else could chime in on that.

I am wanting to remove my mechanical fan and replace it with a second electric fan. I know the first one is controlled by a temp switch and turns on or off depending on the temp of the engine. The second one I want to operate only when the AC it turned on to keep air flow over the condenser. Has anyone ever figured out where to tap into a power that is only on when the AC is on to operate a relay to run the second fan.

I hate the U pull its around here any more. They barely keep the cars separated in domestic and foreign anymore. They used to keep the cars by makes, now you can find a subaru next to a toyota with a VW on the other side. Now they added some environmental fee to your final price, so not only is every thing expensive, they are tacking a fee on just for buying anything. So I took an old jacket and made it so I can cram so much stuff in it yeah it's bad but I buy their over priced yearly pass and damn it this year they didn't even give me my hat. Ok sorry for the hijack im done venting.

If I remember right its a roll pin

+1 on one and not on the other, i had one that would run when you turn it to on and one that didn't and only came on when you cranked the motor. But now that I think about it it was on an older FI subaru so maybe they changed that when they went to the Loyale name. dont know its a thought. Check the resistor that is mounted to the coil bracket. that was the culprit of two no sparks for me. Not sure what the book says its supposed to be, but it seems when they go bad they have infinite resistance and the good ones have some sort of reading. Also the ignition control module, it the only thing in your distributor, Once again I don't know the proper way of testing it, my book doesn't say, but I just keep a couple of good ones around just in case. And how I test them is have a spare distributor and mount the new ignition control module in it plug it in and turn it by hand, it's just the easy way to check for me. good luck these no start things can suck big time

Seems really high, I just bought the same thing but in a newer loyale for $600. Just keep your search on I'm sure you will track something down.

That's cool you got a spot to keep her safe from the salt, but it's also sad that a subaru needs to be put away right before the snow comes. And this is why I love the west coast, i'll take rock chips over rust anyday.