Rooinater

but once again... you go back to the cost to strength ratio... how much will it cost for you to buy a toyota or f-250 just to remove it's front end? it'd have to be a tacoma or later... you can pick an 86 to 95 wide track toyota solid axle for a hundred bucks, springs for 50 then say another 50 for the rest of the parts... so 200 dollars versus 5000 to 10000 dollars to part out a better offroad vehicle... hmmm... lets think about this... if you are already going to a non-subaru part, you might as well get a part that will perform while acutally 4wheeling. not to mention they are 4.10 gears in the yota 8" axles... so if your using legacy diffs, you don't even need to swap out new gears. just weld the diff and go. early toyota front ends are also known as garbage, they are fairly decent for offroad racing but lock them up and they tend to start breaking. and yes if you don't build up your axles to match your cummins and 44's your asking for trouble. rock buggy's swap in dana 60's but they go with heavy duty axle shafts and heavy duty drive shafts. you can break anything if you don't build it right.

yep, done that a couple times. when it happened to me, i barely feathered the throttle and was in a straight line... it just popped, i wasn't even at a walking pace...

hmmm... picture is a red X in a box. but if you meant in the middle of the shaft, it happens, done it twice, i know ken has had it happen before.

in a subaru, i'd say it's not worth running an open in the rear. a toyota is a completely different ball game. a toyota has suspension flex and solid axles, which helps keep the tires stay on the ground. there's less of a need to have a locked differential. As for leaving the rear open,... a lot of buggies do run air or electric lockers in the rear so they can do front diggs for turning. basically lock the rear ebrake, disconnect the rear driveline (usually with a quick release lever in the cab or the dana 300 can be modded to disengage the rear shaft inside the tcase)) burn out with the front tires and turn left and right to get the front to slide over. other than that, i wouldn't want the rear to be unlocked. usually it's better to have the rear locked and the frontend unlocked for turning issues. but no one makes a driveline disconnect and there isn't an option in tcase of a subaru. best examples i could find http://youtube.com/watch?v=SLLhLAIzODg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I8f2xLnJzg

gearing is part of the cause, it multiplies torque/twisting power on the axles. subaru axles aren't made to withstand the gearing and that size of tire. minimal gearing selection and serious finess is the only way to delay breaking them. before the tcase mod the only axles i replaced were because the boot tore and water got in. like it or not a solid axle will be your best bet with a reasonable cost to strength ratio.

geared hubs, yes. subaru cv's, no. they are called portal axles, fairly sweet invention as far as axles go, generally speaking those types of vehicles are solid axles, but not all. http://www.portal-tek.com makes some extremely beefed up applications of those style axles for "real-world" offroad use.

looks good!

spotters are overrated. if you know your vehicle you shouldn't need one till the rocks are the size of the tires and even then i rarely use them. if your spotter sucks, you will be in just as bad of a situation or worse than knowing your tire placement and vehicle roll point... looks like a fun ditch...

3 threads into one... this will be interesting... :popcorn:

you are already crossthreaded to hell... might as well put the update in all of them............

that i did, alot of bling

i didn't see any IROKs,... i saw some TSL's... but, there is a lot of blinging show rigs.......

if you have them paid for... i'll be driving from taco-town to marysville tomorrow at 12:30pm. not sure if i have time tomorrow, but i do make the drive a couple times a month. the next time i'm driving up north is a couple weekends, around may 10th after i get paid.... that's right next to my g/f's dad's house 128th and pacific area and one of my friends from the marine corp lives a couple blocks away 152nd and pacific area... i'm in that area everyother weekend...

what's with the cross posting? thought that wasn't allowed..................

so when are the actual offroad pictures showing up?? :popcorn:

stock jeeps maybe... after the real jeeper has gone through the Just Empty Every Pocket routine... those wouldn't have a chance, top heavy and limited flex. great ground clearance, great for military invasions and great gearing though.

