porcupine73

Oh ok. I don't know about that o-ring. I have noticed some o-rings that have shape when new just look like flat washers when removed from service some miles later.

Hi Scott Do you mean the o-ring between the oil pump discharge and block? There are a few styles. Earlier models AFIAK used what looks like a plain o-ring. EJ25 phase II's use what is sometimes called a 'mousehead' style o-ring (shown in pic below).

Have run 20W50 but not 5W50. The problem with trying to compare various viscosity oils even of the same brand is that the additive (antiwear, etc) packs/quantities might be different. Higher viscosity oils naturally have a higher HT/HS high temp/high shear which can give better wear values. I think some people specifically looking for 5W50 run Agip. Shell helix ultra might also have something in that vis range. I'm always wondering if hi vis spread oils use a lot of viscosity index improvers VII's to make it happen. I pasted the values in excel so it would be tabular for easier viewing. I assume these are ppm:

Are you seeing coolant leaking from the bottom of the timing belt cover? Only other coolant things in that area are maybe the coolant bypass return to water pump hose, thermostat housing, lower rad hose... There is at least one block plug for coolant in that area - any leaks from there? It's the large plug in the bottom of the block where you would put a block heater.

You don't need any sealant on the front diff plug because that is straight threaded with a sealing washer; it does not rely on leaktight threads.

Yes that often spells disaster for a water pump's seal esp if it has miles on it. The gasket needs no dressing/rtv/sealant. Are you sure the mating surface to the block is clean and not knicked or gouged? Was an OEM water pump used?

For the 2000 OBW with manual transmission though the OEM front o2 sensor is going to run more like $130. I see the OP has already procured the OEM sensor...excellent! 22641AA00A OXYGEN SENSOR FRONT, A/F FOR 2000-2001 MANUAL TRANS LEGACY OUTBACK (non-H6)(only for vehicles with 2 sensors, this one is in the front cat) The one for auto trans is about $74; I think it's so much less because there was the recall on the front o2 sensors for auto trans tip cracking off and getting lodged in the cat, so Subaru probably got a good deal on the huge quantity of that particular sensor needed to handle the replacements.

Can you find the invoice price somewhere? Keep in mind of course many automakers refund a 'hold back' to the dealer after the vehicle is sold so invoice isn't really what the dealer ends up paying. I"m not sure if Subaru does this. I'm not sure but didn't the EPA or whoever recently revise their testing/calculation procedures for mileage estimates to bring them more in line with real world results? Typically in the past the estimates were a little high AFIAK.

mmm...I don't think it would be any easier with the engine out. The engine really isn't in the way of changing the front o2 sensor. Make sure to get an OEM sensor for the front; no aftermarket on this one. This is a 5 wire sensor on a 6 position connector. Some '00obws had the front o2 sensor replaced or replacable under recall; so you might want to check that out.

The EGR codes can be a pain. This http://www.endwrench.com article has some good info about EGR troubleshooting: Subaru Emissions System Service

Hi. One might be 'green' and one might be 'gold'. You can only notice the colors if all the grease is wiped off. Here's the diagram; it's for rear disc brake for '00obw but maybe it gives the idea; same looking pins but different noted color.

Yes if the outer tie rod end is loose you should be able to feel the play by shaking it right where the jam/lock nut is, which is where the tie rod threads into the outer tie rod end. There is an inner end too that can get loose. For ball joints I think you get the wheel off the ground, then use a long pry bar to lift under the transverse link and watch the balljoint for any up-down freeplay.

Ah ok. P0420 is purely an emissions code. Typically for soobs it is either the rear o2 sensor, or the front o2 sensor. The front o2 sensor should be an OEM from the dealer. It can also be exhaust leaks. Sometimes people using aftermarket exhaust systems/cats get this code periodically. Soobs are fairly sensitive it seems for this one.

Maybe contact them and ask it if it is still suitable for applications that called for Dexron II/III. I imagine it is; they just can't print it on the bottle anymore because GM has not renewed licensing for blenders for that product. The web page link you posted still says Dexron II/III, but it's hard to see on the bottle label if it says that as the image is small. I can see Mercon V listed.

Yes the steering gear, tie rod ends, etc should be checked for looseness. Clunking over bumps esp in turns without looseness can also be an inherent thing on certain soobs; there's some articles on endwrench about different power steering hoses that can help dampen it. Outer: Here's an image you might use as an avatar? hehe

They may have removed the upper radiator hose while doing the work. On my soobs I have noticed the coolant pipe coming off the engine is often corroded under where the hose connects. Sometimes leaving a very rough uneven surface which could promote a leak path.

You need to read the ODBII code. Otherwise it's just a guess. Here's the NGK plug chart code descriptions:

The one with the single row of bearings (red) goes on the bottom. The double row bearings (black) goes on the top. Subaru now just lists the double row (black) for both positions. The bottom has less load on it; hence I guess the single row bearings was sufficient there.

I saw someone say it is an access port for engine service or something.

Look at the label carefully. GM is not renewing Dexron licenses anymore, so products will start saying 'for applications formerly calling for dexron' etc. (They can't really say Dexron without the license). Or check out mobil1 web site it will tell you the applications for all the products.

The other axle nut part # has a 1 at the end; I think the other is the 'olive' color; this is the gold color. I don't know what the difference is other than color but the service manual calls for one for the front and the other for the rear.

Right on...: Give not that which is holy unto the dogs, neither cast ye your pearls before swine, lest they trample them under their feet, and turn again and rend you. :Matthew 7:6

My guess would be it can run petrol or LPG.

Subaru calls for Threebond 1105 (can find here though I see you're in Australia...), or alternatively 3M T-3 silicone which is probably available at the parts stores. I have used sealant (permtex ultra grey) and have not used sealant and haven't had any leaks either way. You should use a sealant because the threads are tapered, sort of like threaded pipe. The taper is what keeps the plug from being driven all the way into the diff. It's not a straight thread like on a bolt. So even when in at the ideal number of threads of engagement there is still a potential leak path between the thread crest and roots.

Did some searching and found out "the Subaru B11S was unveiled at the 73rd (2003) International Geneva Motor Show." The front grill looks very much like that used on the Tribeca. http://www.motortrend.com/features/auto_news/112_news030304_sub/ Combining sophisticated sporty design with ample interior space, the Subaru B11S represents a new type of four-door coupe. While it was developed to demonstrate FHI's future design direction and its strengthened design capabilities, the Subaru B11S also promises superb driving performance, ensured by a five-speed transmission with VTD (variable torque distribution, Subaru's unique, electronically controlled torque distribution system), symmetrical AWD, and a horizontally-opposed six-cylinder engine.