Hotshot

First question: What do subaru turbos use as far as cooling? As far as I can tell, it has oil lines running from the block to each turbo I would assume for lubrication, while there are other lines running to the turbos from a small reservoir on the top left side of the engine. I assume that that would be standard coolant to cool the turbos? There are two fittings on the top of the reservoir, one is a return and the other looks like a pickup. I'm not 100% sure where they go. My best guess so far is that they hook up to the turbo radiator that I have for it. Is there something similar to a hayes manual for JDM stuff?

Alright, I went and bought myself a mostly completed EJ20R twin turbo swapped legacy. on the truck on the way home Profile shot Interior Awesome folding rear seats. They go completely flat. And the reason this is getting posted here. As far as I can tell, the wiring for the ECU is already mostly completed, but I need to find the connector from the rear harness, and sit down with wiring diagrams and a soldering iron. I still need to find a set of fans for the radiator that I have for it and get that put in, I need a fuel pump to keep up with the engine. Right now I'm in the process of trying to figure out where several loose hoses are supposed to go, particularly all the vaccum hoses that control the operation of the two turbos. I'm know that I am in a bit over my head with this, as I have never owned a turbo before and I now have two of them, but I figure it will be a learning experience. I'll keep this thread updated with whats going on with it.

As far as I know, bodies were identical from 95-99. Someone else back me up on this please.

I know that some of the guys over on NASIOC with accessports were running tunes specially for maximizing fuel economy, and some of the numbers that they were getting were pretty surprising. I remember that one guy with an extremely conservative tune on a 2.0 WRX was claiming 36-40 mpg.

Of course, I believe he also has a 1.5L engine to go with it.

I wouldn't mind one of those TT legacys, but I'm afraid it still technically belongs to my granddad, and other family members have had their eye on it for a while. I'm still not 100% sure what to do with it, whether just fix it up enough to wheel it, or restore it and try to keep it clean. I haven't been home enough to work on it since school started, but this summer it is going to get a lot of attention. While it does start and run, there is no interior, and the entire floor pretty much needs to be replaced. Then it needs tires and probably some suspension work. I feel that as a college freshman with limited income, this project is a little over my head, but I am planning on starting on it anyways and I'll just see what happens.

I really think that the EJ25 has a much worse reputation than is really deserved around here. Granted, there was a major head gasket design flaw for the 96-99's, and they are all interference engines. However, if the head gaskets have been properly replaced, and the timing belt maintenance is kept up with, I can't see any reason why an EJ25 couldn't potentially last as long as an EJ22. There is a noticeable difference in power between the two, and I don't feel that the reliability of the EJ22 can justify putting one in a vehicle any larger than an impreza. Just my two cents.

I wonder who it was the was conducting the tests. A lot of them did seem like they were set up so that the subaru was facing its weakest opponent on each task.

The new ones don't come in any interesting colors at all, at least at my dealership. Its about the blandest parking lot full of cars I think I have ever seen. Choices are basically silver, black, tan, or gray.

Last night I had a dream where I got to test drive a pearl blue 04 WRX sedan that has been sitting at my dealer for over a year because it is an auto. It was still pretty fun, because I ended up taking it to some non-existent parking lot, set up some cones, and drove like it was an autoX. Then I woke up Next time I hope I dream up some snow to play in.

All the time. Including one last night, actually.

Two reasons why it won't work: First, it's not the outer plastic lens that creates the cutoff pattern. There is some sort of a piece actually inside the projector housing that does this, between the bulb and the projector lens. I'll see if I can fit a camera down in there when I replace all the front grill clips here in a bit. Edit: Picture Second reason is because the lenses on my original lights were so bad that they where the motivation behind me getting the new projectors. It got to the point where it felt like I could have done better with a flashlight, and I partially blame them for the deer I hit a few months ago. I tried clearing them up once a few months ago, but they are pretty much beyond all help. Besides the aesthetic appeal of the projectors, the other reason why I got them was because of how much cheaper they were than new USDM headlights. I paid 150 shipped from japan to my door for the pair, while I had trouble finding USDM lights for under 120 each, plus shipping.