Actually call them up, and tell them they need to rewrite the requirements if they don't want to include the brat. Personally i'd have to say they are retarded. You do have a front and rear differential. That is what the spider gears in the front end do. It just so happens that yours is within the transaxle. the differential, differentiates the power from the left and right wheels, your front spider gears differentiate the power. You may not have a seperate differential housing or the proper term, is axle housings (not differentials, the housing does jack crud for differentiating), but it does not specify in that section of the flyer. you have 2 drive shafts/axles in front, if you want to really push your luck. not to mention a bed, selectable 4hi/lo. if they are that much of tight @$$ hicks, let them get all broke back mountain in their own way... not to mention they are recognized as SUV's by fourwheel mag years ago...

if i was closer i'd attend. you running the subaru buggy? 50 mile or 100 mile? what class do they put that thing in?

it's good to see people are getting out and getting those soobs dirty! :headbang: it was getting bleak there for awhile. :clap: looks like it was a good run!

one side always comes off easier and it's different with each car... remove the lower shock bolt, jack it up, if it's still stubborn, see if someone will push down on the tire and then pop it off. if they've never been off they could be rusted up a little. so after you massage them off, remember to grease or wd-40 the stub shaft before installation. another way if you can't get that other side off. lower the diff down a little and move it to the opposite side, it should come off, but that's last case senario before the hammer needs to come out.

22r carb, it's not the fuel injected 22re, but it will be propane injected asap. staying with the 22r, 1 for semi-fuel efficency, 2 for the reliability, 3 it might just become a formula toy comp rig, unless i 4-link the rear, then it will just be a formula trail buggy and not a compitition rig, or i'll find another toyota and convert it to a formula toy. this is what a formula toy is if your wondering. there's only one semi-local comp, and that's when we-rock is in ellensburg or if they get to come to ellensburg... http://www.formulatoy.org/ basic breakdown of a formula toy, is you take a toyota frame, engine, tranny, tcase, leaf springs, axles... with strict rules for modification, then take a hendrixmotorsports.com tube chassis and weld it to your frame. toyota instant buggy...

no truck??... or no lifted subaru...

depends on what you want to do with it... mine... the tires cost $150 more than i paid for the truck....... so plenty, i don't have an exact total, just know that i need several thousand more to get it up and going to the specs that i want. then another grand for the propane injection... then after i roll it... another grand for a formula toy body. eric and ken paid like 1500 for their's, and they were wheelable from the get-go. mine needed some TLC, hence why i paid very little. but eric always finds the best deals. i don't even want to actually tally how deep i'm into the cost portion....

figure i should up date my to do list and all that good stuff. not that anybody reads this section of the forum... :-p some plans have changed, but most have stayed fairly similar. Dimensions and specs present and planned: approx. 111" wheel base 28" to the belly 75" to the roof 79" bulge to bulge up front 80" bulge to bulge in the rear 39.5 iroks beadlocks Engine Bay 22r propane injected tc modified high pressure saginaw steering box pwr steering cooler larger pwr steering resivoir new radiator, w/dual electric cooling fans high amp alternator Cab and frame bobbed rear frame stuffed winch up front rear winch internal cage tubbed and trimmed fenders Half doors suspension seats Transmission and transfercase 5 speed forward shift dual cases (front case 2.28, rear case 23 spline 4.7 twin sticked) crawl box and tcase fully rebuilt flatbelly Frontend modified rears up front modified chevy shackles 14" travel bilstiens w/shock hoops front square drive shaft fully trussed and rebuilt front axle 5.29 gears 30 spline longfields Aussie locker hi steer w/flat pitman arm Hydraulic assist 2" spacers Rearend Waggy 5 leafs V6 widetrack axle housing fully rebuilt rear axle housing truss 5.29 gears spool chromoly rear shafts 14" travel bilstiens 2" spacers (eventually down the road, 1/4 elliptic, dual triangulated 4link, 10 more inches off the rear of the frame) i'm sure i missed a thing or two, but that's the basic outline.

now you just need to start packing parts!