frag

Did mine last spring. Nothing really difficult or complicated about it, very straithforward. Only advice I can give you is dont forget to replace cover gasket AND bolts oil seals (three on each side). Dont torque the bolts too much : Haynes will tell you how much. Last but not least, clean the face of the head around the cover before removing it. When you'll replace it you might not align it perfectly the first time and you risk getting dirt on the gasket. It's possible you'll have a little less playing room around the cover than i have with my 2.2 L.

Magnecor seems to imply to the contrary : «Engine tuners should also take into account that most stock engines and some hi-tech aftermarket engine management systems use resistance in ignition wires to sense additional information needed by the computer.» But I'm not sure what they mean by that exactly.

Have a look at this. Very interesting. Specially the part about how EMI emitted by faulty ignition wires can send false info to the ECU thru the sensors that might explain some mysterious ailments like cylinder miss and hesitations. The fact that it's witten by and for Magnecor can cast a shadow on the article objectivity, but everything here seems to make sense. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm One quotation: «Although most new ignition wires will perform the function of conducting coil output to the spark plug, what is important to sophisticated race engine preparers and owners of production vehicles with exhaust emission controls is EMI suppression. All electronic devices can be effected by EMI emitted from ignition wires, and the problem is often exacerbated by installing a high-output ignition system. As production vehicles age, engine management sensors and wiring deteriorate and become more susceptible to EMI radiating from improperly suppressed ignition wires. To be truly effective, ignition wires need to be EMI suppressed for a reasonable time, while having the ability to maintain good conductance without overloading other ignition system components. Engine tuners should also take into account that most stock engines and some hi-tech aftermarket engine management systems use resistance in ignition wires to sense additional information needed by the computer.

If the more easily the current pass the better, you're right and I would tend to agree with that. Then I ask myself, why do all manuals give a minimum value? What's the point in writing "4.9 - 11.5K" instead of "anything lower than 11.5K" ? Then I think there's likely a reason and but I dont Know what it is. Maybe Tiny Clark's explanation is the good one.

Haynes gives 123-151 ft-lbs of torque for the rear wheels hub and bearing retainer nut for a FWD car.

Good question! I would like to know too, because if it does'nt matter what's the point of testing one's wires and finding them out of spec...

The filter is ABOVE the sump, so no problem removing it.

I replaced all four struts and front springs last summer (one had broken cause of rust). It's a DIY job if you've got some shade tree mechanics experience. You need a spring compressor. Borrowed one at Canadiant Tire (you buy and they give you your money back when you bring them back). You probably can find same in the US. You can keep the springs and replace only the struts. Easier to use the compression tool if you have an impact wrench (air or electrical). My car is a little older than yours and maybe it's not applicable to you but I also replaced the strut top supports and adjoining hardware. Have a good breaker bar cause the big bolts that join the struts to the wheel knuckle are sometimes rusty and hard to get off. One problem is the brake lines. I followed the advide of a board member (forgot who it was) and cut part of the holding tab (with a Dremel) on the stut, bent back part of it to remove the line and did the reverse when reinstalling. Haynes offers good advice on how to proceed. Make a seardh with «strut replacement» and you'll find more info. Good luck!

The same set? Have you regapped them?

I have a fuel pressure gauge on my car. The line pressure goes down to zero in less than 3 hours. So if you change it in the morning like The Dude wrote, you will have no problem.

You obviously still have air in the cooling system. If all else fails, get a T fitting with cap made by Prestone (other makes also) to flush the cooling system. You splice this in one of the heater core inlet ou outlet hose (you'll find written on the package if it's for the inlet ou outle those) at it's higher point. You can fit a garden hose to this fitting to flush the cooling system but you can also use it to get rid of any trapped air since it's close to the highest point of the cooling system and it's close to the heater. I have one and when I refill the cooling system I unscrew the cap of this T fitting and wait till coolant leaks out of it. If coolant is up tho the top of the radiator but is not leaking from the T fitting I finish by adding some more thru this fitting. Never had a problem with trapped air since. Hope my description is clear enough. Good luck!

Tire size claculator says that your Blizzak tires will give you a speedometer reading that's 3.2% too slow. For example, at a reading of 60 mph, you will in fact be going at close to 62 mph. I think you will find you can live with that. Moreover the diameter will vary only by .8 inch. I dont think that this will cause any problems. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Same thing happened to me and the cure was a new key I got from the dealer with the car's vin number. Not expensive. I then got copies at Walmart. Maybe it'll work for you also. Good luck!

Any decent muffler shop will mig weld you a replacement piece of pipe for much much less. Good luck.

Did you test the coolant temp sensor connector and circuit? It would be a likely culprit.

They sell almost everywhere here. I'm sure you could find some at Autozone, even at Walmart. I dont think this is canadian made.

Using an extra spring (helper spring) can also help, I use them on my three wiper arms and am very satisfied. My front winter blades do not get off the glass even at speed and i have no problems with the rear one. The spring is sold at most auto stores and looks like a big clothes pin spring. You just clamp them on.

Like Imdew wrote the surest way is to get the code read. But waiting for that, i might point out that on a fuel injected car, «pumping the gas pedal» does'nt send more gas to the engine but more AIR. I would then assume that maybe the mixture is too rich and that this is due to a failing coolant temp sensor. But this is only a guess, so have the code read before doing anything else.

Not sure I understand what you mean by «right by the engine code» and no it's not screwd into the side of the engine but goes front to back (connector is towards the fire wall and threads are towards the front of the engine right under the driver's side rear intake manifold plenum. You get at it from the rear. Also take into account GLCraigGT's post.

No but it's a little involved. Start at the PCV valve, go down from there and towards the front of the engine going under the passenger's side intake plenum and you'll find it. It's screwed horizontaly towards the front of the engine.You'll have to put aside some vac hoses and some wires before getting free access to it. Takes a socket with extension to remove it after disconnection. A small amount of coolant will seep out but since's it's pretty much on top of the engine, noting to worry about. You could lower the coolant level by an inch or two if you want zero leak. Good luck!

At least «she» is looking up to you!

I knew Chilton's figures had a good chance of being off. Real crappy manual! 1999 fall issue of Endwrench gives also 11.6 ft-lb + ou - 1.1 ft-lb. for a 1995 AWD Legacy. http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/FtClutchReplacementF99.pdf

Chilton's gives 6,7 - 7,8 ft-lb. Seems low to me but I have'nt done my clutch yet. Next summer.

Recently, someone posted a link on how to trouble shoot cooling system problems. I remember that a sure sign of a clogged rad is if it's cold at the bottom and hot at the top or hot at the bottom and cold at the top. You check this when the engine is at operating temp or when overheating.

I'm not a differential expert, but that's the first time I hear of ATF fluid in the rear (or front) differential. Gear oil is for gears. I would replace the ATF with 70-90 gear oil ASAP. ATF fluid is more like hydraulic fluid not gear oil.