porcupine73

Hm maybe the earlier legacies used a straight thread on the block with a sealing washer. I know on my '96 and '00 there was no sealing washer on the pressure switch, it had this whitish RTV like goop on the threads. Some things I saw said you can seal BSP-parallel threads with sealant if you want to seal against the threads, or use a sealing washer. Yes that is a preoiler there, that's a canton/mecca 1 quart accusump with a 12V solenoid valve. Also there is an amsoil bypass oil filter. No NOS yet, though that recent post about a wet shot sneaky peat setup has me thinking...haha

Typically if you buy an autometer or any other such pressure gauge it is going to have 1/8" or possibly 1/4" NPT male thread. You can search for mcmaster part # 4860K141 and 4860K151, or just jump to their catalog page 28. Right on, you'd need this part to adapt the block 1/8" BSPT female to NPT: First, the adapter set I have used in the past was sold by amsoil, stock #BP44, which were simply a set of adapters in a Stewart Warner box --> link Wherever you buy your gauge might have these adapters too; I have also gotten them in gauge adapter kits at pepboys. 4860K141 1 Each Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, Bspt Male X Npt Female, 1/8" Adapter, 1" Length Then if you want to keep the stock pressure switch as well, you need another adapter, i.e. 1/8"NPT male to 1/8" BSPT female: 4860K151 1 Each Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, Npt Male X Bspp Female, 1/8" Adapter, 1" Length IMPORTANT NOTE: I am not sure this is the right part #. BSPP is british standard pipe, parallel thread - not sure if this will seal properly with a BSPT male Also you might want to get some 1/8" NPT elbows, tees, nipples, etc or try to plan in advance how you're going to plumb it. There isn't a ton of room under the alternator to fit senders and such in down there, so I usually route the plumbing up behind the alternator and put my senders or whatever I'm doing there. I'm going to give a lot of information here about the fittings, etc, because engine oil is mission critical to the engine. You really don't want any leaks. For the 1/8" NPT elbows, tees, etc., I usually get the NPTF designation. These are also called 'dryseal'. It has a slightly modified crest and roots threading that makes it less likely to leak. You still need to use a thread sealant though. NPTF thread fittings are compatible with NPT thread fittings. For thread sealant, I just used teflon tape and didn't have any problems. I have also used the Permatex high temp thread sealant and it works very well on brass fittings, especially if you use their 'activator' first (though the activator is like $10 for a little spray can). You MUST let the Permatex stuff harden at least 24 hours before applying pressure I have noticed or it will likely spring a leak. Also with the Permatex, only the part down in the threads hardens. Any excess that you see left outside the fitting will not harden (just so if you use it and wonder why it doesn't seem to be hardening). You can just wipe off the excess. Do not apply sealant to the first one or two male threads, otherwise the sealant may end up inside the plumbing and contaminate your process fluid (engine oil in this case). For material, brass is fine. It may corrode slightly greenish I have noticed, maybe brass has copper in it I don't remember. You could go stainless, chrome, etc if you wanted but that's just more $$. When you assemble the brass fittings, you might want to research first the proper tightening procedure. These fittings should NOT be tightened to a specific torque. You are supposed to thread the fitting finger tight, then there is a specific range of TPFT (turns past finger tight) you are supposed to use. The correct number of TPFT varies on thread type and size. I think for 1/8" NPT&BSPT it is 2-3 turns but I would have to double check. The correct number of TPFT gives the proper number of threads of engagement for a leak free seal. (You need sealant because these tapered thread fittings have a spiral leak path between the thread crests and roots.) Mcmaster brass fittings will be fairly well machined for leak free fits. (I have noticed on black&galvanized pipe from home depot you often have to crank it another turn or two past the designated TPFT to prevent leaks; the threads just don't seem to be so good on some of them.) And that's about it! The rest of this thread is my rant about mcmaster. <rant>Also I love http://www.mcmaster.com They have a huge selection of hardware and such, they do not abuse you on shipping, have no minimum order, I have never ordered an item they did not have in stock, they sell in small quantities, plus they have several warehouses so if you live near enough to one you get your stuff the very next day even by ups ground. All these factors make them a great supplier for the hobbyist, though probably most industrial companies order from them regularly. McMaster typically doesn't tell you the manufacturer of the item on the web site. However I have been pleasantly surprised when I ordered something expecting a generic product and received a nice name brand such as Parker for fittings, Armstrong for impact sockets, etc. Some of their main competitors would be mcjunkin, msc, and grainger, and to a degree fastenal. Also McMasters web site is cleanly laid out, and they have a lot of technical information available, i.e. different metal alloys, material compatibility, fastener grades, thread types, etc, etc</rant> Here's a pic of the plumbing nightmare in my '00obw:

hehe..not sure about that panel, but in such a case my friend simply rivets roof flashing over the offending area and paints to (roughly) match.

