porcupine73

Hi. That's going to be a tough one. It might need unibody/frame straigtening. If you're in the U.S. you could try http://www.car-part.com for panels. Also sometimes OEM Subaru panels aren't too much from dealers who sell parts online, if they're available. Some dealers won't ship certain panels because of too many cases of damage in transit. I'll hotlink your pic here for convenience of other thread viewers:

Here's a post where someone was replacing wheel bearings, and replaced the front axles with napa units, then had vibration issues, put the originals back in and the vibration went away. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=112850

I forget exactly, I think it was about $68. I got it from subaru.spx.com you can get all Subaru special service tools there. They don't list prices on their site. I just typed up a little 'RFQ' request for quotation in Word and faxed it to them.

Yes an additional feature of the OEM Subaru timing belt is that the timing belt marks on the new belt are dead on.

Subaru 2.5L phase I (dohc) is both valve-valve (intake to exhaust) and valve-piston interference. 2.5L dohc phase I sometimes gets the exhaust blowing into coolant head gasket failure. Not all get it and with age/mileage possibility of failure increases. Do a search on here for head gaskets and you should find about 298572 threads. Right on, timing belt is due by time alone, and mileage now (due at 105k miles or 105 months), if it hasn't been done yet. Laundry list of items that are very prudent to change at that time, i.e. water pump, geared/toothed idler, cam seals, crank seal, and some other things while in there.

Some people say they loosen the cam sprocket bolts before removing the timing belt; not sure how well that works. I coughed up and bought the sprocket holder since I plan to use it many times: On '96 2.2L I just did, cramming a small prybar in this access hole worked very well for loosening and tightening the crank pulley bolt.

Hello. For '96 Legacy 2.2 n/a anyway, it says: Specifications, Fuel Pressure: Unregulated (33 - 40 psi) Regulated (23 - 30 psi) I believe 'unregulated' means full throttle (nearly zero vacuum), and 'regulated' means non full throttle (varying vacuum). Yes I have seen blocking the fuel return hose even for a split second jumps the pressure to 60-65psi. I believe the fuel pump has an internal pressure relief to prevent damage if any lines are blocked. Wet shot FTW! This post would not be complete without a pic hehe, let's see...here's the FPR:

If you want to check for excessive draw, you'd want to put a basic digital volt-ohm-meter in series with the battery. Either disconnect the + or - cable, and then put one lead on the battery terminal and the other to the battery. Start at the highest ammeter setting which will probably be 10 amps. Make sure the leads are in the right holes on the meter. If you read less than the next lowest range on the ammeter, which may be 0.4 amps (400 milliamps mA) then you can move down to that range for a more accurate reading. Your typical auto battery might have a capacity of 30-50 amp-hours when fully charged. So if you are reading a load of 0.1 amps (100 milliamps mA), then the battery would be dead after say 50amp-hours/0.1amps = 500 hours = ~35 days. There are other nuisances but this is a simple description.

Hi! In response to your lettered items: A: The Subaru water pump and gasket isn't all that much more than aftermarket ones if you buy from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online. B: I'm not sure you can do this job without removing the timing belt. You'd have to look at it I guess after getting the crank pulley out and timing covers off. Also not sure if the LH cam sprocket needs to be removed to get the water pump out; it might be a little easier with it out. C: http://www.alldatadiy.com has the procedure. It's fairly straightfoward though. Might be something free on http://www.endwrench.com I can check. D: No particular special tools are required here; the hardest part is probably getting the crank pulley bolt out and tightened. I just did this job on a '96 EJ22 auto trans and there is that convenient access point sort of under the throttle body where a pry bar can be jammed to block the crank from turning. I have pics if desired. If LH cam sprocket has to come off you need some way to hold the sprocket; the easiest I have found is the Subaru special tool but there are alternatives.

