jon38iowa

I don't know if your car has one, but mine has a MAF sensor. My car had a rough idle despite a total rebuild! Cleaning this made all the difference and no more rough idle. Look it up here on search, much info available.

Are you positive the front 02 sensor is good? Mine went bad the fuel consumtion went way up!

I agree 100% with those above, definately get it changed! I do mine every 25K, because I think heavy city driving qualifies as severe duty. These transmissions are very expensive and to me changing the fluid is cheep insurance. I do my own and its easy. It also less expensive, since I do it twice in a row to get it completely changed out. BTW many auto parts stores will accept your used tranny fluid.

It is possible to clean it, though it can wear out over time.

Changine the pcv is easy, just a wrench an a few turns and your done! I would also recomend doing as above, and having all the sensors checked.

I think the entire airbag system uses yellow wiring.

I assuming the price you list includes installation? I replaced my clock from Subaru $40.00 and ten minutes of my time.

The pcv is a component part of the engines ventilation system, moreover, if it is old or not working properly, it may affect performance. I am not certain where your is, mine ( 2.5) is to the left of the intake and is near the bottom of a large rubber connecting hose. It costs roughly $10.00

I don't see airfilter or pcv valve replacement on your list. I recomend changing these as well, that is if you haven't done so.

I have had the same exact results with my '99. Last winter I even tried to get stuck going through some really deep stuff, but no luck, it went right up over it! I am actaully looking forward to the first snow here, that is, when the car runs again.

I am interested in knowing how this type of cable breaks? Many many cars have gone under my feet and I have never had one break. Is it poor manufacturing? If so then I better get one for mine.

I called today, and was informed that the engine," had a leaking rear main seal." Furthermore the shop owner mentioned in regards to the cold start up knock, it was not possible to bore the engine any farther, as it was already close to its maximum tolerance, moreover, he said that four new slightly larger pistons had been ordered from Subaru. Looks like next week before I get it back.

I wish in hindsight I would have gone to the dealer on this one, and simply had a new short block put in. I knew from the begining the engine would be sent out, because my shop does not rebuild engines. The machine shop rebuilt the engine and I am told this is comparable to CCR- New pistons, gaskets, etc, replacement of anything not within factory tolerances. If it runs good this time around I will be satisfied, though, I certainly won't have major work done this way again.

Here's an update for those interested. The Forester had its engine (ej25 sohc) rebuilt last month, moreover it has had fluid leaks ever since. Despite a new oil pan and seal it has continued. More disturbing though, the engine has developed the cold start up knock their so famous for. Anhow it has now been back at the shop for the past two weeks; So far this shop has been very kind and agreed to take out the engine and send it back to the machine shop for another rebuild, and they think maybe it needs a crank seal or the seal between the block. Under warranty ofcourse. This entire thing is somewhat disappointing considering I spent upwards of 5K! I live here in the midwest and who knows what next weeks weather will be, so I am a little bummed :-\ I am currious to know what their remedy will be for the knock, and will inform all here when I get it back.

Maybe my is experience is unique, but the BBB Helped me recover $ 200.00 after other atempts failed.

I went to AAMOCO (Oldsmoble) once and only once! What a joke; They charged me top dollar for simple work ( engine mounts), moreover, they overfilled my transmission and substantantialy! When I returned to ask them to drain the excess, I was talked to as if a 15 year old. There reply was," oh that wouldn't hurt anything." Funny, GM thinks differently. No my family and I will never go to another AAmco again. You have my empathy. I agree with someone above, unless it is almost free of charge work, no one is going to learn on my cars.

Hey a least your still here to tell the tale!

Not that it would apply to your car, but everything I've read about the B9, says the engine in that body is way underpowered.

I just had mine ('99 Forester) replaced a few months ago at a respected auto glass shop- $293.00. Sad thing is, this is the third windshield! The second was only a few months old when I got pelted in construction zone by a semi. I am now even more careful than before, and avoid all large, rock type trucks. So far good results with this one.

I wish mine did, the one shown looks much easier than mine. My MAF (simillar to a triangle shape) slides into the housing and is secured with two metal closers, but they resemble more of a rivet then screw.

Does anyone know: How does one remove the MAF from its housing? My car definately has one right behind the Air filter, however, it looks to be put on with strange looking attachment srews. I think read somewhere something about a Torx tool requirement, but what size attachment? Thanks for any imput!

Others may think differently, but I had Uniroyal Tiger Paws put on mine this past summer. So far I love em- great soft ride, no hydroplaning and pretty reasonably priced. Haven't been through snow yet, though even if they are only marginal in the snow I would still be happy, because I wanted these for the soft ride quality.

Your problems sound minor to me, though annoying for sure. Never the less, the price they are willing to give you sounds generous to me, is the basic model what you want?

Everything you said is right on the money! I bought a device that checks the battery and alternator,moreover, I use it before I take any long trips. Had an alternator go unexpectedly one time, non Subaru. I don't like being along side the rode.