porcupine73

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Hi. Yes I just did a 2.2L timing belt and noticed a similar thing on the LH cam pulley. It looked to be a little too far cw to the indent on the timing belt cover. However, the marks on the timing belt were perfectly aligned with the dashes on the sprockets. When I pulled the tensioner, the LH cam moved slightly ccw and then it was right on. So basically I think you start with the cams aligned to the points on the timing cover, then hang the new belt and make sure the teeth counts/marks on the belt are correct with the hashes on the cam sprockets and you're good. And the crank sprocket too of course. The tooth counts are the important thing. edit: also are you using an OEM belt? Those marks seem to be dead on; not sure about aftermarket belt marks.

Intermittent problems like that are the hardest to find. Glad it's fixed!

Yes many of the items call for inspection only, but if you look at the 'footnotes', there are exceptions for various items for 'severe duty' including towing, cold weather operation, dusty conditions, short trips, etc. You can view the sched. at http://www.subaru.com and click 'owners' from the top menu. For fuel injector cleaners I like Lucas UCL with some RedLine SI~1 mix. I add a little bit at EVERY fillup. The detergent pack of even 'top tier' fuels is lacking.

hehehe "owner of said tires slid into back of vehicle in front due to emanation of orange oil esters from the tires, which caused a slippery condition between tires and road surface. But it smelled good doing it."

It's a fairly simple job. I just did it on '96 Legacy to get rid of that rogue napa alt. The only real 'issue' was the alt is somewhat heavy and my somewhat out of wack back didn't appreciate dead lifting it.

Ok, will do. Not sure what to make of it. It is confusing. These pirelli tires don't have a ton of tread left anyway so am considering new ones and an alignment; unfortunately I think I missed the $100 discounttiredirect.com discount.....oh well may see who Nile recommends.

Ew that doesn't sound good. Sounds like a potential wiring issue to me. Have you checked for any blown fuses? I might look later to see if the same fuse feeds the drain battery switch and the parking lamps normally. Maybe I would read the ABS code(s) to see if that reveals anything?

Yes it's kind of like a toggle switch. Make hard left esp over railroad tracks, then happily drive vehicle above 60mph no shimmy, can start/stop, sit overnight etc., but curse the time I make a sharp right, then go over 60mph, shimy is there, until I can find opportunity to make sharp hard left again.

It seems if I make a hard left turn, especially over railroad tracks, then the shimy is gone above 60mph. If I make a hard right turn, boom, nasty shimmy is back over 60mph. Does that sound like a shifted belt or something maybe? I know it is the front right tire from previous experiments.

One place to look is at the exhaust gasket donut after the rear cat before the resonator. Those can rust out and start leaking. If that's it, you can get a Subaru kit to fix it that includes the donut gasket, bolts, nuts, and springs (as all those will be fairly rusty too, and the bolts will probably snap when you try to remove the nuts). Some pics from my job for this on '00obw:

Good call on going OEM reman alt vs parts store. Yes slow charge battery overnight so it is completely charged when you leave. If you don't run the headlights, heater, a/c, defrost, etc., you can get a few hours runtime if you have a good batt. Yes definitely unhook a battery cable before starting work; the large gauge wires to the alt are always hot. Not sure if it is the same for your vehicle, but here is belt tension for '00obw:

Not sure; here's some related '94 Legacy wiring diagrams... I would double check that fuse 5 with an ohmmeter or just replace it to see if that helps; it seems that is a common fuse for many of these lamps.

If you look at the top right of the poster's information bar, you will see an 'iTrader' indication. You can click there if there is a number to see feedback the user has received from previous transactions conducted on the board, sort of like eBay's feedback.

I looked at FSM for '96 Legacy; diagram is below. For inner tie rod it says 'see steering gear', then it shows a couple basic things with the washer and some special tools, with the rack out of the vehicle.

There's some good articles on http://www.endwrench.com about how the VDC system works; it looks pretty neat. I looked at '06 baja's on http://www.cars101.com; it said the turbo adds "Optional SportShift automatic transmission with VTD awd system"; the turbo with leather package had "Automatic SportShift transmission with VTD all wheel drive". I didn't see VDC.

Hi. Sorry about the diff. Of course just make sure whatever rear diff you get has the same ratio as the one you have now.

For the rear diffs, a 1/2" drive breaker bar or such will work. I use a 1/2" pipe plug socket. It's probably actually metric like 13mm or something but 1/2" seems to work. Transmission drain plug might be 17mm; I have all autos. Common soob fasteners are headed 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm Newer soobs use a T70 torx for the transmission items to hopefully keep the iffy lube type places from draining it when intending to drain the engine oil.

Hi; I forget, did you already replace the knock sensor?

I think there are two ABS fuses; one for the controller and one for the hydraulic unit. I think they might also run some other stuff too... Here's the article from EndWrench I was thinknig of... ABS Relay Sticking - Legacy, Impreza and SVX through 1996 If you encounter a case of the ABS hydraulic motor continuing to run or buzz when the ignition is off, and/or an illuminated ABS warning light and a Code 52 (faulty hydraulic motor and/or motor relay) stored in memory, follow these steps: Note: This condition may be intermittent and difficult to duplicate. 1. If the ABS hydraulic unit continues to run with the key off, confirm the trouble code, if any, and follow the diagnostic chart in the appropriate service manual. 2. Check the wiring harness to make sure it is not the source of the problem. 3. If you have determined that the ABS hydraulic control unit motor is indeed faulty, replace it with the modified relay, part number 26735AA012 (there will be a white line under the word “Japan” on the case). Always check part number supercession for any changes.

Hi. Sounds like a faulty ABS hydraulic unit relay. There were issues with these sticking thus making the pump run constantly. There is info on endwrench.com about it.

Hi and and to the board! What year is this soob? Here's a good article about IACV/ISV cleaning for the styles with the IACV on top of the throttle body: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

Sounds good. I like a dealer geographically close to me that stocks the common parts; this way you can get your order within a couple days without paying for air shipping.

It might be. I'd say have a looksee from underneath. I know on the drivers side it seemed the exhaust was really in the way.

Here's a better pic of the boot in question (left/driver side), circled in red.