I suppose I need to just suck it up and admit how incredibly wrong I was, about pretty much everything. I think that OB99W pretty much caught me on everything: I managed to mix up the ground for the high beams with the power input the first time around, and sadly enough, I didn't even know that the projector was the low beam. I finally did realize what wires I had doing what, and got it straightened out and working the way it should. This is what the wires ended up looking like: From what I have seen so far, it is impossible to "align" them to act like LHD lights. While the high beams don't appear to have any bias towards one side or the other, the cut off pattern for the projectors is opposite what it should be in the US. The beam does something like this: __________________ .............................\________________________ While it does raise questions on safety, there is maybe only 1 degree difference of hight between the two sides of the beam, and I had a friend check and make sure that they were low enough to not be obnoxious. I'll take some pictures to illustrate. When looking into the rear of the projector from where the bulb goes, the piece that cuts off the beam is clearly visible. I might look into seeing if it is possible to get to that piece and either modify it or replace it with another that would give it a LHD beam pattern. And this is the final product.

OB99W: I really wish I had seen that writeup a few weeks ago when I started trying to figure out how to make this work. I went ahead and wired it up like the link showed, and I ran out to the car to hook it up and test it. Seems to work fine, with the projectors/city lights lit on low beams, and everything lit up with the high beams, which works for me. Tomorrow I will have to go out and scape enough ice off of the car to where I can actually install them. Pics to come soon. Thanks for the help everyone!

By "headlights" I was referring to the JDM projectors I am attempting to install. I am pretty sure that the blue wire is supposed to be powered to turn on the blue light bulb when the high beams are grounded (black wire). While I can understand most of the stuff in the diagram, I think it might be a bit more than what I needed. The thing that was confusing me most was that because the JDM headlights have three separate bulbs (4 including the turn signal) while the USDM headlights use a single bulb for both low and high beams. The thing that helped me the most was just knowing that it was a constant input from 1 wire with the grounds changing that controls the low/hi beams. I do know how to use a multimeter. In fact, right after hearing about the switching grounds, I went back out to my car and checked which leads do what. I feel pretty confidant that I understand how to make it work now, but there is just one thing I am wondering about that I haven't been able to discern from the diagram: when turning the high beams on, does the ground for the low beams open up? Thanks for all the help!

I really appreciate you letting me know it before I went and found out the hard way. I'm not sure why I just assumed it would be that way, but when looking at the headlights, it makes a whole lot more sense now that I know it switches grounds . While the incoming wires in the "diagram" I threw together should now be completely disregarded, the wiring for the headlights themselves is correct, down to what color the wires actually are. So does this sound like it would work better? +12v to red, blue pins Ground for low beams to white Ground for high beams to black

The headlights are JDM projectors that I believe came off of a 96 legacy, and are going on my 97 outback. I'll put some pictures up when I get them in and wired up, hopefully tomorrow. BTW, your WRX looks awesome! Sounds like the best idea so far if it works. I would like to make sure before I break out the soldering iron.

I suppose so, unless someone else knows for sure exactly what the blue light is supposed to be. If I can't find an answer, I suppose I'll just stick it in parallel with the high beams.

Make the headlights work. I apologize for the crappy paint diagram, but this is the dilemma I am facing at the moment. My current headlight are fogged up pretty much beyond all repair, so I picked up a pair of projectors off of ebay. I figured that it would basically be two circuits, one for the high beams, and one for the low, but it is a little different that what I had expected. The square in the middle of the diagram is the connector that I have to work with. (strangely enough, it perfectly matches the headlight relays) So, any suggestions on how to wire these? I have h4 adapters so that I can leave the stock headlight wiring in the outback unmolested, and I would prefer to leave the wiring on the headlights the same way if possible. I'm also not sure whether the small blue light is supposed to be on with high beams, low beams, or both. Anyone overseas know how it is supposed to be?

I'm really liking it. But does it really need to have 1 exhaust tip per cylinder?

I know I have heard several people here say that lightly holding the brake while hitting the gas causes it to act sort of like an LSD. Maybe thats what happened? I'm sure someone else can explain it much better than I can.

How common is this? My car is doing the same thing, but it didn't start until after I replaced one of the axles with a factory reman to try and solve a different problem. While on the lift, I put it in gear to get it turn the axle to see if it was together smoothly, and then I hit the brakes to stop the tires, and put it back in park. Unfortunately, the ABS kicked in and it wasn't quite the smoothest shift ever, and I made a guess that it was a tranny mount, but im not sure.

Can't wait to see what they look like on the leggy. My brother has one exactly like yours and is thinking about putting WRX wheels on it also because the hubcaps are pretty beat up.

Any chance at all of getting one of these through a VA inspection?

'97 Limited, with the holder here