Hello and welcome. Vibration can be caused by a number of things including as you mentioned motor mounts. The aftermarket axle/vibration stopped in drive thing on the autos seems to be a bit controversial. I would get that NA*A axle out of there and go with a Subaru OEM reman from a Subaru dealer (find a good Subaru dealer who sells parts online to save over a local dealer), or check out MWE axles. Ok maybe it is just coincidence but there have been lots of threads with the strange vibration when stopped in drive after replacing an axle. Likely the battery was disconnected during the work; it takes the vehicle some time to relearn all its operating parameters after that. Otherwise try cleaning the idle air control valve and/or giving her a good seafoam treatment. Right on, I don't know what they mean by 'adjusted idle stop' since there is no such thing. The idle is electronically controlled via the idle air control valve. What they may have done is turned some screw that is now holding the throttle open slightly at idle. This definitely should not have been done. Or if they messed with some adjustment on the iacv I think Subaru says replace it.

Hello and welcome. Sometimes a custom driveline/driveshaft shop can replace it.

Not sure if this helps but here's a schematic; though this is for '96 EJ22 (n/a). I'm pretty sure I saw a note on endwrench to check F27 for backing out/looseness.

Sorry, I wasn't completely sure if we are talking exclusively about MT's here, or if AT's are included as well. If AT's are included, depending somewhat on whether you have 4EAT phase I or phase II (not sure about 5EAT's), various one-way clutches are employed to give/not give engine braking in certain gears. Maybe jake brakes could be fitted for serious engine braking!

Yes, anything with the 2.2L (pre or post 96), which did not have any typical HG failure mode. 96 and earlier is nice because engine is non-interference. They're not exactly speed demons but I don't think they're too bad. If you specifically want something with R12 refrigerant, you'd probably have to get back into the early 90's to find that on a soob. I don't know why you'd want R12 though because it is very expensive though some shops have some left, or you'd have to get the Subaru conversion kit to switch to 134A (whihc typicalyl includes new accumulator, o-rings, etc). Oh yes on the R to D thing, you should be waiting a second or two for the AT to engage into D before hitting the gas.

The special Subaru red 'niglube' comes with the caliper reseal kits.

That is the wrong torque wrench for this application. It will not be very accurate at the low end of the range. When set to 8 it could be torquing double that or more. Also if it is a clicker type it may be out of calibration. You want a low range 1/4" or 3/8" drive torque wrench for this application, i.e. up to 200 inch-pounds(f). Crank bolt torques varied from like 80-130 ft-lb(f) depending on model year etc. I think my '96 said 80 or so; my '00 said maybe 109 I think. The crank bolts looked identical to me. I went with 130ft-lb(f) on both hoping they won't back out on me (that's not pretty). I did see on endwrench though where they said they've seen a few crank snouts snapped right off from overtorquing the bolt with an impact wrench.

Hm...95 inch-pound(f) would be about 7.9 foot-pound(f). You'd need ideally an inch pound like 0-250 inch-pound(f) wrench to measure this torque. If using like a 150 foot-pound(f) torque wrench to try to read this value, it will be grossly inaccurate in the lower end of the range. One foot-pound(f) = 12 inch-pound(f).

Assembly lube example: http://www.torcoracingoils.com/Products/ProductView.aspx?id=b13fff30-cda5-425d-8b1c-b3299fb9413b

How long, in seconds, is the delay when shifting from reverse to drive (if you can measure in seconds with a watch that would be best). Some delay is normal, I forget the permissible amount, I think about 2 seconds. It has to engage/disengage clutches/bands/etc. The a/c compressor thing: often a particular make/model/year range will have one (or more!) failures, which of the failures it has, are the common failures. That is probably one of the (possibly many) failures on that GM vehicle. Rest assured! Ih aven't seen such a/c posts for soobs, plus GM dones't own any part of Subaru anymore AFIAK (now Toyota does though I believe).

Hi. Maybe go to http://www.endwrench.com, click archives, and search for 4EAT. They have several thorough articles for the 4EAT phase I, which I know has the info you are looking for.

Yes warming the exhaust for a couple minutes has always been the thing that got them to finally break loose after a good Kroiling.

Right on, so don't use vaseline for brakes! Some lubes...

There's a good article on endwrench.com about this issue. There's also some metal lines that can plug up or rust out.

hehe...yes my '96 has that tow hook recall open too. Says if you bump a curb or parking curb with the tow hooks the airbag could go off. Mine are still intact. I used these to pull out my max atv from deep snow last winte.r

Timing belt may have snapped.