jon38iowa

Did the disconnect,30 minutes. All is back to normal. Thanks again.

In that case, I'll try your way first.

Ok, thanks, I will.

Today I replaced the knock sensor, easy enough. But, I forgot to reconect the Air Sensor ( disconnected for convenience). The cel came on, and even after reconnecting it, it remains on. I performed a search here, but was unable to find specifics on how to turn off or reset the CEL. I assume disconnect the battery. Anything more, please speak up. Thanks!

I got my new replacement sensor today(original might be ok but the car is getting old). Where is the knock sensor on this engine? 1999, Forester 2.5 SOHC. Thanks!

This kind of abuse to a car has always baffeled me! A person spends 20-30k on new car, but won't spend an hour and $ 30.00 to care for it,three times a year. Penny wise and pound stupid if ya ask me.

I think the coolant evaporates out of the overflow. Mine's the same way, I have to add some every few months(both before and after engine rebuild). The overflow is not really sealed, that is I can see a small gap around the rubber hose that connects to it. And,Obviously the engine compartment gets rather hot.

I am very glad for your luck, but I wouldn't take this chance myself. To me, Subaru drive train parts cost a fortune, moreover, if one relies on a mechanic the costs sky rocket! Tires are really cheap insurance to me:burnout:

'99 Forester SOHC with 145K. No the code was not reset. I might try doing that this weekend. I assume the plastic box next to the rear inside bumper is the evap box. But, where would the purge solenoids be? Thanks for the endrench links, however, they never open for me, just a blank page.

No (but I did run until the light came on last tank), and rust doesn't seem to be any issue with the filler tube. The car runs fine otherwise.

Sunday, the check engine light came on:eek: I went to Auto Zone today to have the code pulled; The gentleman found a PO440 code and his computer stated it is one of 4 things: Loose gas cap, vacuum hose on the engine, purge or vent solenoid, or EVAP canister. Obviously I checked the vacuum hoses' and gas cap, which are perfect. Does anybody here have any opinions as to the likely culprit? And, where are the purge solenoid and Evap canister located? Is there substantial harm to the environment/engine if it takes awhile for me to get this addressed? Thanks a million for any pointers!

Another way to tell if your Converter is toast is: A minute or two after starting the car, reach under and feel(or close to its surface) the converter. It should be hot, regardless whether the rest of the exhaust system is or not. If not, then chances are its seen better days.

Got it 1/2 done today! It is not a hard task, but the bottom two bolts are real pickle to get at,as they reside next to the frame rails.

No theres no leak, but I still haven't got over the oil found on the Plug threads( I worry). Thus I purchased the Subaru gasket kit with all the various seals and gromets. Last time I changed valve cover seals I accidently striped out the bolts(honda engine). Sometimes less is definately more.

Tomorrow I will be replacing the valve cover gaskets. What is the torque for these? Thanks!

but I am not sure what you did to the "panels" Is this the door panels? My only concern here is if the Dynamat absorbs water or moisture. I would really like to a ride in your ""quiet"" Forester!!!!! The panels(doors, B-pillar,rear gate,over rear windows) get the same treatment as the floor pan- You apply layers of the Dynamat(like tar Paper) followed by the foam acoustical material. It is designed for automative application and should not retain liquid. If you want a good tutorial of how to install, look up Raymat- Rick has a great step by step, photographed instruction section on his Web Page. Just remember that weep holes must remain open, and everything internal(wires, rods ,fuel rails, etc,) must remain as you found them! That is, still move freely, or unhampered by the newly installed materials. John

You also might consider applying a product called Silver Bullet. It looks compelling and I will be giving it a shot this fall.

It is very labor intensive, especially for someone like me who learns as they go. Unfortunately though, Subaru doesn't put much insulation on these Foresters.It took roughly the equivalent of an entire Summer of Saturdays to complete, mostly doing one panel at a time, moreover, doing the floor pan took two full days. Despite the curse words and hand cuts, I would do it again. It requires use of several materials- A sound deadener( sometimes multiple layers) and foam accustical layer. Up until recently much of what I Purchased was through Ray Mat, out of Oregon. However, Rick( very nice guy) has had difficulty with his Supplier, and it thus forced me to seek out and buy a Dynamat product. This particular Dynamat I found through a dealer in Canada named B-Quiet, at a substantial savings over the American Dynamat. Addionaly I found and purchased insulation for the Firewall, this helped a lot with keeping the engine noise suppressed. It has run up a tab of around $ 600. 00 in materials. In addition to the sound quality improvement, I have noticed a much warmer car in the winter! It get cold here in the Midwest.

That price seems reasonable to me, that is if everythings solid. I love my Forester! They are a little noisy, however; I spent the Summer sound insulating mine with awesome results- Almost like the sound quality a of Caddilac. John

The next Ball game it might be worth hanging around the area to watch it (this tow away scam) unfold. If nothing else, it will likely be the same towing company that removed your car. If there was not a Do Not Park Sign on this property I would guess you'd have a pretty good case against them.

I changed my oil yesterday- OEM Filter. This one didn't look anything like a fram, moreover, it felt substantialy heavier to me than a fram.

Had mine (heated) last year, about $400. installed. All the existiing moulding was re-used, but a few days later the top piece came flying off- They were easily able to re-seal it.

You will garner here, opinions that raise valid points on both sides of this equation. My take having done it both ways is: Unless you have teanagers driving this car, I would skip this form of insurance. Instead, I would put the same amount of money and then some into a savings account, for future repairs. It would be unusual for you to have any major problems before 100k, with this model and year. Obviously with good care and maintenance of course.

I bought the Napa wires for my Forester eight Months ago, $ 55.00 magna core set. Last week went to change the plugs, one of the wires crumbled in my hand! I have removed these type wires mores times than I want to remember, so I know what I am doing. I will buy other items from Napa, but not wires again. John

I went with KYB all four , last year. I have been very pleased. The ride quality is very close the originals imo. The shop tried to push Monroes on me, never again. Had these twice on other cars, very unhappy with both sets. John