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Since your problem is temperature related and since your car is almost 9 years old, I think it would be a good idea to replace the coolant temp sensor. I would use OEM since it can be had for around 30$. Make a search on this board for «temp sensor» and you will access all sorts of info on how to locate it and replace it. Good luck!

Very interesting Setright, but could you explain that one to me?

I top it off once in a while but more like 1/2 a cup per four summer months. That amount each week does'nt sound good. Nipper's adviced sounds better...

Many members here swear by NGK Vgroove (standard copper plugs). I swear by NGK Iridium, but platinum is fine. NGK Iridiums seem to be less expensive here. Sure thing Iridium and Platinum last longer and give at least as strong a spark as copper. They claim the small positive tip makes for a healtier spark when cold starting. It makes sense to me.

About the axles being the cause. If I may try a hypotheses, if an axle is too long would'nt it transfer the engine and trans vibrations to the wheel and through the wheel to the rest of the car. The rubber motor mounts would then be «bypassed» cause the trans would have a direct metal on metal link to the body of the car through the wheel. Such a condition would be very hard on the front diff bearings and also on the front wheel bearings. Just an idea.

Not the first time I read that and I'm not challenging it, but I dont understand. Could someone explain that to me? In my book, either the oil pump pick up tube is sucking in oil or it's not (level is too low). In the first case, whatever is the level in the crankcase, the oil pressure is normal and there should not be any ticking sound heard. In the second case, there is no oil pressure. Am I missing something?

1) I get the same kind of readings at startup and I have the same car. 2) Made the install just as you did with a T fitting. 3) I have a copper tube but it's hard to thread around obstacles and it also gets brittle with heat and age. I've read there is a teflon with stainless mesh tube available. 4) My idle speed is around 700 rpm and the gauge reads 10 psi then.

I replaced mine without any sealant on the gasket more than two years ago and everything is fine.

I think this sensor is located on the pass side strut tower. A couple of vac hoses are connected to it IIRC. Maybe they knocked off one of those hoses when replacing the air filter.

Mine are marked 44 psi max. and should be at 32 front and 30 rear according to what is written on the driver's door still. I have had the fronts at 34 and the rears at 32 for a long time. Recently I gave the fronts 36 and the rears 34 and, even if the ride is a little harsher, the car drives and handles very well. I keep putting less air at the rear to take into account that most of the time the wagon is not loaded and that the weight at the front is heavier that at the rear (engine, engine's accessories, driver and passenger). I'll see how it turns out.

1) Fist of all, like many others here, I'm sincerely glad that neither the driver nor any innocent passer by was hurt seriously in that accident. 2) However, I must disagree with what SuBrat84 writes here inasmuch as members and posters on this board are not only and unidimensionnaly Subaru car owners, drivers and mechanics, but also human beings (some of which have children that often have to cross steets). If someone can be permitted to tell about tears being brought to his eyes at the sight of a damaged automobile, I think one can also be permitted to comment on the human aspect of an accident that has been unecessarily (if the point was discussing the car's damage) described here in every detail. Nevertheless, I think it is a good thing that the driver seems to take full responsibility for her actions and is conscious that she was lucky that the outcome was not much more dreadfull. All is well that ends well ? My ethical two cents lecture.

In the light of all that has been said here about the relation of drag to fuel consumption, would it not be a good idea to have an air speed gauge or meter? That would permit one to go a little faster without compromising fuel economy when a tail wind is available. Is such a gauge readily available or is it only an airplane thing?

134.9845 to be exact. Why did'nt they put in that .0155 inch ? Always trying to cheat the customer.

Sorry, I was on the old board originally.

I'm afraid that's wisdom too deep for me to fathom. My .02 of a dollar. Take care P.-S.: I realy like my Subaru 134.2522 cubic inches engine. But did they really put that .2522 cubic inch in or is it only hype?

And what about the ten commandments!

OK. I read it right now. Sorry. My mistake. Tanks for the info. Could be useful someday.

Dont want to be ungrateful Matt, but something's weirdly mixed up in the pdf document you made available. Or am I missing something?

If you can put your hand on a vacuum gauge and connect it to the intake manifold (below the throttle plate) there is a simple test to know if the exhaust system is clogged (probably at the cat). Register the vac at idle and then open the throttle and slowly rise the rpm to 3000 rpm. if the vac goes down significantly and progressively, there is a restriction somewhere. Hope that helps.

I was asking myself the same question so I made a test. I connected one lead of my ohm meter to the sensor body and the other one to the engine ground. Zero ohm between the two so I concluded the exhaust system ground was OK.

Like Nomad said, on my car it's the button on the end of the stick that activates the washer.

I always tought it was in the stick itself. But I might be wrong.

I remember two different threads here starting with a post describing the same kind of problem. In each case the culprit was the ECU. FWIW. Good luck!

No grease fittings that I know of. Not sure, but I think those fittings are a thing of the past on most modern cars if not on all of them. One place I would like to see them come back is the wheel bearings.

Make a search with "heater light bulbs" and you'll find lots of info. Much discussed topic here.