daeron

The first line, was exactly my thought upon reading bucky's post, heh... the last line, i think goes without saying. Quite frankly caleb, the only thing your wagon DOESNT have that ANYONES has, that I think I would like.. is the ER27. For some reason I have this strange dream about a wagon, or a sedan, GL-10 badging, with a 6 cylinder engine in it and the RX kit on it... WRX wheels, proper coil-over suspension, and AWD.. I almost imagine it as "the better maxima" honestly... The hood scoop, could stay or go. I think it looks nice, but it isn't my typical thing; so without an intercooler to make it functional I doubt I would have it on.

Please forgive grossgary; he must be slipping his clutch tonight. The BTV cracks, which are acceptable, are NOT what you are describing; you are descibing the exhaust port crack which is, indeed, cause for scrapping the head. +1 on resurfacing the other head though... the shop should be able to measure the spare cylinder head going on just as grossgary said.

I drove my datsun around for three years with no regulator in the driver door, and no interior panel on it.. when i NEEDED to put it up (rain, while parked) I had a wood 2x4 block that I stuck into a slot in the sheetmetal of the door that held it *just* so. So, when I finally put a new driver door on, with a functional window, *I* was thrilled to be able to drive around with the window UP if for some crazy reason I wanted to (hot, no AC.. but in the rain, halfway is a nice compromise heh.) Anyhow, good luck.

ka-CHUNKka-CHUNKka-CHUNKka-CHUNK!!!!!

Some people like to coat cheap valve cover gaskets with a think layer of RTV and let them cure before using them; is this the "valve cover trick?" or were you talking about the ten mm ratcheting box wrench? In any case, the RTV is needed mostly for the joint between the cam case and the cylinder head. Note that this is NOT a substitute for the metal re-inforced O ring; when you take them apart this O-ring will be apparent. The seam that you need to line with RTV is a kind of recessed channel that forms the perimeter surface of the cam case that contacts the cylinder head. Again, once you get it apart, if that doesn't make sense now, it will.

I counted out a ten, maybe 10.5 second 0-60 in my FWD 3AT once.

Glad to hear it was so simple, and thanks for the update. seems like any time I bother posting the whole overheat post, its something simple like that. Thats better than long difficult problems, any day, eh?

if you were REALLY good you could get this thing to have functional rear windows I LIKE!!! I just have to pray to god you can weld, is all. If you can, I hate to talk trash.. I am just saying this is a job to trust to good welding at least.. and anyone who knows, knows that "good" welding is actually barely acceptable.. "top-notch" welding is something that VERY VERY Few attain, so "good" is kinda the bare minimum... Any photos of the beads you're laying down? This is REALLY a neat concept.. I *think* that you just might be able to take your hatch back out, and cut the roof line at an angle to make it match the hatchline a bit.. this would move the hatch forwards a hair.. but you actually might wind up with a shape and size that could be filled by the stock sedan rear quarter panel window.. which would make for a much more finished looking product, but I can certainly understand just taking the simpler way out. "just saying" is all What are you using for a tailgate, part of another wagon hatch? I also have to agree with the notion of a rollbar, as a simple chassis stiffening. This way you can install simple angle or channel across the plane of the bed, rather than use expensive tubes, and still wind up with a rigid chassis. As for "articulation".. Caleb, that was BAD

i have small hands, so it comes easier to me than to most.. BUT, usually window regulator mechanisms are NOT such complex and intimidating things as they may seem. Make sure you do this outdoors, with plenty of daylight, because there is no other adequate light source, period. Sometimes broad daylight isnt REALLY enough, shadows can make things trick if they are in just the wrong spot. It shouldn't be very hard... Honestly. Just tryin' to give you some encouragement, along with the only advice that goes for all car makes and models: work in broad daylight.

minor threadjack.. and really, im just fishing.. but what would a stock ea-82 turbo fetch, pricewise? cheap side, I don't think i would be wanting to gouge anyone heh..

probably 2. By "abnormal injector output" they mean electrically; not literal fuel output. The computer has no real way of measuring that. Changing an SPFI injector is easy; just pick one up at the junkyard. Start undoing screws. Its pretty obvious. Be careful with seals and gaskets, and re use if you can, or get new ones for peace of mind. You got FSMs? http://ch601.org/engines.htm find subaru ea82 parts 1 and 2. Included in the second file are directions for testing the resistance of the unpowered injector, so you can "check" the one in the junkyard before you buy it.

