MTSuby

Every subaru I've had has done this...Is there a little loss of power you can feel that goes along with it?

Great, thanks. Yeah, at first I assumed it was in the gas tank, so I was going to be lazy about replacing it, but since it sounds like it's not much harder to get at than a fuel filter, it's pretty easy. No reason to get stranded because of something like that. I figure if I replace it before it goes out, I can keep it in the car as a backup in case of failure down the road.

Does it seem strange that the frequency of the humming would change when my foot is on the brake? I can only hear the pump when I'm idling, but I just noticed yesterday that when I took my foot off the brake, the frequency changed...foot back on the brake, frequency changed. Just an interesting thing, or does it mean something? I'm considering buying a pump just in case it decides to go out on me somewhere in the middle of nowhere Montana...

Alright, thanks a lot so far, everyone. I'll spend some time on the subaruoutbackf forums.

Call me lazy, but this seems like it would take a lot of searching, and it's not even for me, it's for a friend. I know some people love imparting their knowledge, so, if you're one of those people, humor me, please: I have a friend looking at newer Outbacks. 2008-2010, probably. She was looking at a 2008 LL Bean edition. Someone told her 2010 was the best year outback (quite a generalization and I'm assuming he didn't say why, like engine? tranny? overall? what??). So for anyone who knows and is willing to give me a quick rundown of these later models, major problems to look out for, good points, etc., that would be awesome. I think she's looking for a 6 cylinder.

Sweet, thanks everyone. They rarely plow in my town, so studs are really nice. With decent tires and 4wd, my Loyale would be fine...but with 4wd and studs, my Loyale is awesome! Really, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to just go sliding of the interestate at 80mph or something on dry pavement. Increased stopping distances in the winter are a no brainer anyways. I mostly wanted to be sure they weren't downright dangerous, but I agree, if they were that bad, they'd be completely outlawed. And the only reasons I've seen for why they are outlawed in the states they are is because of road wear, and the dangers that causes, not because studs themselves make driving dangerous.

Interesting...thank you.

Forgive me if this has been beat to death, but at least searching through thread titles, I didn't see much. Are studs dangerous on dry or wet roads, or do they just handle a little worse? I love them around town on snowy/icy roads, but say I was going to get on I-15 and head to SLC Utah, and they're dry roads the whole way?

My guess is you have the same annoying rattle as me, and it's the 4wd switch rattling in the shifter knob at certain rpms. Going up hills, and often at highway speeds, my 4wd button rattles. Annoying, I agree. Haven't thought too hard about ways to fix it...

I replaced the oil pump and seals, and cam seals. Every now and then my engine still ticks, sometimes LOUD, but one thing I've notice for sure, when my oil gets below 3/4, it ticks pretty much constantly. Consequently I replaced the oil pan gasket since it was leaking a lot. I'd always know when I was getting slightly low on oil, because it would start ticking, and even revving the engine up to 4k didn't make it go away I'm assuming at some point I'll need to replace lifters if I care enough about the noise, but for now it mostly doesn't tick.

Ok great, thank you. I replaced the filter against the firewall a few months back, but I remember something about another one...so I'll look that up. Thanks again.

93 Loyale. I've noticed lately (since it got cold, but that may or may not have anything to do with it), that there's kind of a pulsing, humming noise in the car. maybe coming from behind me? Can't hear it when I'm outside the car near the engine. Can't tell if it goes away, gets faster, or is just covered up by engine noise once I accelerate, but I don't hear it once I'm moving. Only at idle. To me, it sounds like I'm in one of those cars with an antenna that extends when you turn on the car, but instead of extending, it's motor just keeps running...or like the windshield wiper fluid motor is running or something. Do fuel pumps make noise when they're going out? Anyways, I don't notice any performace issues associated with the noise.. Any ideas?

Agreed! My DR 87 wagon was the best vehicle I've ever had for the snow. Now I've got a 93 Loyale, and it came with studded snow tires on old school Suby rims, and it's just unstoppable. I do miss low range though... I also have an 83 4wd Toyota pickup. Awesome truck, but it does not handle nearly as well as the Subaru in the snow. It's snowing here in Montana right now! Got a few dumps over the last week, and temps hovering above & below zero. I've been having fun driving around.

My 93 Loyale only ever gets above the lower 1/4 of the gauge during a long extended hill climb (like a mountain pass). And I get plenty of heat in the car. I'd say that where it's registering on the gauge, and your problem of little heat in the car, are two seperate things. The gauge reading is where it should be, but if you aren't getting heat in the car, check for a clogged heater core. But yes, always use an OEM thermostat.

Ok great, thanks guys. I'll look at things a little more closely and see what I've got going on.

No, not sure. I'll check closer. I'll also look into that kit...any links?

So I used these hose clamps (that are kind of the right size..), and my idle still speeds up a bit when I spray starter fluid around here.

Ok, I found some leaks, and I'll take photos later since my manual doesn't really tell me what the hoses are. But they're larger hoses, which have the old style clamps on them. Even after I got new hose clamps and really tightened them down, it's still sucking air...Do I need to replace the hoses? Or what? Like I said, I'll take photos of what I'm talking about, but I'm pretty sure I found my leaks, and they don't want to seal.

Ok, thanks. Hopefully I'll get around to that soon...I go through phases where I don't feel like being a mechanic. I've been smelling gas a bit lately too like I'm running rich. I guess with a vacuum leak it could be throwing my emissions/fi stuff off? Anyways, I'll let you know what I find. Some day I'm going to get around to installing that nice shiny Nissan alternator, too....

Ah, rookie mistake, sorry. 93 Loyale, FI. That seems right (missing). My idle is rough, when it's warmed up, the car's got a nice shake to it when I'm stopped at a light. About a month ago, I had serious hesitation, rough idle, missing, jerking at acceleration etc. The tune up basically fixed that, but I guess not completely... So...is it time for the old "spray starting fluid around the intake to look for vacuum leaks"? Or what.

I had the timing belts changed and I hoped that my timing was off and would be fixed after the job, but my exhaust is really rough, not smooth at all. Kind of poppy when it's idling. I changed my spark plugs/wires/cap/rotor, and like I said, the timing belts were just done. Where should I start looking? I'm guessing the exhaust shouldn't be so rough, and should more or less just sound somewhat smooth coming out the tailpiece.

I went with NAPA. NGK. Plugs wires cap & rotor were a little under $60, total, I think.

I was surprised at where the temp sits on my 93 Loyale. I had an 87 GL, and I have an 83 Toyota pickup, and both those tend to sit right below half-way on the gauge. But my Loyale sits just above the bottom. If you traced the fuel lines there you should have found it...unless someone took it out for some reason. It's in a clip right up against the firewall, up top by the windshield as was already mentioned. Right up on top. I haven't had to read codes yet.

The fuel filter is up against the firewall on the driver's side. Get yourself a cheap manual, or a factory service manual. They really come in handy, even for basic stuff.

Mine isn't much to show off...only 140,000 on my 93 Loyale.