porcupine73

Yes, if you buy an axle/half shaft, it comes all assembled with both inner and outboard cv's, boots, clamps, etc. NOTE: The axle may not include a new axle nut and new spring/roll pin, which you should definitely use new ones. Out with the old axle... And in with the new MWE axle... ....axle nut..........................spring pin.... axle nut note: there is also an axle nut same part # as above but ending in '1' instead of '0'; one is called 'olive' one is called 'gold', specifically one is for the front and the other the rear I forget which is which; not sure what if any actual difference there is.

http://www.bsecorp.com/hds.php yes it looks like about CAN$3100+ depending on the options/parts ordered....

For such a cv wobble, if you had the wheel off the ground and spun it by hand, do you think you would be able to see the wobble in the cv, or would it be too slow/little too notice? This is an undercut (outboard) CV:

Dexron III is what the manual calls for that era, same as the auto trans. You have to read the bottle carefully though now for some statement on the back like 'also for applications previously calling for Dexron II/IIE/III etc' since Dexron fluids aren't licensed from GM to be blended any more. Another possibility might be the newer Subaru/Idemitsu HP-ATF.

Has the timing belt been replaced on this vehicle and has the valve lash been adjusted? If not, both are way overdue. The timing may have jumped a tooth on one of the cam sprockets. If the belt breaks it will likely bend valves and possibly ding pistons. That engine uses solid lifters with a screw and locknut adjustment for valve lash which is pretty easy to do. If any valve(s) are not closing all the way you can get misfire. The plugs on that vehicle ('00obw - i have one too ) are easiest to do if you remove all the air intake snorkus stuff (pretty easy&quick to get out), remove the washer fluid tank, and optionally remove the battery. Plugs for that engine should be NGK spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires from a Subaru dealer or some say magnecor works very well. Anything else used on a soob can be the source of misfire. Engine could also be really carboned up, a good seafoaming sucked through the fuel pressure hose connection at the top of the intake manifold could be helpful.

Right on, service manual! Forgot about that one. Can get used printed copies for earlier soobs on ebay. I like http://www.alldatadiy.com they have the oe subaru service info and TSB's by subscription. Of course there is techinfo.subaru.com which is very nice and you can order the manuals on cd. ..........block heater................................axle spring/roll pin

I used the bosch universal in my '96 too. It seems to be working well so far. I think the ~00+ are more sensitive to OEM front o2 sensor. My '00obw has a five wire sensor?

Hello. Here's some info on the Select Monitor III. It is available only to dealers, but there is another alternative available to others listed here: http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/specialToolInfo.jsp http://subaru.spx.com/sM.asp

hehe, yah I think I saw it in the owners manual. I was a little surprised by the same thing, I left the vehicle running and locked the door, figuring I could unlock it with the remote . But then it wouldn't unlock with the remote. Fortunately I was at my house and was able to get the extra key.

If the remote was already programmed to the vehicle (was working previous to the remote's battery replacement), then it could be this (from endwrench), though it's not for 99 forester...: Keyless Entry Battery Replacement After replacing the keyless entry transmitter battery on 1999-2001 Legacy models and 2001 Forester models, the transmitter must be re-synchronized with the vehicle. To re-synchronize the system, simply press either transmitter button (Lock/Arm or Unlock/Disarm) six times.

haha I hear you man! I don't know; if the vehicle isn't running and you're buying sight unseen I'd probably offer only salvage value or a little more, maybe 1/2 a franklin, i.e. what a junkyard would pay. Unless it happens to be a turbo?

It's possible I suppose but of course there are any number of other problems that could prevent a vehicle from running after being parked for 4 or 5 years. Of course getting all fluids and filters changed out would be a good idea, engine oil and filter maybe before even trying to crank it over. There could be a small squirrel family up in the air filter box or something too.

I would add any sensor, i.e. MAF, cam angle, crank angle, etc. Spark plug wires. O2 sensors (at least the front o2). Subaru OEM hoses, esp coolant, seem to be very high quality. Alternators for sure (Subaru OEM reman). Typically the least expensive source for OEM Subaru parts are shipped from Subaru dealers who sell parts online. There are dozens. Often times this way the price for an OEM Subaru part is not much more expensive than the aftermarket anyway.

Hi. Right on, it only works when the engine is off. Actually I don't think it even works if the key is simply in acc or on.

You might want to look for a 2.2L then.

Some H6 info from an endwrench article on water pumps

38913AA101 & 33179AA030 & 806735210 VISCOUS COUPLING CENTER DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY FOR 1999-2004 LEGACY OUTBACK MANUAL TRANS (with gasket, bearing and shaft seal) for cars produced up to 2 of 2004

True, maybe set your tire pressures per the door plaquard. Then when you get the chance measure the circumferences. The AWD and LSD rear diff are completely mechanical on this vehicle. Do you know which differential was replaced for the previous owner? (rear or center)? The center isn't really a 'differential' on this vehicle but sometimes people do call it the 'center differential'. Front diff is in with the manual trans.

yes that does sound like the typical exhaust to coolant HG issues.

It works now with the new alt though right? Maybe the voltage was too low before for the TCU to work properly. Or the voltage was too low to engage the solenoids in the trans or something.

Cool! Yes some dealers might be willing to sell tools. The ones I contacted before buying told me they don't sell tools. Or I've heard if you open an account with SPX or somehow get repair shop type status the prices might be a bit less than for individuals.

It might be warped. Woah those are available in metal? Darn I just bought the replacement plastic ones. I think that part is 11060AA070 HOUSING FOR THERMOSTAT FOR 1995-2006 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS (NON-H6 NON-TURBOS) ALL.

Hi. I think that part is 803926070 CRUSH RING FOR FRONT DIFF DRAIN PLUG. The correct size copper sealing washer from the parts store should work. Reusing them usually works but Subaru does say they are a one-time use only item. I have some of these at home, I think it says the size on it or I can measure it. I have all auto trans soobs though, but I think it's the same drain as for MT"s. I did read on some site this person says you can re-anneal the copper by putting the washer it on a brick and heating it with a torch until it glows and then letting it cool. Not sure if that actually works or not.