the only special tool for doing the headgaskets is a ratcheting box end wrench, and that is only if you plan on leaving the engine in the car. Obviously for the job you are doing, its coming out (right?) so that doesn't matter. As for the reseal, PVC is a good source of a seal installer; it is important to get something the right size to push them all in; and I like to lube the friction surfaces of the seal with some oil before installing. No need to get nervous; just take pictures if you can, and label everything you can as you take it apart. When I did my headgaskets, I had some white printer labels (masking tape would work as well) and an eight color sharpie set.. anything I didnt have a name for got a color code and the word "thing," with a coded label on hose and on device it went to, and on electrical plug for device. It is wise to find a cardboard box that you can use to do this with the lifters and rocker arms: Here is a link to my photobucket headgasket album.. I was gonna do a super thorough writeup with scads of pics, but I forgot the camera on assembly day and the phrase "assembly is reverse of removal" has always bugged the hell outta me. http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Head%20Gasket/?start=0

alot of denatured alcohol, as close to 100% as you can get. It works, and its safe. People use Toluene as well, but denatured alcohol somehow seems "better" in my mind. Just fill up with a full tank of real gas after driving around your alcohol powered frankenbrat for a little while and you are fine.

best first job on an EA82 there is. if its your first major mechanical experience, its great for that, too.. I had no solo mechanical experience beyond "dads helper" and a few brake jobs, a radiator swap, and similar BS when the T belt on my Geo Storm broke, so I got baptized by a different water pump.. but the belts on my soob were the first job I had to do on this engine, and I had to do it to get the car from my brother.. Read miles' writeup, take your time, and you will probably be A okay, and ten time the man you are now when youre done

I think you're right; at 6oK miles, this heap has reached the end of its thirteen year lifespan. You should just ship it down to me; I could use uhm.. the interior, thats it. Put nice plush interior on my car, yah... Well, most of the help has already been given. I will add that aftermarket axles that arent new GCK or rebuilt MWE are all crap, as are most of the boots available, and I know this simply from reading the experiences of others. I cant TELL you how many people had one passenger boot rip, and have as a result, replaced that axle with a crappy one (not their fault, hard to find the good one if you don't know about it) Now, they have gone thru 2 or 3 axles on that one side, without having issue with driver side. The point about a possible bad cat was a decent one; two ways to check for clogged cat are: 1. if the cat is clogged, the exhaust pipes after the cat will cool off MUCH MORE rapidly than the cat and the Y pipe... 2. You can take a shop vac and stick the wand into the tailpipe. (with engine OFF ) It shouldnt "suck up" like you put your hand on the hose; it should suck air freely thru the exhaust. If it changes the sound of the vacuum cleaner much, or if the hose sucks up, then thats a good sign of a bad cat.

In my 87 I have yet to encounter any evidence of improper function; the only oddity I found was that my temp tended to RISE if I flipped the heater on during an overheat event to help it cope.. BUT I am about 99% positive that my heater core is cloggggggggged bigtime. Before I had a rad hose, then replaced the radiator then a water pump blow, and still wound up having headgaskets go bad... my digidash read a consistent three bars when hot, steady, ALL the time. SINCE the headgaskets, I see four bars on occasion when I combine a hot day, with any of the following: AC on, highway travel, passenger in car. That last one only happened once, and as soon as the sun went down it was back to three. Granted, I have no outside verifiable proof of accuracy.. which questions the consistency of its function, but consistency my digidash has. Bear in mind that I do have this sucker grounded sixteen ways to sunday, everything EXCEPT a direct dashboard to electrical system ground, and the ground wire some of us need to add to the wiper motor (I DO need this one still, heh) Also, body rust notwithstanding, the battery cables and fusible links are the only electrical connections of any kind that have EVER had any visible crud on them. I agree with most, I think its the radiator; I just like to play devil's advocate so that everyone knows what they're getting into. Come to think of it, I wonder if the Hayne's people are hiring....

do you have a multimeter? If so, unplug the fuse, and check for continuity between the fan side of the fuse plug, and chassis ground. Something tells me your going to find some continuity there. If you DO find continuity, then run under the hood, and unplug the fan. Not the thermoswitch, the thermoswitch only deals with grounding the fan. Once the fan is unplugged, go back to the fuse panel and check for continuity between the fan side of the fuse plug and ground again. If you get infinite resistance, replace the fan; if you still have continuity then somewhere between the fuse box and the fan plug, the hot wire for the fan is frayed and shorting out somewhere.

the ea81 digidash is the one with the non trustworthy temperature gauge, but that doesn't mean this is a gauge malfunction. Don't presume that, BUT it is a very real possibility. By the way, how many bars does that digidash have, total? my 87 (TOTALLY different) has ten bars, the top two are red, and it normally runs at three (four if hot and AC on) An aftermarket temp gauge is typically recommended for peace of mind, but its your car. I'll be brief: check the radiator for cool spots with your hand when its hot. make sure a thorough degreasing wouldnt help it make sure your fans are working make sure there is no fin rot. If all that checks out, make sure there arent any steam leaks.. a cheapo laser pointer can help detect steam that you might not be able to see otherwise. Steam leaks are most often found on upper radiator hoses, and other rubber near the TOP of the system, but can be anywhere. You could also try removing the thermostat and flushing your block out with a garden hose, but if ALL of the above checks out, then sounds like radiator time even though the "cool spot" test was passed and the coils are intact and clean.

lucky you! sounds like fun, good to hear parts worked out. "hard to get parts for that thing?" "not really!"

