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One way to forget all those problems (stuck plug, finding right torque, stripped threads, plug falling into oil catch pan, oil getting all over your hands and on the floor, etc.) is bying a Fumoto valve. A flick of the lever and your oil starts to drain, one flich of the lever and it's closed. Had it for over three years and am very happy with it. http://www.fumotovalve.com/

Maybe it did'nt wait that long. Driving without much accessories on, it can take a relatively long time to drain a good and fully charged battery.

One caveat : I'm not sure but I think LSIs had air (pneumatic) suspension. If it's the case and on a car of that age, take into account that it will probably fail soon and that you will have to replace with standard struts.

Put a multimeter on the batterie's posts when alt is charging, should be around 14 volts. Do that fast cause a bad alt will ruin you new battery. A starting battery is not made to be completely discharged.

Check the hose first cause it's easy and it's cheap. But how would a leaking hose cause overheating that lasts only a minute? It's exactly where the pump is so it would leak exactly at the same place. A new OEM pump will cost you 64$ USD at 1stSubaruparts if your car is not turbo. https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

The Dude]Yep, 170,000 miles and the driver's side inner CV boot is torn again. Anyway, this time I'm thinking about replacing it myself. I would appreciate any advise on the following: 1. A good souce for rebuilt axles? A. I bought Subaru rebuilt at the dealer but you could probably have a better price elsewhere. Others will give you an address. I think it's : http://www.cvaxles.com/ 2. Where is a good solid place to put thea jack stands when replacing the front axle A. Just at the normal jack points. 3. Any advise on the axle replacement would be welcome. I have the Haynes Legacy Repair Manual, it looks like it should be close enough to the 99 Forester. A. If you make a search on this board with "axle replacement" you will find tons of useful info. Another question. I want to tighten the bolts on the oil pan. There are access holes in the cross member. But the holes aren't even close to lining up with the rear oil pan bolts. Any suggestions? TIA A. I had to enlarge mine with a Dremmel tool and a rat tail file when i replaced my oil pan.

If the coolant puddle is below the left (driver's side) front part of the engine, it might very well be that your water pump is giving up the ghost. I'm not speaking of extreme left but just left of the crank pulley, about where the oil dipstick is.

Your symptoms very much sound like a failing alternator. If so, you can get a Subaru rebuilt cheap at 1stSubaruparts. I got mine there. https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Good luck!

As the cooling fluid contracts, the coolant in the overflow bottle should be drawn in the rad. What you're describing in not normal. Even if your symptom seem to point to a head gasket failure, you shoulf maybe begin by replacing the rad cap just to eliminate the cheap stuff. If a cap does'nt seal properly it could let air be sucked in during cool down and that would also prevent the fluid in the overflow reservoir to return to the rad. Just my 2 cents.

I usually go to the dealer (Scotti Subaru in Montreal) just for parts. But once in a while I need more help and the service manager and one mechanic there (Thierry) really go out of their way to help me even though they know I do most of the repairs myself. I have a good relationship with the parts guy also (Joe Bomben). Last time I needed them is when I had a vibration over 100Kmh and I coud'nt find the cause. This mec came with me for a drive. Took close to half an hour and they did'nt charge me anything. About one in every three times I go there I make a short walk to the garage and ask Thierry a question or two. He has always been willing to answer them to the best of his knowledge. When I had the Loyale, it was him who replaced the right front bearing while accepting to let me look on and aswering all my questions while he was working. Probably an exception but worth mentionning.

Sort of. On my car the firs cat (upstream) is connected just where the Y pipes meet.

Catalyst bank one is the first converter. The problem could be due to the fact that this converter is not working properly or because there is damage to it or to the exhaust system between exhaust manifold and rear converter. It could also be caused by a bad downstream O2 sensor : the one on the rear converter. It is this sensor that tells the ECU if something's wrong upstream. It could be also be caused by a bad connection to this downstream sensor. I dont think the ECU can tell the difference between a good sensor sending info that things are no up to spec and a bad sensor sending faulty info. Maybe others can dwell deeper into this. Good luck!

If you apply the brakes even lightly when this happens, does the noise stop?

If pushing the pedal to the floor does'nt start your engine, ron's analysis makes a lot of sense.

First poster says he has spark when his engine will not start. That's how I concluded that his engine was turning over but not catching. Sherlock Holmes

I thought of a coolant temp sensor first but your symptoms are a little weird. Usually (happened to me twice with two different cars) a failing temp sensor «tells» the ECU the engine is cold when in fact it is hot and ECU sends to much gas thus flooding the engine. I would be almost certain of a coolant temp sensor if your could'nt start anytime the engine is warm or at operating temp. Butmaybe your sensor sends a wrong message only when the engine is warm and resume proper function when the engine reaches operating temp. Nevertheless, the fact that waiting for some time is sufficient to have the engine start again points to a flodded engine situation. Next time this happens, the minute you see the car is not going to start (dont wait to long) push the gas pedal to the floor and keep trying to start. This will give the engine more air and might very well ofset the excess gas. If your engine then starts, i would bet it is the coolant temp sensor. Hope that helps.

Same with my manual 2.2L

You are of course the ultimate judge of what you want to put on your car's rims but more and more the consensus is that if you happen to drive in sub zero temerature a good winter tire is a must. The main problem is the rubber compound of all seasons tires become much harder around -10C° and at that point you loose much of your traction on icy surfaces and your braking distances will be much longer. Just my 2 cents.

Sorry. I was'nt aware of your condition. Hope all goes well for you.

I dont tink he means the knuckle Col...rules. Just the rim and tire.

We have more and more small independent breweries that make excellent beer. At least in Quebec. I dont know for ROC. As for what happened to Johngenx, I dont think it can be generalised.

Was told the same thing also but dont know if it's true. Though I think it would be the lack of back pressure that would cause the problem.

Ask for details. 1000$ for a «tune up» is highway robbery! That kind of money is justified only for some major repairs.

No NHL games at the moment and probably not for the rest of the year like you must know. Nevertheless, the Can juniors just won the gold medal in the world cup against the Russians.

Hockey games? What's that?