Rooinater

new box for the back of the bed will be ordered this week; as long as i don't get taken too bad by the DOT for transfering the title on my atv and suzuki tabs... it's 49" wide, so it will sit 1 inch over the forward bed mounts on either side! so it will be narrower than the cab and only like 4 inches wider than the frame rails each side, which will keep it from getting as banged up on the rocks and such.

i'd come and help if you didn't live so damn far away! my dad is doing the welding, i've just been doing the cutting, fender work and rust stripping this last week. i'm still on some weight restrictions, so i can't lift anything over 40lbs. but i can't use a stick welder to save my life... dad can do the welding till i can afford to get a mig. with luck i'll have it 4 linked and pane powered next spring and possibly a trailer by then... i'll be needing a trip south for some rocks, fordyce or rubicon... only with sheer luck though... i was kind of wondering if anyone was noticing all the recent updates with my spring break

some more pics of the winch with the grill on.

don't have any recent ones, so i won't bother posting them... they are all 6 months old or older, for rock shots... they've all been seen once or twice or a half dozen times... so i won't bother... but good shots so far.

some pictures of what is being worked on at the moment. since everything else is being chopped and stuffed to keep the best possible center of gravity, and clearance... the winch will be no different for the approach angle. the space hogging manual fan has been scrapped and the bottom of the radiator is being moved back an inch so that the winch can be really stuffed back. the mounting of the winch is still a work in progress. but i'm pretty stoked on how the placement is working out and here is a teaser... still not sure what to do about the rad. core support, will probably just tie it through the winch plate by bolting it into it... not sure yet we will do with it. as soon as i get the electric fans installed i'll be wiring up the new cooling fans. pwr steering pump is leaking... so i'll have to upgrade that while i'm at it. anyone know a shop that can drill a toyota steering box for hyd assist, without screwing the box up?

some updates

yeah I was going to do the clearancing on the EA81... but the fuel lines and brake lines run right there. I didn't feel like rerouting them

lol... i'd rather build it then drive it. that way it can go where I want it to.

i try... any info needed for toyota's can be found here... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180 all toyota owners should be familiar with it. tons of modifications and general info for helping a person build a toyota.

those little winches are on sale for 60 bucks with a coupon at harbor freight, and 69 bucks without the coupon...

didn't get much done today... formed the inner fender for the passenger side and we got the ifs steering box located... hopefully we can get that fully installed tomorrow and get the rear frame welded in, weather permitting...

the majority of the truck axles come stock with 4.10 diffs. if you swap a legacy diff up front and a transfercase in, you could use the stock truck axles. as for the toyota rear diffs from the trucks, all you need to know.... it appears 8" diffs come in 4.10 and up, 7.5" toy diffs came in 3.9. options with an 8" rear diff are innumerable, i'm not sure about lockers and such for the 7.5" diff info from the http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum toyota FAQ... don't bother asking any questions over there unless you have thick skin... Toyota Rear Axle Widths: 55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug 58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug 56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug 60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners 66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks Differentials – Gearing Gearing..... with a 4 banger and single case stock 4.10= 31 or smaller tire 4.88=33 inch tire 5.29= 35 to 38 inch tire. 5.71= NOT RECOMMENDED FOR REAL OFFROAD USE Originally posted by DSI ---------------------------------------------------- 83-older 4.11 diff's are 37/9 and are 8in 4cyl style diff's, in 84 they switched th the 41/10 ratio, any time you have more teeth to a pinion the stronger the diff will be, reason being: more tooth contact/more teeth contacting the ring gear at one time. This is the same reason 5.71's are very weak, 6 teeth, 5.29's have 7, 4.88's and 4.38's have 8, 4.56's have 9 and 411's have 9, 410's have 10, and 390's have 10 ---------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by TNToy ---------------------------------------------------- If you have the axle code of your vehicle, it is easy to find out what size differential, what ratio, and what pinion set-up you have. This will also help if you are hunting for a particular unit off another vehicle. The axle code is in the vehicle ID plate under the hood or drivers door. The axle code is 4 digits: a letter followed by 3 numbers. Example: G292 = 8.0" 4.10 final ratio 2 pinion Code: 1ST R&P SIZE 2nd/3rd R&P RATIO 4th DIGIT PINION SET-UP F = 7.5" 07 = 3.900 2 = 2 pinion G = 8.0" 08 = 4.110 3 = 2 pinion LSD 10 = 4.375 4 = 4 pinion 14 = 4.875 5 = 4 pinion LSD 25 = 4.556 28 = 4.300 29 = 4.100 31 = 3.91 38 = 3.42 43 = 3.56 54 = 3.90 66 = 3.07 . . Code: Ratio Ring/Pinion Color Crawl:Ratio 3.42 ...42/12... Purple ...31:1 3.90 ...39/10... Red... ...36:1 4.10 ...41/10... Pink.. ...37:1 4.11 ...37/09... Orange ...37:1 4.30 ...43/10... Blue.. ...39:1 4.37 ...35/08... Green. ...40:1 4.56 ...41/09... Yellow ...41:1 4.88 ...39/08... White. ...44:1 5.29 ...37/07... None.. ...48:1 5.71 ...40/07... None.. ...51:1 . . Differentials – Info General Toy diff info including identification with pictures. http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs "LPH" (Long Pinion Head) vs "SPH" (Short Pinion Head). by Drew Persson http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...23#post1478223 Myth Settled: 8.4, V6, 4cyl, ALL 8" - by Brian Ellinger http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=228681 Pluging ABS sensor hole in late model diffs http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=587522 Differential picture identification by 4RnrRick Toyota 2 pinoin 4 cylinder 7 1/2" diff (27 spline) used on 2wd and some celicas http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthrea...750_driver.jpg Toyota 2 pinoin 4 cylinder 8" diff (30 spline) http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Images/Diff4Cyl.jpg Toyota 4 pinoin 6 cylinder 8" diff (30 spline) http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Images/Diff6cyl.jpg Toyota Land cruiser high pinion 8" diff (30 spline) http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Images/DiffHP.jpg Toyota 4 pinion 6 cylinder 8" 3rd from a '96-00? 4Runner (30 spline) http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...&postid=436184{broken} Toyota 8.25 or 8.4 diff Taco / T-100 / Tundra (30 spline) http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthrea...100_tundra.jpg Differential Mounting Differences Between Different 3rd Members http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...52#post5331552 Differential - Shaved, Trussed, and Armored Axle Collection http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456309 by TheBandit http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228464 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154306 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93356 Differential Stud Upgrades - BEEF!! http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=485834 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490532

