porcupine73

Alrighty, I'll start looking these up. I assume these are all ECU/engine (not transmission codes....) I'll edit as I look up each one. I'm getting this from alldatadiy.com 11 - A faulty crank angle sensor will set code 11 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. 12 - A faulty starter switch will set code 12 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the switch with the diagnostic chart. 13 - A faulty cam angle sensor will set code 13 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. 23 - A faulty air flow sensor will set code 23 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. If an air flow sensor that is incorrect for the vehicle model is installed, code 49 will set (whether the sensor itself is faulty or not). Automatic transmission models use a hot film type air flow sensor and manual transmission models use a hot wire type. These are not interchangeable. 33 - A faulty vehicle speed sensor will set code 33 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. With all these codes sounds like some connector/ground/etc type issues.

Hm....how does it seem to be idling/running up to 3500 rpm? Normal or rough or... You're sure the fuel lines are correct? Here's the best pics I have of some fuel line hookups...

Hello and welcome! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925

On that model at least in the U.S. the FWD fuse holder is in the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

What!? I just got it back....

Did someone say Haynes book? sorry...couldn't resist...

Did someone say cam/crank position?

What brand/type plugs do you have in?

Here's a recent one someone did with a press with pics.

This should give you the part # info: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Engine+Parts%2C+T+Belt+Pulleys+%26+Tensioners&year=2000

Hm...that trans price seems a bit high. A similar year used USDM 4EAT should be a couple hundred dollars at most?

Wow glad you got it sorted! Good find....the fuel lines....hm.....AH HA!

Right on, 'throwing parts at it' is typically the most expensive and often most time consuming, and frustrating way to go, especially on a problem like this that could have many different causes. Step one is some good old troubleshooting. But since you asked, the ECTS is about $30 I think for the OEM part I don't remember for sure (note there is another sensor right next to the ECTS - which is the CTS but that is for the temp gauge). OEM FPR is about $100 I think it is.

Also to throw a CEL the ECU has to be able to detect a problem. If the sensor is just grossly inaccurate the ECU doesn't know its lying unless maybe it has another sensor to compare the value with or something like that. Like if I ask you what's the temp outside and you tell me 60 deg; I don't know if you're lying or not. If you don't answer at all or tell me something way off base like 200 deg then I know something is wrong. ECTS = engine coolant temp sensor FPR = fuel pressure regulator

Hm...well a fairly simple test would be to remove either the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter going to the engine, put it into a clear bottle or something, then cycle the key from acc to run a couple times waiting a few seconds between operations, and see if you're getting fuel out. In my experience you should get at least say two to four ounces per key cycle. Of course disclaimer here with the fuel flammable spray in the eyes :cool: thing Maybe the line isn't frozen completely closed, just severly blocked, or ditto for the fuel filter. Also did you try holding the throttle like 1/2 way down while starting (not just trying to step on it after starting)? I just say this because sometimes if it's an idle air control issue it will start and run with the throttle held down some but not with no throttle.

Ok, well fuel filter can definitely be something to change as preventative maintenance then anyway. When you move the key from acc to run (but not to start), do you hear the fuel pump come on for a second or two? Maybe you have water in your fuel system that has now frozen?

Nice info, thanks hohieu. That ebay link has a pretty neat animation of how it works. let's see how long this hotlink works....

How's about if you're holding the throttle down like 1/4 - 1/2, does it just die out then too?

Alright sounds like a good brake order. Typically this is the starter contacts inside in need of replacement; they're maybe $10. Sometimes it is the neutral/park safety switch thing.

Hm...your best bet, if you haven't done it yet, is to double check the timing after looking at the relevant parts of the article: 2.2 Liter Single Overhead Cam Timing Belt Replacement If it still looks good, you might want to try a compression test to see what numbers you get. I believe the article tells what values are normal and if one or two teeth off how much it drops. I think it says one tooth off it should still start; two or more no start. Fortunately your engine is non-interference, so even if the timing is way off there is little risk of damage (though if you get backfiring, etc that is not relaly too good).

Doh sillly electronics! So when you lined up your timing marks on the cam sprockets, did you use the arrows, or the hash marks?

er....hehe ok. Do you have your timing belt covers off right now? If so maybe you could put the crank into the position per the procedure, then snap a pic of (1) the crank sprocket, and (2)the LH cam sprocket) and (3) the RH cam sprocket and post them? Then we can tell if your timing is right.

Hm...it's hard to say from that pic. It's the combination of crank position, each cam position, and, if available, timing belt marks, that makes up the whole config. edit to add: where is your crank angle/position sensor? It seems like it should be visible in that pic....

Wow nice accurate concise reply!