porcupine73

First question would be tune up. Do you have new NGK plugs, new air filter, good plug wires, fuel filter, driveline fluids, etc. What kind of driving do you do? Like high speed freeway driving? High speed, esp over 65 mph really drops down mileage. Depending on driving style and type 22mpg may not be all that bad.

2,2L ok well that might be free-wheeling/non-interference, and if so, no damage was done. Maybe someone knows what year if any 2,2L's became interference?

There is a good chance of bent valves and/or dinged pistons. However there is a chance that no damage was done. A cylinder compression test would help identify if any damage was done (of course a new belt would have to be hung on first). Unless you happen to have a 2,2L and if '98 2,2L was non-interference (can't remember off hand what year if any those became interference).

Good call on having already replaced the driveline fluids at 12,5 that is so often neglected. I would have all these replaced again at this service. Or at least the ATF. And brake fluid.

Hm...I have to answer no on that one. haha that is a great story! Yes too bad that was before digital cameras!

hehe yes I meant I don't know much about lift kits, but it seems allied is mentioned often and the kits look sturdy and thorough. Wow some of their weapons replicas are pretty impressive too. How about mounting one of those on the roof rack to go with the new name?

I'm sure Blu will be OK. Allied Armament kits are pretty thorough right and well respected I think?

haha yes those names would work. I had a little time so I thought I'd make you up a plate to see if it's a go:

Hi, this is from a '96 Legacy right after turning the key to run:

Cool. Maybe they would be willing to take pics as they go? Is Blu going to get an updated name such as 'mean Blu' after the work is complete?

Hm..this sounds like a nice project! Are you going to take pictures as it progresses?

You go slow when making the turns. It should make it at idle or with a little throttle. In manuals torque bind I believe is caused by repeated/excessive overheating of the silicone fluid in the center differential, which can be caused in a few ways including mismatched tires or improper towing. Then the silicone fluid becomes thick all the time, and results in binding in turns.

There was a note in endwrench about that.

Not sure if this will help... From the KYB 2006 Passenger Car Catalog: SUBARU Impreza Outback KYB GR-2 Front Rear 1993-01 Sport Utility Wagon w/ABS Right Hand 334255 (9) 334109 Left Hand 334256 (9) 334110 1993-01 Sport Utility Wagon Exc. ABS Right Hand 235065 334109 Left Hand 235066 334110 Note (9) is "New Part Number;Available Fall 2006" AGX struts are also available for these models.

Does Subaru do that 'hold back' thing with the dealers, like where the dealer gets $1000 or whatever back after the car is sold, but keeps the apparant 'dealer invoice' price higher? Also I hadn't heard of it before, but there is this 'Subaru VIP' program you can get through various groups which I guess gets you the vehicle at dealer invoice price? But you have to be a member of that group for at least 6 months to qualify. A google search shows up a number of qualifying groups.

That's so true. A good shop is hard to find. I found the maintenance stuff at http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/index.jsp

AFIAK Subaru service does not have to be done at the dealer for warranty to remain in place. I've heard Kia is really bad about that. Of course that dealer insists they do the work, this kind of work is a gravy job - doesn't take long to do and they make $$$ of it. Let's see...what actual work does '05 Forester 60k service entail (not including inspections of fuel hoses, brakes, etc)...replace engine oil and filter, replace engine coolant, replace fuel filter, replace air filter, replace spark plugs, replace brake fluid, rotate tires Any decent shop can handle that work. The benefit of having it done at a Subaru dealer is you will get OEM Subaru parts. If you go elsewhere, make sure they use NGK or other Subaru recommended plugs. Also if you go to other than a dealer for the coolant, make sure they know how to get any trapped air out, and don't let them use dexcool or all makes/all models coolant in there. Yes as grossgary said this is a good time to get all fluids replaced if it hasn't been done already - differentials, transmission, steering, etc. Inspect ashtray....yes that's a good one. Top off oil, drain wallet.

It sounds like it is overbraking the rears/underbraking the fronts. Not sure what would cause that?

Did you jumper out the evaporator thermoswitch, or did you jumper it so the compressor just ran constantly when the a/c was on?

Hm...yes I have an '00obw in the same general area (Buffalo) and yes it is rusty underneath. I used this diy undercoating kit from jc whitney that uses your air compressor. It sprays this tar like stuff that is really sticky and then dries to a rubbery coating. It has been working fairly well. Other than that probably any rust proofing place might be able to help. Around here, a number of people like to cross the peace bridge and get the Krown rustproofing in Canada. I think their stuff is similar to amsoil heavy duty metal protector, which is what I use in the doors.

Yes the aftermarket rotors on the vehicle when I bought used did not have the 8mm holes either. So an amount of torching and sledging were required to get the old ones off. For brake pads, did they list specifically for an OBS and not just listed as for an Outback?

The only issue I am aware of would be any problems with having the propeller shaft disconnected from the trans output. Like whether it would stay in place. If you can get past that part, then yoinking out the rear diff, and somehow hacking off/dismantling the half shafts at the outer joint might be possible.

It sounds like you are removing the caliper bracket to spindle/wheel bearing housing bolts. You need to remove these bolts only if you are planning to pull off the rotor. These bolts are often tight and hard to remove. Even with a good air impact wrench, heat, and penetrating oil, they were hard to get out, and were in bad shape so I replaced them. Also, yes, WD40 is not a penetrating oil. For available retail penetrating oils many like pb blaster. If you are just replacing the pads, you need to remove only the bolt for the lock pin on the caliper. This is probably 14mm as you had indicated and is the bolt at the other end of the caliper than the bleeder. Then the caliper will swivel up on the other pin (guide pin). For impact wrenches, some people like electrics because you don't need compressed air. Good electrics such as the milwaukee can work, and are great for lug nuts, but it would be hard to find an electric with the torque capabilities of a good air impact. I have the ingersoll-rand 2131qt and it has gotten out many a tough fastener so far.

Right on, GM uses the 'dexcool' OAT coolant. This type of coolant Subaru specifically says not to use. This is the stuff that has caused glooping/gelling issues in some vehicles, especially if any air is getting sucked into the system. The closest parts-store available match to genuine SUBARU coolant is BASF G-05, licensed to Zerex and some others.

I don't think Subaru ever said what percentage have HG issues. Many of the phase I 2.5L engines are up there in mileage at this point since they're like at least 8 years old now. There was an offer from Subaru to extend the warranty to 8 years or 100,000 miles if the conditioner was added per the TSB and some other conditions, but I think that was on the phase II's. If the HG's need replacing, typically you want to get the new style OEM HG's. These are multi-layer steel. But you don't want some old stock from the shelf. Not sure about aftermarket Subaru HG's; I did hear someone say they had been using cometic gaskets in Subaru's with good results.