Forgot to add, you can get 1/8" BPST to 1/8" NPT adapters from many places, including my personal favorite http://www.mcmaster.com I also got some from amsoil before, which were simply Stewart Warner.

Hi. Easiest way I have found (and done on several soobs) is to tee into the factory oil pressure switch under the alternator. Note: the threads are 1/8" BSPT (British standard pipe, tapered thread), so you need adapters if you are planning to use the US customary 1/8" NPT (national pipe, tapered thread). These threads are nearly the same and will thread somewhat into each other, but you are asking for leaks if you do so.

I on the other hand am thoroughly po'd..haha just kidding. I really don't know; I'm just going from what the publications say. I would have to think though that if the ABS light is flashing out a code, that it is for the ABS and not the AT though.... maybe the pub is incorrect or something. Just to confirm what model/year soob are you working on?

Oh man!!!! and I was saving up $10 a week to buy one in six years.....oh well it'd be obsolete by then anyway I guess.....

Cool! Where's the best place to get the whiteline bushings?

Hi. Ok, if it is flashing the ABS light when grounding pin #6, that is the ABS diagnostic connector. The codes you are getting on the ABS light would be previous historical/stored codes.

Excellent! AFIAK subaru.spx.com is the source everyone gets the subaru special service tools from, even the $$$$$$$ Select Monitor III

Hi, I think that's the wrong connector. There is a very similar if not identical connector for the ABS as well, but I think it is white (I think the AT one is black).

Yes thanks for the pic jamal! Those bushings are nice, and well greased! What kind are they? Yes you just remove the bolt holding that bracket in place, the bracket comes down and then slips off (it's a tab on the other end). Then you just pull off the old bushing and put on the new bushing. If your bushings come with grease make sure to apply liberally to help avoid squaking.

I'm pretty sure these are the diagrams for that connector the article above talks about, I must've looked this up before one time:

Check this out: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EATPh1Win04.pdf and jump to page 13 and it tells you how to read the codes for 1995-98 Legacy. It's a little cryptic though.

You just have to connect the right stuff under the dash and she'll flash out her codes. Let me find that endwrench article....

This kind of question is where cars101.com really shines. I was going to just copy and paste some relevant info but wow cars101.com is so rich in content it's easier to just go there --> http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2003.html#03features

Right, on the ones I have done as long as both wheels are at the same level there is no problem getting everything to line up.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Right on yes they are. They have different color dots i.e. purple on them corresponding to sway bar diameter, though all my sway bars are so rusty i never see any color on them.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OEM end links probably don't come with any hardware. The whiteline sets I've gotten all come with all new hardware.

Nice! Any pics of the setup?

So anyway in that case as long as it fits in ok it looks like it should work. The exhaust sound might be a little different/louder since the other resonator is not there.

Interesting. It looks like a cat but I guess maybe it's not. Must be another resonator or something. Anyway that does make this diagram make a lot more sense: btw, is that your garage floor? Looks nice, what epoxy kit did you use?

Interesting. If you don't mind not having a rear cat it looks like it will work.

Oh yes you didn't say if you were doing the front or rear (or both?). Either way it's similar for either. You can get whiteline endlinks for not too much more than new OEM.

That's a pretty easy job. You need 12mm and 14mm I think it is wrenches. Soak the nuts with penetrating oil to make them easier to get off. If you do it with wheels off the ground, I would lift the whole front under the front jacking plate. This way there is little force on the stabilizer bar and getting the new links in will be easy. If one wheel is off the ground it makes it harder to get the bar to line up with the link. Any nuts you remove are captive and should be replaced with new; they are good for one use only. Though plenty of people just reuse them without issue. Or maybe use some loctite on them. When you go to torque the fasteners, the vehicle is supposed to be with all wheels on the ground.