86BRATMAN

It would be worth your time to check the banjos on both avcs oil control valves. I've seen filters in them drop out and make the valves stick in the advanced position. This was on an 05 legacy gt, but the longblock is the same as the Baja you're working on.

Maybe they were thinking of using the 22e heads on a 251/3 shortblock, which is marginally better than using a 25d shortblock. I almost want to seak out that post and snap some pics of the 251 and 222 heads I have just for proof lol.

Complete waste of time and money for zero gain. Get some delta cams if you want more power out of the phase 2 engine.

Replace the banjo bolt on the oil feed. They have a small filter screen that becomes clogged over time, the filter can be removed from the banjo bolt or replaced with a new bolt with filter. The turbo sounds like it is about to fail catastrophically, change it before it does or the Baja will need a new engine as well.

Great idea guys. Let's pull the maf out of the air stream on a turbocharged subaru so it reads less air coming in and leans out the mixture. No tune required to blow more ringland.

Alway go by the factory marks, it's not uncommon for the belt to be slightly off at the end of its lifespan. But it could have also been installed slightly off at the last change. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/4th-gen-sohc-2-5-timing-belt-replacement-pic-intense-188814.html Here is a pretty good write up for the timing belt on a phase 2 sohc,. While the engine is different, the procedure and alignment marks are still the same.

I don't know of anyone who sells the roller for the new style tensioner. It's worthwhile to get the whole timing belt kit, with the tensioner and everything included. The newer style tensioner can be damaged very easily when compressing the piston back in.

Absolutely always change the idlers. They are the more common fail point in the timing system. I've seen more bent valves because of idler failure than actual belt failure. Even though they may look good while installed I'd bet the bearings are noisy when spun uninstalled. The water pump is recommended to be changed as well. Subaru changed the recommended interval in the 90s, some were on a 60k mile schedule and then they upped it to 105k miles. For my own vehicles I try to do the job around 80k just for piece of mind.

90-98 for the ej22e. 99-01 ej22 is a completely different engine. The timing belt tensioner changed here in 97 to a new style, which is most likely what you have on yours as well. I would recommend pulling the timing cover to see which type you have before ordering. If you have the new style one integrated tensioner the timing kit would be 97/98, if you have the old style bar and separate roller type tensioner the kit would be 90-96.

All of the parts you're looking for will be the same for the ej22e.

The transmission will not be an issue, especially with the lift. A stock height 4spd 4wd ea81 tunnel can hold an ej 5mt awd trans with a bit of hammering in a couple spots.

It's the timing belt covers that are a tight fit between the rails on this generation. It's been done without notching by a couple Australians but the plastic timing covers literally touch the chassis rails.

You most likely encountered a stray air pocket in the system. It can take a while for all of them to work their way out.

Bajas don't use lgt fitment turbos. They're set up exactly like the 04-08 forester xt in terms of turbo and intercooler.

I'm assuming you're looking for parts to fix the brat after the damage from the rock. I've probably got everything you're needing. Send me a list to be sure.

I've done a clutch on an xt just like GD describes. Back in the days before I had an engine hoist. Wasn't necessarily difficult, just awkward.

Good catch. I missed that one.

Looking at those pdfs Dorman 610-323 looks to be a good match. Knurl is slightly larger, only by 0.35mm, which won't be enough to make a difference. They're 11mm longer, which should be more than a enough to give the extra threads you're needing.

I don't see why they would have a problem with it. It ideally would be done on a drill press with the hub removed from the car. Just need to find the size they would need to be drilled to. If you don't have any luck I can dig through my old research and see what that size is.

There's no stupid question unless it isn't asked. I haven't found any longer studs that have the correct knurl. Spent a few days looking through stud catalogs last summer when I was looking for an option.

You run the risk of the lug not seating properly if the hole isn't modified for correct knurl engagement. I've seen people weld studs in place before, but I don't really like that practice.

You can use studs for the legacy/impreza with some modifications to the hub. The knurled area on the newer studs is about 2mm bigger than the xt6 studs. To allow them to grab properly you'd need the stud hole to be drilled to the proper size. I don't remember the numbers off the top of my head but they were posted in the thread about the reproduction xt6 hubs.

They won't, 3at is 3.70 ea82 4wd 5 spd is 3.90.

If you're in Natural Bridge VA I'll give you your money back on the car plus some to keep it off the salty rump roast VA winter roads.

I know I've got two completely different engines from the ea82. But my carbed ea81 4 spd sounds like it's going to fly apart at 70+, no idea what my rpm is because it's a dl with no tach. On the other hand my ea81t 5 spd has happily cruised at 85-90 to keep up with traffic and sounds so much more composed, you could hold a conversation at those speeds without having to talk abnormally loud.