daeron

I feel the same way about alot of your points. Sometimes American culture turns around and lets you see what sort of consumption really goes on in our underbelly.. our mindsets have always been to consume until we must produce more, and it ends up setting up an effect rather like a shrimp on a treadmill where we all consume as much as we can, to necessitate producing as much as we can, just for consumption.. BUT, in a world with free will, and in a nation with freedom of choice, what we do with out cars is up to us. Don't presume the Derby is just about destruction, either..more about fun. By the way, Loyale 2.7.... did you notice that alot of those fotos in the album were "Before" and not "after"??? that wagon was pretty well gone. However, in general, I agree with the points you brought up. HEYYY... you live in south america, hmm?? maybe we could set up some kinda, import/export program.. I bring down subarus, and come back up with.. well, what? eheheheheh.....

dude, have you ever worked with a weber??? it is SOOOO much easier than damn near any other downdraft carb on the planet, and its super-tunable.. people EVERYWHERE with all sorts of cars have oodles of experience with them, so "help" is not an issue, EVER.. they made about 239578478698239 of them so there are parts EVERYWHERE.... and i mean, you can just pick and choose your needles, jets, and venturis on the fly.. its more malleable than any EA-82 EFI system shy of megasquirt... My impression has not been that the hitachi is such an awful carb, but primarily that the weber is just like, the carburetor from planet Krypton or something. NO carb (not solex, not S/U, not even a lawnmower carburetor) that i have EVER worked on was as simple as a weber. theyre practically toilet mechanisms with adjustable jetting

I really like the 6-point sockets for use WHENEVER possible, but 12-points are an invaluable tool as well. Anyone who hasn't formead an opinion yet needs to bear in mind the different properties of each.. the 12-point, you only need 30 degrees of motion for your wrench to turn (in tight spots, its easier) but the 6-point gives you more solid gripping surfaces on a tight, rusty, or beginning-to-round bolt.. and the 6 point is at almost ALL times less likely to round a bolt off than a 12-point. Also I would like to add.. Electrical repair tools!!! diagonal cutters, wire strippers, crimpers, and crimp-on connections.. Just In Case!!!!

I would call that a pretty good buy. we arent out in the PNW here, but its always a good idea to knock at least 100 off the asking pri ce, or try to negotiate down that much.. sometimes you gotta say 550 to actually get 600, but thats up to you. _I_ for one, am NOT that much of a haggler, so I've got no tips for you.. but for a car under a grand, most people ask for about 100 more than they will take as for the poswer windows, NOT a horrible thing. you can take the switches apart and clean them up, and that helps with the speed alot (or so I've heard, haven't tried it yet) and Loyale 2.7 turbo mentioned once that he replaced the relay under the passengers seat with a bosch one? you could ask him about that. I have been meaning too, but with my work situation in recent months, I havent done ANYthing on my soob. good luck, this sounds like your new scooby to me :grin:

denatured alcohol is cheap, too... it works like a charm and is no harm done, harm ceoms from long term use. We used it on a van that had every reason to be "careful" about it, if you understand my point.. and also used alcohol for emissions testing (IIRC) in a 68 ford galaxie, too.... that was an interesting vehicle, the galaxie...

dont presume those wheels are still straight until thats been proven.. i mean, if they look fine they probably are, but dont forget that they WERE in a wreck if, in the future, you experience an "odd wheel wobble problem that you cant figure out," yanno?

what he said. Except i have an auto 3-speed :mad:

I'm with Wheat Beer Man (except I'm more of a fan of belgian trappist ale, wheat beer tastes like a loaf of bread ) Go ahead and make a few units. Take pictures. Post an ad for sale. That way, you KNOW you can move three or four units EVENTUALLY so there is NO loss, and i bet its a better beginning than asking for 20 orders before making a single unit. If this is like a group purchase thing, obviously thats a different story... but if you were talking about fabricating them yourself, go for it. If its a flanged Y-pipe, it can always have a flanged catalytic converter installed after it, right? As for sizing, I can't imagine you would need too many non-stock sized units... and I would limit it to just two diameters (stock and upgraded, i suppose unless demand rises for more selection. If you build yourself a spare while you build yours, then its nothing to build two spares.. see what you can sell them for and find out whether its worth it or not that way.

