daeron

A functional hood scoop usually involves a top mounted intercooler; unless its a backwards pointing hood scoop, venting air out from the engine bay, in which case its functionality is debatable because they typically "Vent" into the highest pressure area on the vehicle, the base of the windshield.

How Inspired are you??? How inventive and resourceful are you? Can you use a multimeter and read a wiring diagram? You had an awesome soob, turbo fivespeed, the full package.... it's not something to throw away lightly. Everything would more or less bolt right in.. I believe the engine crossmember may be different, and you may have damaged that in the accident, but that would be sourceable in the junkyard. Anyhow, given that you have a "complete" donor car (ie, assuming any parts that are damaged can be found from a JY) a swap shouldn't be too much of a big deal, as such things go. You WOULD need to retrofit a good deal of wiring as well as the ECU to get it to work, but if you can get some FSMs, and read some wiring diagrams, its more than do able. The fivespeed swap itself is a no brainer. As for "what do I need," get underneath each car. Whats different? take it out of Vicki and put it in Junior. In fact, thats basically all you would need to do with ANY of it. The most involved part is, I THINK there is a bearing carrier for the rear driveshaft that might not be present on the FWD car; it doesn't take much to figure out a solution to that, search around. However; the wiring involved in the engine swap would deter many, and I don't have a good idea of your skill level and confidence. Most of it is really confidence, and patience.. the skill comes from experience, added to the patience and confidence. None of us were born with a wrench in our hand.

you shouldnt need any additional vacuum reservoir, the bottle thats already there for the AC controls should be adequate. The car DOES already have a vacuum reservoir up on the firewall, engine side, passenger side? If so it is sufficient. IIRC, the dealer kit cake with one so as to make it universal, able to be installed into vehicles without a canister already. My cruise doesnt need a second canister, anyhow. I bet you could splice into the existing vacuum circuit and get plenty of power to run what you need; it isnt much.

B. Steering wheel switches == factory cruise, turn signal == dealer install. A wild guess says that the dealer install kit would be simplest; Do both kits have a "power" button up underneath the rear defogger switch? the factory cruise power switch is an illuminated plunger switch that is a blank button on unequipped models.

do you have a multimeter? They dont make electrical testing easier, they make it possible, heh. The fan should definitely come on with a jumper wire installed in place of the radiator temp switch. If you have a multimeter, I would suggest checking for continuity between the fan ground wire, and at least one side of the temp switch plug. If all else fails, one fan should be fed fused battery power, switched on with accessories, at all times; Grounding this fan will turn it on permanently. When I installed the jumper wire in my thermoswitch plug, I was "fixing" an independently grounded wire on my electrical fan.. and it was something that I "got around to" fixing after driving it like it was for a year and a half. I live in South Florida, and leaving my fan on year round causes me no headaches or worries at all, and the last thing I ever want to do is turn it off.

this thread is not going to die, ever. Anytime someone wants to fix their AC and they run a search, it will come up, people who haven't seen it yet will have to comment, and its gonna be a bucket O laughs all over again. Not complaining, just making a prediction.

This has been simmering around in my head for some time anyhow, but you just convinced me to start bringing my big diagonal cutters with me on every "just for kicks" trip to the boneyard... because you are right. You never DO know when the right wire harness "spare parts" might come in handy..... hmmm. Thanks.

There is a unit under the hood of some sort (totally ignorant on terminology here, sorry), the switches of course, and I believe an electronic control module under the dash. The VSS on the two vehicles must be the same type; if memory serves, the digidash and analog VSSs are slightly different? and you need to use cruise from an analog car if youre putting it on an analog car? I am uncertain, but I have been keeping my eyes open regarding this stuff because ultimately I want to get another soob to take all of my GL-10 bits off an retrofit onto, including the factory cruise. For the record, there ARE kits for less than a hundred bucks.. but i do not know anything about how well they work. My uncle has owned and installed several different types of systems; I will ask him roundabout how much he paid vs. the quality of what he has. I will be following this thread with interest.

my GL-10 may have a different setup entirely, with variable intermittents, but my wipers would work OK on low and high speed with the "relay" that attaches to the plastic "over-your-feet" trim piece under the steering wheel. Without it plugged in, my only problem was that they would not "park" at the right point on my windshield; they just stopped where they were when I turned the switch off. I do not know if a blown or bad relay, plugged in, could cause total failure; but with the unit simply unplugged it should work fine.

The SPFI, NA engines frequently blow intake manifold gaskets and suck coolant into the intake charge. Your turbo is MPFI, so it would have a totally different intake manifold gasket set up... and I have no idea if its failure prone in this way at all. Could well be, though; it is a common problem with many cars. All EA82s are prone to developing cracks in the exhaust ports that allow coolant into exhaust. Either of these will have the same effect, as would a turbo that lets coolant into the intake charge. I think its safe to say that you are burning coolant; try pulling a plug. If it looks CLEAN then theres a good chance its a turbo or intake mani gasket. (ie, coolant getting into combustion chamber, helps clean carbon deposits up.) On the other hand, you could also maybe drop the exhaust manifold? is that difficult to do on the turbo? and look REAL close into the exhaust ports for cracks. If your plugs are showing carbon and normal dirty but acceptable conditions, then I would lean towards the possibility of cracked exhaust port. No BIG deal, if you cant find junkyard heads near you someone on the board could easily come through. IF, you wind up having significant work done on the engine, COME BACK AND READ THIS POST: These engines almost ALWAYS (virtually always) have small cracks between the valves on each cylinder. NOT A PROBLEM if the crack isnt big enough to fit a fingernail into. the place to check for cracks is the exhaust port; if you find one there then the head is junk, or needs to be welded (not worth it) Do not let a shop, especially a subaru dealership, tell you otherwise: Between-The-Valve cracks are OK, exhaust port cracks are bad.

