porcupine73

Oh yah you're right!!!!! Sorry about that. Man I'm not sure why I thought that probably thinking of another thread. Let's see 2.2L timing belt article would be 2.2 Liter Single Overhead Cam Timing Belt Replacement - previous post corrected.

Hi. I can't remember if it was already addressed, but what marks on the cam pulleys did you use when doing the timing? There's a great article for the 2.2L free end wrench with lots of details... 2.2 Liter Single Overhead Cam Timing Belt Replacement

Hi. Crank position/angle sensor is on top of the oil pump pretty much maybe 4-5 inches above the crank. It's the orange item in the pic below. It's also disconnected in the pic below....

It might just be parts supercesion. Like for the tensioner I looked it up and it says "part number 13033AA040 was superceded by part number 13033AA042." The parts in that kit look the exact same as the ones I got when I did my '00obw timing belt.

I'm pretty sure black is the double row. I have my old ones laying somewhere I could double check.

Like with spark plugs, I believe the subaru service manual says if antisieze is used to reduce the torque by 1/3. It all depends on the torque spec. Like for the crank pulley bolt, the procedure is to apply engine oil before torquing; so no need to reduce the torque there. Other fasteners the torque spec is for clean dry threads. In that case applying antisieze or oil and then torquing to the clean&dry spec may result in over tightening.

Wow that toothed idler wanted to get out of the timing cover something fierce! For the red single row vs black double row idlers, yes when I ordered those OEM idlers earlier this year for my '96, I received two double row/black idlers. The black/double row can handle more load than the red/single row. The upper idler definitely appears to have more load on it; the lower idler not so much. I don't think the red/single row idler is capable of withstanding the load of being in the upper position long term. It is kind of hard to tell from the pic if the upper idler is red or black. Unless the red idler were replaced with black at some point in the engine's life, or came from the factory with two black idlers, then it is reasonable to figure the upper idler is red, since a black one is definitely in the lower position.

Plus it is a great excuse to pick up some tools (i.e. mityvac ) Sometimes on the rears (on the newer multilink rears anyway; not sure about the earlier ones) the lower caliper bracket to bearing housing bolt can benefit from like a 60 deg. offset wrench as there is no way to get a normal wrench on it or a socket (flex socket can get at it but seems awkward to use there).

hm...not sure about the thread size and pitch; I was just messing with mine for toe alignment. I'm pretty sure the tie rod end took an 19mm flare nut wrench and the jam nut took a 17mm.

Right, most front rotors these days are at least vented. The brembo blank rotors there are a good value. The hardest part I have had in soob brake jobs is getting the caliper bracket to bearing housing bolts out, especially if you live in a rust/salt belt area and/or if they haevn't been removed lately or were overtightened or some combination thereof. Other than that it is a pretty straightforward job; a Haynes manual is adequate for this. Just their brake bleed order for soobs is wrong.

Hiya skip.... I'm pretty sure the idlers are backwards there. The idler that failed looks like the single row type...that position needs a double row/black idler. I think they were reinstalled reverse of proper position?

Yes I think the 'stamped impeller' is the 'high velocity' version or something, which can be used in place of the cast impeller pump if desired. Some water pump comparison pics....

If your upper and lower idlers don't have a lot of freeplay in the bearing, but maybe just feel raspy, you could maybe use grossgary's regrease method; that's virtually no cost.

Right on, if the wheels are 5x100 you should be good. Some newer soobs especially STI's have 5x114 or something like that; those would not work. If you use oil or antisieze or anything on the lugs, you need to consider that most OEM torque specs are for clean dry fasteners. Typically with antisieze you need to reduce torque by up to 1/3. Hi 86BRATMAN!

2.2L is very solid. Let's just say most of the posts about Subaru HG failures are not about the 2.2L. Granted, any engine with enough mileage or poor maintenance can have HG issues.

Whoops sorry about that man. I was thinking of water pump for my '96 legacy (the 'cast impeller' design); that was about $71. For '00obw 'stamped impeller' it was more like $95 for OEM.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com lists the OEM part numbers, if those are the part #'s you need.

If you're looking for aftermarket parts, possibly the kits on eBay. At that mileage, if you're planning to keep the vehicle, I'd replace all the idlers, tensioner, definitely the water pump, the cam seals, crank seal, reseal oil pump and replace o-ring, make sure oil pump screws aren't backing out (on my '00obw three or four of the screws were very loose). I'd compare the cost for OEM vs aftermarket; for this job it might be a couple hundred dollars more for OEM but in my view if you're keeping the vehicle for another 100,000 miles very worth it for the peace of mind of oem components.

Not sure; but if you're in the U.S. the OEM pump can be had for maybe $70. Are pumps from other sources much cheaper?

Ah ok. I'm getting confused. I thought the original problem was it wouldn't crank at all via the key, but would crank when jumpering to the starter solenoid. If you've got it cranking via the key (with AT selector in neutral anyway, but not park then I take it?) If you have it cranking with the key, and it won't start, then you need to double check everything you disconnected when pulling the motor. i.e. cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, any other harnesses, etc., and that no pins got bent in any connector when reconnecting. Maybe also try starting while holding the gas at like 1/4 or 1/2 to see what happens.

Hi. Also I can't recall if you said you already did it, but did you try starting it with the key, but the shifter in neutral? And congrats on pulling the engine and doing all the seals! That sounds like an involved project. The neutral/park safety switch thing on the autos, at least the ones I've seen, is on the RH (passenger) side, right where the shifter linkage connects. I might have a blurry pic of one here somewhere....

Yes I knicked a few studs on mine when pounding the rotors off. I believe it was an M12x1.25 rethreading die and it worked perfectly with a socket to clean it right back up. Without it I couldn' get the lug nut on because some of the threads rounded over.

This is a schematic for a '94 Legacy; yours should be at least similar.

Ok, now we might be getting somewhere. If it cranks like normal with the jumper method, but just isn't starting, then the starter is fine. If when you have the solenoid wire/connector hooked up to the starter, and you get no crank when putting the key to 'start', then it's something upstream of the starter, such as ignition switch or neutral safety switch or maybe even a fuse of some sort. If you try the jumper method, with the key in run, I think it should start.

Hi ok. When you say "when I touch the wire on the starter that goes to the batt. and the lil tab that sticks up on the starter, I touch then with screw driver and it tries to turn over.." Do you mean with the above method the engine is cranking, just not starting?