I think that if its a 3 speed auto it sucks, and it needs to be replaced with the fivespeed posthaste. otherwise, sound planning. find a way to put a weber on the EJ and make it a high-comp, NA screamer with an absurdly loud exhaust:grin:

keep thinking about points I want to add to this thread.. two more: 1. even if we would all love a little more gitup-and-go when we stomp our foot in it, we know we have the torque to make us move from 50 to 70 in top gear without much throttle.. and 2. The higher ride adds to body roll, which has no real impact on the ride quality beyond making it seem more fun

when the voltage regulator on the alternator dies, it lights up the christmas tree. thats what went out on mine when it died. I dont know what happens when the alternator fails to output voltage but the regulator is still functional... my point was, if the car suddenly went to dead, no power, chances are its a grounding issue, battery cable issue, or fusible link issue, or some kind of short, rather than the alternator dying.. a battery should not "regain" enough charge to start the car if that same battery just caused the car to completely die through low voltage (ie, no lights would even come on dimly? if it was that dead then theres no way it would "come back") So be prepared for an alternator swap NOT to fix your problem, is all I am saying. I hope I'm wrong, but thats what goes through my head reading the posts... so I figured I would warn you.

with the trip computer one, you dont have the option of flipping it.. but i AM going to have to cut most of the face out of it anyhow, so I will have to consider placing the cupholder on top.... I usually have a travel mug I use for soda etc anyhow, so spillage should be minimal to nil, as long as i dont top off.

the "you will pass emissions" stuff did NOT work on our ford 351 windsor engine, and the alcohol worked with flying colors. Just adding that two bits. When you finally get her through emissions, its customary to celebrate with a lunch somewhere you wouldnt ordinarily bother going to for lunch

how many of us have wrapped up a job on our soob with that statement? (wheel bearings, TOD, belt tensioners, suspension wobbles, axles, lots of things are noisy )

87 2wd 3at GL10, 25mpg city driving. I want a fivespeed. wanna swap? :brow:

PB Blaster isnt the best thing anymore. Seafoam came out with this stuff called deep creep that is, as much better than PB, as PB is to WD-40. its the bomb-diggity, fo shizzle, as they say. these people should pay me, i shout about that stuff so much.. its like 6 bucks a can or more, but SOOO worth it. might be worth nabbing a can.

yah can you say vroom?

I was going to put the cupholder in my stereo install kit... For the record, crutchfield sells the install kit with the plastic face plate that allows for the trip computer to be mounted on the shide, where it went originally, AND a DIN stereo, AND the cupholder. the cupholder has to go below the stereo, though.. (I Think.. must investigate) I got one out of an early 90s toyota corolla.

well, its only like a 200 dollar plane ticket, and maybe 300 in gas to drive it back.... and then some heart and dedication (read, sweat and labor and bruised knuckles) to make the driveline bits from your dead one (RIP) go into the new one.. but youd have a sube with all the goodies you had before (because you yank em back) and it would be a 3-door. Pseudo-RX

good to know.. the QD Electronics cleaner used for the MAF sensor cleaning would be an ideal solution for this problem, no pun intended. I had thought as much, but never got around to actually cleaning mine

+1, funny. EFI till I die...

this thread has gotten really thorough though.. and worst case scenario, as I see it BGD: you'll have to come back to the thread to look up how to reconnect one or two things youve eliminated, at some point in the future. Repkacing high current wires is always a good thing, whether the donor harness is 12 years old or 20.. new wire is um, new and heat shrink wrap is your best best friend.

wonderful timing for this thread, i need to replace my O2 sensor and we have a couple spares at the shop.. now I just need to look up the vehicle whence they came, and see if this matches the subie. thanks guys :- ) oh and spark plug thread chasers FTW:headbang: every cheap*ss needs one.

your engine shouldnt immediately die if your alternator suddenly fails.. it normally lights up a christmas tree of idiot lights on the dash, and continues to run for a little while at least on battery power before the engine dies.. or can an alternator blow in a way that causes total systemic fault, other than like say a fusible link issue? my point is, to me your story seems to point more towards some other electrical gremlin or magic wire than towards a blown alternator. The car usually dies, yes, but its usually a bit down the road once the battery gets sucked dry.. and when the alternators not functioning, and the engine is running, it lights up the christmas tree... so you get a warning that youre running with something MAJOR wrong, and pull over and stop.. but ive known people to run cars with dead alternators for months at a time, using two batteries and a charger and a LOT of wasted effort..... Check all the fusible links, and if you havent replaced the stamped-out copper factory batter terminals yet, buy some new cables for the battery. Bring a battery along thats got a good strong charge in it instead of counting on "topping the battery off," although I have done that on nearly every battery that has come my way secondhand ive ever gotten.. suffice it to say that if it looks like you can get to it to add water, you probably can, but PLEASE be very careful, do so at your own risk, etc, etc... "I have done that and not died. Perhaps you might be as fortunate, as I." battery acid == BAD good luck.

I will first say that the ECU is (usually? maybe not all fo them) programmed only to turn the fuel pump relay on when the engine is running, or when the key is turned to "start" so simply turning the key on, normally does not power the fuel pump. beyond that, it is a distinct possibility that the ECU is fried, if no LED lights are coming on. it sounds like you are familiar with the testing procedures, at least enough to have identified the ID code/"no fault" flashes... Fortunately, a replacement shouldn't be to hard to source fromt a JY or on this site, if needs be. When someone says "there are no junkyards near me...." someone else will usually chime in with an ECU for a reasonable amount. this forum is a good place. check back often.