Rooinater

it already has no cat it came that way from sequim, wa. plus i don't go through emissions where i live anyhow. if i remember correctly the muffler looked fairly new. i'm pretty sure it doesn't have a throttle body spacer, i was looking at some, but was curious if they really worked and were worth the effort. i was thinking down the road when i start actually getting towards the max towing load i'd get a set of headers.

the half ton designation of a truck doesn't mean it can only carry a 1/2 ton within it's towing capacity. actually it was a ton at 2k lbs at an "optimum" towing capacity. the suzuki samurai could tow a of a half ton and did up and over snoqualmie pass twice. i don't think i'd be worried about a vehicle with an extremely longer wheelbase, just shy of 4 times the horsepower and well over 4 times the torque... :-p and payload for the bed of the truck is just over half a ton right around 1300lbs...

yep, it's tbi just like my dad's 350. got any tips for performance gains? hey, where's the fun... no argument! hopefully it's just a waterpump gasket gone bad. it appears to be leaking at the mating surface on the passenger's side or the hose mount... can't tell for sure, will have to tighten up the hose, check, then start tearing apart if it doesn't fix it. not sure on the engine designation i'll try to check when i'm up in marysville this weekend. the manual doesn't have the decifer for the vin, any idea which postion is the engine designation on the chevy. i have the factory service manuals on the way, but they won't be around for a week. the truck is stuck at my mom's house till i get the clutch working and the leak fixed... and it needs an alignment... but i can't wait to get her going. the drive from sequim to marysville was a little sketchy with a inop clutch... we got lucky with the ferry and we weren't put on the ramp...

hmmm... does it have a clear title? if i could get my truck running it would only cost 300 dollars to drive down for the weekend... i'm sure i could convince the g/f to go spend a day in california and split gas... hmmm... but that'd be at least a month away. cab bed and frame can't weigh much over a 1/2 ton and would probably work on my little trailer... hmm...

well i've had it for 2 weekend's now... i just hadn't taken any pictures and posted them yet. it was a straight trade for the suzuki samurai, which i knew of at least $1500 to $2500 worth of work that was needed to be done if it was going to stay as a daily driver. The guy wanted a wheeler and i wanted a truck with space for camping gear, bikes and the ability to tow. The truck is a 1991 Chevy S10 extended cab with a factory 4.3L V6 and manual transmission. which has atow rating of around 5500lbs. It does presently have a clutch problem that is a work in progress. We fixed the hydraulic problem with the clutch. It had a jerry rigged hydraulic line that included a non-hydraulic fitting, which sucked air and did not allow the system to build pressure. Now we have to deal with the mechanical portion of the clutch problem. you press in the clutch and the clutch doesn't disengage... So we are pulling the tranny to replace the clutch with a HD Clutch for towing and remachine the flywheel. According to the guys at olympic 4x4 when people have their flywheel resurfaced on s10's it's common that it gets machined wrong by adding a step. which makes the clutch not disengage when the clutch is applied... it also just started leaking some anti-freeze at the mount for the water pump, hopefully just a waterpump replacement... in progress and hopefully will be up and going at the end of the month. i finally decided if i was going to be needing to put money into something i needed to do it to something more practical to my lifestyle.

would you want the frame and cab?? i'm slowly looking for one to give to my step dad. that way he could transfer everything from his k5 blazer and start wheeling again... i know it'd be a long ways to come pick up, and probably not worth it...

well... do you have the '85 and older rear housing?? i have 2 spare housings and sets of rear axle shafts andqw drums along with a complete rear end(gotta keep that though)... granted the spares have surface rust and need cleaned up... if i ever make it down i'm sure i could bring one or two. i haven't opened the front end yet. but eric gets one of those birfs if they are good. but i'll be buying longs shortly. so any of the short vids done yet?

well i already have spare rear axles, a winch, i should have spare inner shafts and at least one birf... chromo output shaft, fully rebuilt hub to hub on both axles. along with various other parts... we'll see i've got to get her on the trail here first... then i'll have to find a trailer... i ain't driving the toyota all the way down there and expect to actually drive back...

awesome, you both work at the same place and rent your trailers and tow rigs.

:slobber: great pics! one day i'll go... up for a double hitter in a year or so... fordyce then the rubicon from loon lake??

awaiting video... :popcorn: and i know the feeling about not getting to wheel often enough

i used to have one. sold it a few months back. great trucks when they are running and as is they are great dune runners. we drove it all over the smaller dunes and some of the larger ones at glamis. a/t's aired down and know how of driving in the sand was all that was required. sounds like a project!

haven't done the backend yet, that's next month or november then i'll be tearing that apart to replace the wheel bearings and seals. i would guess so, but the manuals aren't worth a crap for these vehicles unless you have the factory service manual. i have a link on my home computer that has the microfiche for the samurai. send me a pm and i'll check it this weekend when i get home. presently stranded in everett till payday on friday to replace the suzuki starter... it randomly died, and tapping the solenoid quit working... and it already has the clicky starter fix... lame, towing a trailer otherwise i'd just push start it.