You should know by now that when you encourage me, I talk. ALOT. well, the last time I did it* it lasted a couple of months.. but the bad side (passenger) was the one I did first, and about a third of the way through the driver side I realized that I was a total moron, and couldn't open my gas door any more. (the cable had broken before I got the car, and I had been opening the door by reaching in the rust hole and pulling the lever by hand. I fixed it now.) SO, I realized this and got mad at myself and rushed the second side. This time I started on the driver side, so I am hoping it will last through the rainy season at least. (if it makes it to october I will be happy.) Hopefully paint would make it last longer; but if I do decide to do that I think I am going to redo the driver side, and add a layer to the passenger side, both mostly for minimal cosmetic reasons.. There are some creases and odd folds/lines in the tape that I would want to be gone if its going to be anything more than an angry patch up. **I KNOW some of you were waiting to hear me say this wasnt the first time I've tried this

nothing that should throw you TOO off, but it IS a totally different engine, intake-wise from the turbo car.. vicki WAS a turbo GL-10, right? I have the SPFI, 3at, 2wd so engine and trans wise I am identical to Junior (even though my car may sound more like vicki) and I made it up to 102 once on a flat grade, just a hair above sea level. (that describes the everglades fairly well, actually.. a flat grade, just a hair above sea level ) As for your odometer problem... it makes no sense.. the speedo and the odometer run off the same gears, so I dont know, thats a strange one. How did you get this "calibration" measurement?

and that calls for a thankee for the update, helps my "street cred" :cool:

A: It sounds like the angel is working full time; it also sounds like you might have a leprechaun gnawing at you. Are you Irish perchance? contrary to popular belief, the "luck of the irish" seems to be rather crummy, and it sounds like your Itchy does a valiant job fighting your little demon away when he tries to mess with you. B: Good philosophy to take towards things. Sometimes adopting a policy of "Don't sweat the small stuff" is appropriate; sometimes sweating the small stuff helps to ignore harping on the major excrement hitting the air conditioning. And humor can bring a smile to a toothless grin

IIRC, several reasons on top of each other, a few of which: -studs, thread them in, torque them once, never take them out again; torquing heads is always a stress and a wear on the steel stud and not the aluminum. -stud become an integral part of the block, and change the way the stress is transferred into the aluminum. more stress is put up where the nut fastens to, and much much less on the aluminum of the block deck; this keeps the mating surface truer, longer, better. -simple maintenance questions, a damaged stud is a piece of cake to fix, a damaged head bolt usually has damanged block threads accompanying it. I am sure I have left out some more technical, "why it RUNS better" points that I do know, and that I am ignorant of, but they are largely "strawpile" in nature. Every little bit helps, though.

I was going to say the same thing It DID help. I was going to suggest doing just this to the original poster. Do not just replace a bad radiator without checking a couple of "last ditch" things. Make SURE that plenty of air is passing through the coils of the radiator, and coming into direct contact with either bare metal, or painted metal. Road grime, drit, oil sludge, sand, bugs, mud, ANY of that insulates the radiator and nullifies its functioning. If its dirty, spray it with some concentrated degreaser (simple green works great) from both sides, and then blast it out with a garden hose from inside the engine bay. If it is REALLY dirty, go ahead and just take it out to clean it. Once you know the rad is clean, (or not awfully dirty; it would have to be close to muck solid to cause as much overheat as you are describing) you also know the conditions of the fins on the coils; rotten, "disappearing" fins are cause for a new radiator in and of themselves. Anyhow, given that the rad is clean, the fins are good, next step is get the car hot (normal operating temp, no need to get hotter than that) and feel with your hand the entire surface of the radiator, checking for spots that are cooler than the rest. Cool spots indicate clogged spots; just like with the rotten fins, excessive clogged areas warrant a new radiator. You should also verify that your fans are functioning as they should; a non functional electric fan is common (thermoswitch issues) and in the summertime often can cause an issue like this to "come up." There is a very good chance you have a bad radiator; if you want to just throw the money at it and bet that you do, you can. If you go through all these tests, find a beautiful rad and flush it out and still find overheating with a new thermostat and radiator cap and functioning fans, and STILL have cooling issues, then you wind up having to buy a new radiator anyhow.. but it is frequently worth it to check these simpler things before dropping $150.