porcupine73

Are you turning the key from off to run (going past just the 'acc' position)? http://www.cars101.com has a pretty good write up on the procedure for all soobs.

A couple things that came to mind.... I saw some endwrench article not sure if this is useful http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ErraticInsideNov07EW.pdf Not sure about all soobs, but on my '94 there is some relay box or something in the rear right taillight housing area:

hehe that would work! Kind of a dry sump around the wet sump system!!!

Yes typically you would remove the glove box and the filter or filters are behind there. I think I have an image here somewhere let me look... There's also an article on endwrench.com This is for a 2000 Outback:

Yes there was just a big write up on delta cams in subiesport or sport compact car I think it was last issue. http://www.deltacam.com/

Looks like it should be a fit, if both vehicles have ABS. Same OEM part #'s (with ABS) anyway... 28052AA010 HUB, FRONT LEFT OR RIGHT FOR 1990-1999 LEGACYS WITH ABS SYSTEMS ONLY (includes LS) 28052AA010 HUB, FRONT LEFT OR RIGHT FOR 1990-1999 LEGACYS WITH ABS SYSTEMS ONLY (includes LS)

Sometimes the vacuum bleed kits include a small tube of silicone grease to help with the sucking air in around the bleeder issue. For not too much $ I made a homemade setup kind of like Skip's out of an old 10 gallon portable air tank and one of those compressed air powered vacuum pullers from harbor freight.

Some articles: Proper Fuel Injector R&R Prevents Damage Legacy and Impreza Engines with No Injection Pulse #1 Cylinder

There's a good article on http://www.endwrench.com about troubleshooting EGR systems... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf

Yes 2.2L is very solid. Ditto on checking for torque bind. Replacing the oil seals and stuff doesn't add too much time on to replacing the timing belt so I"d just do it then. Unless it's a gusher, adding oil periodically isn't too bad I don't think. Buffalo NY ftw!

Yes take a look at the left rear for a broken spring. Vibration from snow/ice is usually because the snow/ice has built up in the wheel somewhere putting it out of balance until it melts or flings out.

Yes '98 would be a phase I. The image I"m picturing you're talking about looks like this....this is from my '96 2.2L though...

So is it bad to run your soob in severe donuts for say 20 seconds at full throttle? Engine oil temp peaked at 195F and trans oil temp at 160F. Coolant temp hit 206F. It climbed fast during that time..

Sounds like bushings for sure. Short throw would be an add on, on top of new bushings.

hehe...yes it looked like the Oakville area was getting pounded. Buffalo here, not too much so far but it is still snowing. A few inches so far...found some abandoned parking lots for some fun this afternoon!

hehe, the gas tank won't explode. Well shouldn't anyway... this endwrench article has some info about the two different systems..

Maybe the vehicle that one came from had the enhanced evap with the canister underneath by the fuel tank?

Many parts store rebuilt units just get the faulty component(s) replaced and resold. That leaves a lot of other components that have lots of age and miles on them.

Good info and insight nipper. Also Subaru in general is a very reliable automaker, so in general their OEM parts are of known good top quality. Now we all know there may be exceptions but in my mind Subaru OEM parts are a good value (when obtained for a good price i.e. Subaru dealers selling parts online). Of if you are talking about particular upgrade parts such as whiteline etc that is a different matter; they are intended to provide a different performance than OEM.

Hm that is an interesting book. It says the cast impeller is preferred and flows three times the comparable stamped impeller style. So it's the cast impeller that is the 'high velocity' version?

I'd say not really, unless you are doing some frequent hard braking like circle track or something, then typically you would upgrade the front and rear.

Very carefully. haha sorry that's not that funny is it. Primary methods for the home user are probably injector cleaner such as amsoil redline lucas techron etc xylene acetone toluene naptha in the fuel tank, or a rebuild place such as http://www.witchhunter.com There are those motorvac jobs that run something through the fuel rails; not sure how much benefit there is.

Oh yah good point!!!

hehe...the axle discusions get almost as heated as the oil discussions. All I know is I have seen at least a dozen posts over time where soobs develop some wierd vibration when stopped at idle in drive or reverse after installing one or more parts store replacement axles. And I have seen people say the vibration then went away when they installed OEM Subaru axles or reinstalled the axles they had on originally. Obviously it doesn't happen to every soob that gets parts store axles. Anyway I'm just throwing it out there as a possibility. It very well might not be the original poster's issue.

If an aftermarket axle is the issue, it's not a big deal if you can deal with the vibration feeling. If you or the dealer can confirm one or both front axles is not OEM, you could ask for it to be replaced with an OEM reman by the dealer. Parts price on that vehicle would be ~$170 for us to buy (meaning their price is less) which they should be able to eat.