porcupine73

Hi. Here's a pic from my '96 legacy 2.2L. It is easy to change, I think the wrench size is 22mm or 7/8" works too. It threads into the intake manifold; it doesn't 'pop' in like it does on some other makes. OEM part is about $7. I have had trouble with aftermarket pcv valves on fords so I stick with OEM.

So many soobs...so little time. Wow those are the longest links I've ever seen posted!

Hm...not sure? Here's some diagrams anyway.....

Hello and welcome! An ~03+ Outback with the H6 would be in that price range and modifiable to what you're looking to do. Maybe you are looking for something like wbanas has? The most mad max looking ones though are the old school with lift kits and mudders/swampers.

Also are you lifting your hand off the steering wheel to see these movements?

Also maybe ask if they have an reflashes available for your ECU. It seems the drive by wire models had updates.

Hm...time to find one of those! I didn't have one so I used a 7/32" pin punch taped in a socket with a socket extension as a drift.

hehe...ok sure take all the fun out of it!

Hello. Your posts title says "BEST OBD2 Diagnostic scanner". If you want the best for the soob, then you want the Subaru Select Monitor, available (as are all Subaru tools) from http://subaru.spx.com

Yes, and despite their 'fail open' failure mode, I have seen posts where they fail closed anyway. A lower temp thermostat is only going to help and even then _maybe_ in consistent high load situations. Go with a Subaru OEM thermostat from a dealer; they can't be beat.

Hi. If you do the swap and want 2.5L I'd stay with the phase I dohc you have. Going 99/00+ phase II 2.5L you would need to swap the ECU as well I would imagine, and the throttle body and intake manifold, as the phase II uses the MAP speed density airflow setup vs. the MAF of the phase I, which then would add some wiring work?. Cam and crank angle sensor signals might be different too. The phase I 2.5L's are all what, say at least 8 years old at this point, so finding a low mileage one might not be easy, plus it still wouldn't be a bad idea to put in at least new HG's while the engine is out.

Yes Subaru does specify a phosphate antifreeze. But by their own admission their coolant does not contain phosphate but rather uses 'a trick of chemistry' I believe they say. No mention of silicates, and no listing of a silicate i.e. sodium silicate or 'sodium salt' on the ingredients list would be reasonable to think it is a non-silicate coolant. The ingredients you do NOT want to see are 2-Ethyl Hexanoic Acid or Neodacanoic Acid, these are typically in OAT coolants such as dexcool.

Oh yes, also be sure to use distilled or deionized water with the coolant if it needs diluting. It costs like 99c a gallon and doesn't have the chlorine and other ions associated with tap or softened or well water.

I don't think the Subaru coolant conditioner (relabelled Holts radweld from the U.K.) can really do anything for the 2.5L phase I dohc exhaust blowing into coolant leak. It may help the phase II peeping leak or any hose connection leaks. However I believe Subaru has said retrospectively to use the coolant conditioner in all soobs, and adds the coolant conditioner to all new soobs at the factory.

Ok. Ethylene glycol is not sufficent. Most coolants are about 96% ethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol. Plus 1-2% water. The remaining couple percent are the additives. Run either genuine Subaru coolant, or check the ingredients to find something at least similar and that is not an OAT. BASF G-05 formulation to me seems at least similar.

No, you should not be running GM dexcool or any OAT coolant (i.e. all makes/all models) coolants in a soob. You MAY be able to run those succesfully provided the system was flushed well with distilled or RO water before the switch, the coolant level is checked regularly by removing the rad cap (not just looking in the overflow tank), and there are no leaks sucking air into the system. There are articles on http://www.endwrench.com The fact that Subaru does not seem to want dexcool run, and GM used to own part of Subaru....well I wouldn't run it..though I have with no ill issues in the past. It's the glopping issue. If air is in the system corrosion can occur on the aluminum parts in a soob...then coolant washes over it...and then glopping ocurs. This has occured in other vehicles too.

One test you could try is removing one of the heater core hoses, then crank the engine (maybe with fuel disabled) and see if you get a nice stream coming out. Yes one nice thing about the OEM thermostat is that its spring is big enough that I don't think it will fit in the thermo housing backwards. Smaller paltry aftermarket thermostats will go in backwards easily.

One thing I've seen a few times on nasioc is chipped/damaged gears, forgot if it's differential or gearbox, from hard launches etc. on WRX and STI.

Hello. Well not sure if it's the same for yours, but here's the locations for an '00obw. '05 could be different. There is a specific order of steps that must be done for the sequence control. Basically for '00obw it's ground pins 3 and 6 and then stepping on and holding the brake pedal right after putting ignition to run. There are articles on http://www.endwrench.com search archives for abs.

Not sure; you'd probably have to check the pinouts to be certain. I know some of the higher end code readers come with various adapters? I think as long as you keep the vehicle 'officially a 95' it won't have to pass any ODBII checks.

Hi sittingbull and to the board! Yes that parking light switch (aka the drain battery switch) often gets bumped on when dusting/cleaning or performing other activities in the car.

Maybe http://www.ccrengines.com could hook you up. The EZ30s are probably not cheap anywhere, esp. without a core.

Hi. Check this out: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tribeca/tribeca2008.html scroll down about half way and it has a picture with all the dimensions, and tons of other info. The '08 Tribeca gets the new 3.6L H6.

Right on, proper cleaning and surface finish are very important for the head gaskets. Is the second set OEM HG's?

Hi. Not sure. You could try http://www.ccerengines.com not sure if they would sell just the heads or not but if so they would be good heads.