porcupine73

If it was replaced, it may have been done at an independent shop and not show up on any service history the dealer has access to. It could be something else though.

Hi Porterdog and Sorry to hear about your '92. Do you know if either of the front axles were replaced on this vehicle? Often if they are replaced with aftermarket units i.e. napa etc they will develop the vibration you described. The RH (passenger) may have been replaced due to tear at the right inner cv joint boot (since its near the exhaust). I too am in Buffalo and have an '00 Outback that I love.

Glad it's fixed! Yes the filler pipe is rusty on all my soobs in this salt belt area.

Ok sounds like you guys are looking for these parts: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=5451 $25 so that's not too bad for the bracket and bolt. I haven't noticed this part being plastic on my soobs but I should check it out!

I don't think the end link bushings can be replaced: I think they're integral to the link itself. Cheapest thing might be a salvage yard part or surely someone on here would part with tbeir old ones. Upgraded aftermarket links such as whiteline (sold in pairs) are not a whole lot more expensive than new OEM.

hehe, ok maybe just peach not plum..... What year is she? hehe ok I missed it '95. I think they were all AWD in '95 right, no FWD's that year....

Air conditioning components. I use that site a lot so I remembered seeing it there.

Hm...what's this part? 73131FC000

What mileage is on 'er? Maybe she's just plum worn out....

Hi. Yes, there's a front and a rear. You don't happen to have an H6 engine though do you?

hehe...no problem. It's mostly the same set of pics over and over...and now I have one of the hill holder! Hm, maybe I am getting a littleee carried away here...

I think even stopttech says that for typical daily drivers you can get away without any bed in, as long as the brakes never get too hot or something like that. Subaru AFIAK recommends a very soft bed in, something like 30 gradual stops from 30mph. But that doesn't seem like much fun!

I think that model has the hill holder, could that maybe not releasing the brakes completely after application of something?

Good point!

Hm...did you spot something in there? I see rad overflow tank cap is missing... I didn't see Waldo...

Hi. I'd get on top of those MAF codes. Based on these descriptions I'd say when those codes come up, the ECU no longer knows how much air is coming into the engine which makes it tough for it to get the right amount of fuel in there. P1141 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit High Input P1142 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input It may not necessarily be the MAF sensor itself, especially if it's intermittent. It could be a bad wiring connection, harness, or ground back to the ECU MAF input somewhere.

The reseal kit includes all the rubber components to rebuild both front calipers. Reseal kit varies depending on what calipers you have...it also includes the Subaru spec'd red niglube grease.

I resealed mine with the reseal kit. I think the kit to do both fronts or both rears is maybe $30. The only time the reseal kit isn't a good idea is if water got into the piston/caliper bore area and pitted it; then it might just be time for a reman caliper. Right on, you need silicone or some other synthetic based grease. Petroleum based grease swells the rubber parts.

haha just yell out the window 'sorry can't talk now, it's ok, i'm just breaking in my new braaakkkeess.'

Yikes that's an expensive 'special tool'.

Ok, this article should be nice: 2.5 Liter Twin Cam Engine Vlave Adjustment

Hi. Oh that engine, 2.5L sohc is very reliable. It does have the possibility of the external head gasket peeping leak. Since the previous maintenance history is unknown, it is possible it got abused, low oil, poor quality oil, etc in the past. A couple posts have been thrown rods or other issues in 2.5l sohc but not a lot of posts. Of course with any mechanical device flukes do happen and you may have gotten a 'bad apple' so to speak.

Hi, sorry about that; I think I misread for my first post. How about timing, are you sure that's dead on? One tooth off and it'll have power loss...more than that it probably won't even start. It must be perfect. Also knock sensor can cause some power issues.

If it happens to be 2.5L, there's a complete detailed article on http://www.endwrench.com about it. Not sure if they have the 2.2L article...did '97 2.2L go to solid lifters? My '96 2.2L is hydraulic lifters.

Ok. You need to look into all those code's she's throwing. Triple check connectors, grounds, even if you're sure the connectors are seated, maybe pull them and make sure no pins got bent or anything. Battery connections are clean and tight?