porcupine73

Are you sure the timing belt has not broken?

Yes you should be good to go HG wise on an '04; or on any H6.

hehe...yes I've seen a blue '08 5-door wrx around my area few times. The first few times I saw it I had no idea what make/model the vehicle was, but for some reason my mind thought maybe Subaru. Yep that's what it is. It is definitely different. The somewhat relatively long hood (in my eye; doesn't look so much so in the pic but in person it seemed longer) in comparison to the rest of the body stood out to me.

Hm..not sure. Maybe since your '98 is a relatively late build they switched to the '99 parts; not sure? 12108AA290 BEARING SET FOR CONNECTING ROD FOR 1999 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS 2.5

Good info! So how do you know you have an inner tie rod problem? Is there noticeable looseness or anything?

12108AA530 BEARING SET FOR CONNECTING ROD FOR 1996-1998 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5 (oversize also available).

Hi gcleeton. If it's flashing 16 times on startup, you need to read the code(s) to find out what solenoid/circuit the TCU thinks has issues.

If you can get the plastic thing in the wheel well out, you can access that wiring fairly easily. I only know because that plastic wheel well guard fell out on my '96 after I bumped a curb and all that wiring is plain to see up in there.

I think there is an article on endwrench.com about this issue...let me have a looksee and report back... edit: ok, might not be related but could be something to check: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuse4Blow.pdf

Hi blaze and to the board! Here's some part # info...appears to be different depending on build date... 12209AA000 BEARING SET FOR CRANKSHAFT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS ALL 2.2 & 2.5 (item (FOR CARS PRODUCED UPTO 10 of 97) (oversize sets available if needed) 12209AA160 BEARING SET FOR CRANKSHAFT FOR 1998 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS 2.5 ALL (FOR 98 CARS PRODUCED AFTER 10 of 97) (oversize sets available if needed)

Hi. Often they seem frozen just because the old grease has cooked and become hardened. If there wasn't enough grease in there, or the boots weren't sealing properly etc, then any water that gets in there promptly rusts them in place. So I'd start by getting the old guide and lock pins out and see what they look like. btw, what year vehicle is this on? Earlier legacies/outback used a little different setup than say ~2000+. Here's a diagram just for reference; this is from a '96 legacy:

Here's some info about how to get the emissions I/M's to set to ready after clearing codes or replacing battery, etc: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6301

Ok, friction modifier. Well yes apparantley at some point in the past in an issue of T.I.P.S. newsletter Subaru did say you could add some limited slip friction modifier (normally used in limited slip differentials with clutch type mechanisms) to deal with torque bind. However that was like early to mid 90's maybe. I'm all for putting in fresh quality ATF with a flush. I would put in that shudder guard only maybe if you are experiencing torque binding problems; otherwise you could always add it later if desired.

Hi skybren. Yes I have a '94 Legacy too! These 2.2L's, with mileage/age, have a number of possible engine oil leak points front cam seals front crank seal - can also be oil pump rotor cover screws backing out and directing some oil out the front crank seal LH cam front support o-ring If you see the bottom of the timing belt covers a bit 'wet' with oil, there is most likely a leak in the above mentioned areas rear main seal valve covers RH cam rear support o-ring I have some pics of these various items if needed.

What's the mileage? I'd give it a good going over for torque bind, head gasket signs, etc. Check the ATF; the 'trans slipping' could be as simple as low fluid level.

If you can get/borrow/beg/buy/etc a scangauge or similar scantool, you can read what the ECU is reading from the engine coolant temp sensor (next to the coolant temp sensor for the gauge). If the ECU reading still appears normal when the gauge goes bezerk then you know it's something with the gauge or sender. If the ECU reading goes high when the gauge goes high then you've got bigger issues.

Ok well it can be worth a shot. The worst that can happen is they tell you it can't pass because the readiness monitors aren't set. In some areas actually if that's the only problem you can get an inspection extension. I guess it depends on what exactly your area's emissions inspection covers. I know here in NY all the relevant I/M's have to be set. '02 is going to be enhanced evap. In my experience the code that takes the longest to set is the evap I/M because of the pressure/integrity test, so the fuel tank has to have less than 9.6 gallons fuel or something, fuel temp has to be a certain thing, etc. for the ECU to run the test and set the evap monitor to ready. Oh yes one exception is many '96 soobs. They reset all the I/M's to not ready every time the vehicle is turned off, so they are exempted from the I/M readiness requirement.

Hi lorimansell. Sorry to hear about the check engine light (CEL) problem. Yes the first thing is we need to know what code(s) are being read, such as P0420. That is the first step. Even if the light is not on when you go to autozone some codes they can read out of the history. If you reset the CEL/MIL (malfunction indicator lamp), you most likely will not pass an emissions inspection. Resetting the lamp resets all the emissions inspection monitors (I/M's) to 'not ready'. They must be 'ready' to pass an ODBII emissions inspection. It takes several drive cycles and miles of driving to get it to do all the tests/etc it needs to do to set those to 'ready' and so the CEL/MIL may come back on before that is complete. Also you really need a scantool to know when the monitor's have went to 'ready'; if you go for the inspection and they're not 'ready' it will fail the test.

edit: moved my reply to lorimansell here -> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=669220

Wynn's makes a 'shudder guard' product: http://www.wynnsusa.com/pdf/557xx.pdf I have no idea why a Subaru dealer would be installing/using this stuff as part of a flush.

hehe fill ATF, drain wallet, etc. If the AT is functioning properly all it wants is good fresh quality ATF. What is /shudder guard'? Is that a lubeguard product?

Are you seeing any arcing in there if it's dark out whilst cranking?

Hi gcleeton. Maybe you could try the code read procedure in this post to see what the issue is. It's fairly straightfoward. Hi newsance. The factory manual lists a host of voltages and resistances, etc. to check. This code has to do with the TCU telling the ECU it wants to shift, and the ECU telling the TCU it has reduced torque (by retarding timing and other things) so it can shift. edit: (purpose is to reduce shift shock)

Oh those green terminals. No those aren't the ones the diagram is talking about. You need to locate the black B82 connector, then pull it down and have a look at it. You should see the item #12 in the diagram 'diagnosis wires' taped up in the harness; they have bare little metal silvery pins on the ends of them. You might have to pull tape back or cut it to get at them. Or just use a piece of wire and ground it yourself.

Yes both of the diagnosis terminals, #12 in that pic, are ground. They provide two because in some cases you need to ground two terminals to perform functions other than reading the code.