Cam case meets the head, the head meets the block. I will assume you mean cam case to head seal, that is not a gasket but rather a bead of RTV type sealant. To get it off, you have to take the timing belts off, the distributor out, and take the valve covers off and then the cam cases.. its about 60% of a headgasket job, BUT you do NOT have to remove the intake or exhaust whatsoever. You might want to do a compression check on this motor, and think about doing the headgaskets while you are in there? Let me put it this way: I would, but I fiddle with things alot. *Definitely* consider doing the timing belts and water pump, possibly oil pump.. check t belt tensioners and idlers.. etc. If you do not know when the timing belts were done last and this engine has over 100K (i didnt re read the whole thread) then its almost necessary.

not really a turbo guy, but it sounds like these shops are trying to take you for a ride in your own old japanese turbo car... It sounds to me like something has blown in the turbo, allowing coolant to leak into the intake charge somehow. I realize this may sound relatively obvious, but in short, thats where your problem likely lies. Has the car overheated at all? I am sure persons more knowledgable about the turbo models than myself will chime in soon enough; if not search, this is not an uncommon problem. I simply dont know it because its not my car, you know?

quick and dirty sketch. I forgot to label the center box as the engine block. The intake manifold and throttle body are hiding (not hiding) under the big black rubber SUBARU FI snorkel; the PCV valve is coming off the back of the intake manifold in approximately the location shown by my rectangle labeled PCV, and it goes into one of the hoses that connect to the big rubber snorkel. The alt, p/s pump, and compressor are there to give you guidance. The spark plugs, intake manifold, and exhaust all fasten to the cylinder head, and the cam cases bolt onto the ouside of them, and then the valve covers bolt onto the outside of the cam cases. The valve covers are the "side plates" of the engine, that says SUBARU on them (but with a bad oil leak that often getos completely covered up) You could have leaky valve covers; that would be right at the extreme edge of the engine, you could have a leak between cam case and cylinder head, you could have a leak between block and cylinder head, that would be a bad headgasket. probably not this one, but possibly. Is is on the front side of the engine, or the back side? you said pretty much right underneath the wires, so I am leaning towards bad valve cover gasket, but thats far from conclusive. here are some disassembled shots for you to help gain some better idea on "what is what" engine block bare pic http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Head%20Gasket/Resizeofheadgasket081.jpg shot of passenger side with valve cover off, the hole you see is in the cam case, it is for the oil filler tube. The cam case is black and covered with oil grime, its sitting back against the frame rail. http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Head%20Gasket/Resizeofheadgasket021.jpg and a shot of the cam cases and valve covers on the bench http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Head%20Gasket/Resizeofheadgasket032.jpg and a shot of the above, with the cylinder heads on the bench in front of them. http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Head%20Gasket/Resizeofheadgasket042.jpg

I think he is. And stop calling him shirley. I saw the end of scary movie 3 i guess, on comedy central.. and saw leslie nielsen walk into the basement and say that, and almost peed my pants. I almost fell out of my seat when I read your first post for the second time; I didn't believe it the first read. good one.

lets just endangers LOTS of cars.... same thing goes for datsuns and up to mid eighties nissans... I can start AND unlock my brothers truck (its a 95 i think, too) with my soob key, and that has been VERY helpful before. Don't count on it working every time, though. Just a reasonable likelihood.

fivespeed??? try push starting it.

No, but if he doesnt have fresh blinker fluid he just might trash the running light/turn signal journals.

Nice!! now pull the gauge cluster, insert an oil pressure, water temperature, and voltage gauge, and you will be set!! AC, by any chance?? I like the quad headlight look, and that grille, over the more loyale style look of the GLs of the same period.

try the thumb-on-the-sparkplug-hole compression test, too... and bring section of tubing that you can jam one end into your ear, and fish the other end around the intake gaskets, listening for a leak on the non running side. Wild guess.. driver side cylinders are running, but not the passenger?

Sounds to me like either you, or your parts guy, needs to cough up some info on exactly what VW part to ask for to get these bearings this is an awesome find, if it works out. Thanks!

any chance its coming from behind you and not the engine bay? The "intermittent rattle" that I chased for about two years turned out to be the plastic trim piece behind my rear passenger door, surrounding the rear quarter window on that side. However, it took me having passengers in the back seat for me to even localize the sound; it sounded like it could be coming from anywhere, honestly. However, catalytic converter heat shield is the first thing that comes to mind if its an engine bay rattle.

FTW!!!!! go bratman, go bratman... those photos bring back ooold memories of my dads XT6, thanks!

I couldn't agree more. BUT... That is simply not true. If you recycle your used motor oil, they recycle it and re use it, or dispose of it properly.. but if you "recycle" your R12, it gets used to recharge other R12 systems, from which it will gradually, ultimately, leak out. Recycling refrigerant is a delaying action- no more. it WILL wind up in the upper levels of the atmosphere; now, or later. That was my only point. Do your best to find someone to come out and "steal" it from you; thats the upright thing to do.. but don't lose sleep because you destroyed the environment if circumstances force you to crack a line and vent it; you merely failed to delay the inevitable.

thanks for adding some copy and pasted "science" there. I hate to do this; I was simply saying that i feel more guilty throwing an aluminum can out while on the wrong highway than I feel about the occasional times in the past that I have in fact, broken this law, regarding air conditioning...