depends on what the questions are, i have a sami as my daily driver and know a bit.

some ideas for setup... this guy doesn't have the center strap but it's a fairly well done setup with tractor links on the rear of a suzuki, this will also give you an idea of how much flex you can achieve, especially if you put that in the rear also here's the thread if you want to find fordzuki and ask some questions on his suspension, when i talked to him he said he did it fairly cheap with tractor links. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24930

um, definately not stock sami supension. they didn't come with rednecked 1/4 elliptical suspension. way more flex and fairly safe if they are setup correctly. otherwise they are a train wreck and a hazard. a few things to consider with that suspension setup, hopefully you are redoing that link system, extremely unsafe and redneckish. setup a triangulated 4 link or a regular 4 link to give you lateral stability and remove the hard mount to the axle and install a shackle with a heim joint connecting the spring to the axle. other things to ponder are a bumpstop along the spring to control upward travel and stabilize body sway on side hills, and a pulley winch system above the axle to prevent the 1/4 elip from unloading on a downhill and tumbling you @$$ over tea kettle all the way down a hill. without that you are in for a real pucker factor on the downhill side of a trail. at least use a short limiting strap from the center diff to a frame crossmember. the winch setup is fairly cheap, $60 harbor freight 3k winch some cable and a pulley. also with that much of an angle on your steering you'll get a lot of unwanted bump steer, you should look into a high steer setup or just go hydraulic.

:popcorn: updates requested on NWW also... time to bob a wagon, there's gotta be time to finish a buggy...

looks good!

@$$ over tea kettle to get it back on it's tires, it wouldn't come out with 3 winches pulling straight on. the last you tube video link has the recovery. A 3 rig pull, one as an anchor to control the rate of roll, then 2 at the bottom to pull it over. the aftermath was oil and fluid leaking everywhere... including literally running out of the air filter... cleaned out the mass air flow sensor then ran the oil out of the cylinder, cleaned the plugs and started her up. she ran the rest of the weekend . but what do you expect it's a 22re. the toyota buggy sat upside down for a good 20 to 30 minutes before it was recovered. the anchor, money mark later in the day end over end rolled at the moon rocks a couple hours later. he tried to drive out of a nose wheelie.

money mark changing position to anchor redbeard's recovery. money mark on anchor, centralgrand and another nww in a formula toyota yanking redbeard out of the can opener.

we went out riding from rider's camp (south of cle elum) from thursday to saturday, then to reiter (GBNT). no pics from my aunts camp at GBNT/ reiter area. we rode tripod flats, shoestring, 695, moon rocks, funny rocks and several other trails. and my atv is now for sale... we met up sith some friends and some other nw-wheelers at the rocks, and we got to watch barret be in his first rollover into the can opener. enough chattering here's some pics.

A lemon is a lemon, so you've proved you've had several lemons. As for the rust issue, my subaru has more rust. Dents or a roll over will detroy the body before the rust will put it in it's place. A cheap body w/title off craigslist or a formulatoy body will fix that problem. it's all in how you pick your vehicles, inspect your vehicles and or for what purpose you buy your vehicles. Does building a toyota cost money, yes. Is it more expensive than building most other vehicles, no, unless you don't know how to turn a wrench or get dirty. My subaru will have about the same amount of money into it as the toyota by the time i'm done building the yota. Which will be more capable??? the toyota's are very capable in stock form with a GOOD driver, you can put a bad driver behind any vehicle and the "vehicle will suck." Since this is a rivalry between soob owners and toyota owners (eventhough we all seem to still have soobs) why don't you buckle up and challenge zap's "mediocre" toy (as you put it) against the awesome supercapable soob you have built.

the subaru rear axles are that way up here. and they make you pay for the shipping and core charge along with the axle, then they refund the price of the axle. eventhough you have the lifetime warranty and the part in hand at the store

there's the quote, then you say maybe some suspension and limited gearing options, that must be strictly enforced... because the xj has known POS np231 tcase, and in order to make it somewhat "stronger" you have to get the slip yoke eliminator kit, which costs as much as a doubler kit for my toyota or more... not to mention that to get better gearing out of the np231 you have to then buy a measly 4:1 kit. for nearly the same cost as buying a doubler and a gear kit for my toyota, you'd have a 4:1 tcase while my toyota would have a 10:1... not to mention if you swap out to a bigger motor with a cherokee you might as well go spend the money on an atlas case to replace the pos chain driven transfer case. the toyota's on the otherhand is a gear driven case that has been proven to last behind V8's. jeep xj slip yoke elliminator 269.99 4:1 gear kit 999.99 total 1269.99 toyota dual case adapter 369.99 4.7:1 gear kit 399.99 used second tcase 100.00 total 869.98 hmmm... with the savings from building the tcase alone to more than double what you can to build a np231, you can get a ring and pinion set with master install kits from porc off of the pirate board. then with the xj if you have half a brain you'd look into a set of these http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=261131 i'm with junkie on this one, do you know what you are arguing, especially trying to say that there is not a probably with frame stress and cracking with xj's. maybe you should reread your posts before you say their is no way to construe that you said that.