yesterday, we got the rear axle housing pulled, the 3rd member pulled and started getting the V6 axle ready for installation. we have to swap over the brake lines from the old axle and re-bend them to fit. got about 1/2 the bed's rust buffed off with some metal conditioning pads and painted it with some flat black rustoleum. we also played around the steering box mount, found about where it's actually going to go. monday we have to pull the shims from the axle perches. other than that we didn't get much done.

marked for tubbing cutting started cut mocked up steering box hi-steer

got some more work done today. started the tubbing of the fenders and the setup of the hi-steer, so we can mount the steering box. the actual hi-steer arms will come back off when i get the parts to rebuild the front axles... is our stimulis checks here yet? it'll be dry enough tomorrow to get the steering box mount welded to the frame, the rear frame box welded on and probably the quick release mud flap mounts welded on. then we'll start the real fun process of sealing the fender tubbing. we will be using aluminum sheets riveted to the body instead of steel welded back in. stick welding body sheet metal is an unrealistic idea and i have a sheet of aluminum from an old skateboard ramp lying around. i'll post the pics from today tomorrow.

prepped for paint painted... cut off... there's a few pics...

well, wednesday we got some progress done. got the frame prepped to put the hi-steer on, removed a bunch of brackets from the frame, painted the hi-steer kit... a lot more to do today. as soon as i get on a computer that i can download the pictures from my camera i'll post them up.

we do have one... well maybe not...

at least i know i'm not the only one that gets a few curve balls thrown in here and there while i'm trying to fix a project.

but then you're spending a mass load of cash on the hubs... the transfercase itself isn't that hard to deal with. it's the front diff that will cause a problem. for the tcase you'll have to cut the tunnel and stuff it up, bend the transmission shift linkage, then resheet metal a tunnel. it's the same thing i'm doing to the toyota, and the same thing john was supposed to do to the subaru... i would of gained 4 inches or more to the tcase with the soob.

it'll be awhile till i get around to building a prerunner... still have a long ways to go with building the toyota for crawling and trails...

talk about unsafe! snatch block her up at least...... have you seen what happens when you also push those cables and snap them!!! make sure you lay a heavy coat or a winch weight on that line, so it deflects some of the kinetic energy downwards and doesn't chop your head off...... those cables store a lot of energy, when they break they are disasterous, double the weight is not only a good idea, it should be mandatory for safety... another reason to go synthetic line also... synthetic doesn't snap and spring like a cable when you break it or the winch... good luck... your car weighs 3k on the flat ground, how much do you think the pull weight is up an embankment?? :eek: otherwise looks good... remind me to stay back a 100 feet or so from you winching!

yeah the next big project after the yota is either a yota or ranger prerunner.... i'll have a first full tank mpg #'s by the end of this week and another tank or 2 average by next week.

there is more than just piston damage. the piston is easy to get ahold of, other engine parts are not. and the price of getting the parts after they have sat on yamaha's shelf for so long keeps going up... way past the value of the bike. might fix it eventually because it did get 80 to 110 MPG and is street legal... but can't do over 55mph... but for around town and local quick runs to the store... it'll save on gas money...