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jon38iowa

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Everything posted by jon38iowa

  1. Thanks again to all! I think I will look at taking off the throttle body for a good cleaning. If I do, is is it required to replace the seals, even if they look OK? The engine has 140K, moreover, I had the fuel system cleaned and I run a quality cleaner throught it every 4 months. I replaced the: Coil, plugs, wires, air filter, and o2 sensor. Would the cam/crank sensor affect performance without the cel coming on?
  2. I agree with Nipper! This, having had a very simillar sound from my 2.5 ( required a rebuild). Good luck regardless. John
  3. I was not refering to the MAF Sensor but the rather the two that are attatched to the throttle body. Recently I had the block completely rebuilt.However, it still doesn't run quite as smooth as I would expect,morever, its not bad ( a little course), just not up to my standards. I want it to run like it just rolled off of the showroom floor. I noticed before I replaced the PCV that the air box had a sticky film all over it. It is also probably all over the intake mainifold. Fuel economy is excellent. Thanks for the tip on the spray cleaner, I will buy it.
  4. I am going to replace the aging injectors on my Forester; The PDF manual shows that to do so one must partially take off the power stearing pump. Is this really a must? Or, could I maneuver around it? Its cold here, and I want to do the least amount of work possible. Does anyone know: If the sensors in the intake are bad/ weak/ dirty/ will they send a signal to the computer and will this cause a cel to come on? Can I remove these sensors to clean them with carb cleaner? Thanks in advance for any advice!
  5. I agree with Gary on the engine. This, having to have mine rebuilt recently. My mechanic and I did a search and it was shocking the lack of quality 2.5s available. One salvage yard wanted 3K for an unit with 60k miles, moreover the warranty was a joke- 30 days.
  6. I have the same issue with my Forester.Where is silicone available by the gallon? Thanks
  7. I agree! Moreover, I recomend also complaining in writing. Don't let them get away with the old, " thats just how Subarus are." My friend has a '00 outback, with 80k, 2.5, with nary a tick.
  8. Thanks, but I have not had the axles replaced, though I have had the boot cover (inner passenger side) replaced.
  9. Sorry Manarius: I forgot to write it in, yes it was replaced as well.... If I put the car in nuatral it does stop the shake.
  10. Last week I got my Forester back after having the block rebuilt(133K).It runs great, plenty of power, etc,.However, I still notice as before, a little shake in the front end as I'm sitting at a stop. No dash lights come on, and the tach is steady. Last time I looked at the intake (Plastic box in back of it) it was sticky with a gum like residue. Recently I replaced : Fuel filter (ran a cleaner through the tank), wires, coil, and the much talked about front O2 sensor. My question is this, which one of these listed would likely help the most: Replace- the fuel injectors the sensors to the intake manifold Spray the intake (internal) with Seafoam. Thanks in advance for any pointers!
  11. You can put duct tape or any tape over the damage, moreover, the body shop will have no problem removing it as they will likely sand the entire door for repaint.
  12. My Forester has a stupid plastic composite radiator. I am told these can fail and it doesn't take much. I don't know if yours is simillar or not, but, if it is then I recomend going with an after market all metal unit even it is more costly.
  13. Are your electric fans (behind the radiator)working? Every now and then I hear of people having issues with these on the Forester, though, mine have always performed well.
  14. I am currious as to what the symptoms are of bad valves; That is what your issues were leading to the valve job?
  15. I bought my Forester with very simillar damage to the back passenger door. It costs $600.00 at Suabaru; They did an outstanding job.
  16. I bought one of these CDs from ebay; It seem to me to be a good value for the price. Lots of information and pictures, though it is probably not as comprehensive as good Haynes Manual, the information provided is very complete.
  17. Brucey how much of job is taking apart the doors?Will anything additonal need to be purchased- clips, etc. I was impressed with this raammat product and will be ordering this coming spring!
  18. Its most noticeable under acceleration. The engine lacks smoothness, not rough running, but just not quite as smooth as I would expect. I am thinking about replacing the sensors in the intake, and fuel injectors. The Forester is not as well insulated as the Leggacy or Impresa, thus I will be working on this issue as well.
  19. I recomend silicone ( found at the auto part store), moreover it is good for the rubber seals.
  20. Eventually I would like to address both the engine and cabin. But, for now since it is almost winter here, I will focus on the engine.The Air box is tight and I replaced the hood insulation. Thanks for the info, I will save this for future reference!
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