porcupine73

ok sounds good. Just a thought; I figured you already had the ecu part set.

Some people have had good results with GCK axles. I think autozone has them too. OEM Subaru axles are very durable. MWE are reman Subaru axles that work very well.

i wonder the same thing about radio shack.

Possibly, but of course the ECU would have to have an input for the knock sensor and programming to take the appropriate processing and action on the signal?

Sounds good. Of soob problems, knock sensor is not an uncommon one. Hopefully they don't charge you too much labor, since it takes about 5 minutes to replace.

Indeed. My Haynes has my name written on them with a Sharpie.

Take a peak under the hood at the various labels and plaquards; that might tell you the suggested gap. Many of the NGK plugs for Subaru come pregapped at .044 inch, which is 1.1mm. That is what the -11 suffix on some NGK part #'s means, pregapped to to 1.1mm (.044 inch).

Yes Ny has different tests for different areas. All the requirements are up on their Web site. I think all areas are subject to the 'enhanced test' which includes ODBII emissions passing (not necessarily including a sniff test). My area (Buffalo, NY, as are most areas outside the main NYC area) get that test. NYC and nearby outliers and such areas as Westchester I think get the high enhanced emissions test which includes at least tail pipe sniff testing, and possibly even dyno testing.

I have not had a bearing replaced at a driveshaft shop; I recall seeing it in some threads previously....perhaps with nipper?

Hm..did you look in the box yet? That part # for me comes up as "PULLEY IDLER (WITH TEETH)" for a number of soobs. That'd be the toothed timing belt idler near the water pump.

I think often the suggestion is to remove the driveshaft and take it to a driveshaft/driveline builder/shop for servicing.

Ok sounds good; just figured would ask the silly question on the off chance it was still on there. I was prying away on my oil pump one time....and whoops forgot to take out a bolt...put a nice little curve in the pump though.

Not sure about your area; here in NY, there is a space on the back of the Title, which is filled out when selling/transferring ownership to another person. It has a spot where the odometer reading must be filled in, and it has a box for 'exceeds mechanical limits' (like a 5 digit odometer which has rolled over), and something like 'not actual odometer reading' or something like that for cases like you described. Note that then the title is branded with some statement about 'not actual mileage' or something.

Right, if the axle nut has been removed, and the axle will not come out of the hub with a few taps, then it probably has some corrosion in there. Penetrating oil good. The splined part is pretty long so you may need a lot of penetrating oil and some time to let it get down in there. If the axle nut has not been removed, the shaft will not come out of the hub.

13021AA091 SPROCKET FOR CRANK PULLEY 1990-1996 ALL LEGACYS 2.2 goes behind Harmonic Balancer Lots of soobs use this same part #

Just be a little cautious with power steering products in Subaru's, as the Subaru's do not use conventional 'power steering fluid'; they simply use Dexron ATF like the auto trans. (or idemitsu hp for newer models).

Hi and to the board. See if you can pinpoint where the smoking is coming from. Check the gear oil level, pronto. There's a drain and fill plug on it. If it is low, the fluid is dark/burned, etc, it needs to be replaced.

Are you trying to remove the crank pulley, or the crank sprocket? The crank sprocket drives the timing belt; the crank pulley is the harmonic dampener which also drives the accessory drive belts. Either way, when either of those are hard to get off it is often corrosion between the crank snout and the pulley/sprocket. I apply good penetrating oil and try to let it get soaked back and down in there real good, this helps a lot. For the crank pulley, I had good results freeing it be tapping it with a deadblow hammer different ways/directions and it came off. For the crank sprocket, I kept gently prying behind it evenly on each side, using a strap wrench to nudge it clockwise, counterclockwise, etc, then when it started coming off and stopped, I applied more penetrating oil and tapped it all the way back on the snout, then repeated, getting a little further each time. If you cracked one of tangs off the crank sprocket, you will probably want to replace it, since that's what the crank position sensor on the oil pump 'reads'.

You'll only be able to spin the cam if the timing belt is off. If you aligned the crank at the position per the procedure, then no piston is near top dead center, and spinning the cam (this is an sohc) will cause no damage.

This is a tried and true method. Just don't let her drink the water in too fast. On '00obw I replaced knock sensor with a resistor, and even with 93/94 it is pinging somewhat under full throttle.

Right on, AFIAK '96 was the last year for non-interference 2.2L's. If you pull a valve cover and see HLA's in there, then maybe you got an earlier 2.2L non-interference engine. If you see the screw and nut adjusters then not.

Something like this:

Suggested parts would be the NGK V-power plug for this vehicle, and OEM plug wires.

The ball joints can be a pain if it's corroded into the socket. I remove the two bolts (upper eccentric, lower regular) holding the strut to the wheel bearing housing. That gives me enough room, at least it did on '00obw, to get the axle out. If you pay attention to where the upper bolt is set before removing it and put it back there then you shouldn't mess up your camber. This method does however risk messing up the tie rod end boot; mine squirted a little grease when I did this. Some people also remove a bolt from the sway bar end link to let the transverse link drop down some as well.

I think either will work fine; the RTV is easier to use, that's why many manuf's suggest it. The anaerobic sealant might be better but is hard to apply, and might be more sensitive to the surface finish.