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Very nice job! Do you have an AT or a MT?

They light up on my 96 Brighton, but I had to replace them when i got the car used in 2000.

My 96 Legacy has near 140 K miles and the rad is still OK, but... It never overheats but the fan comes on sooner than before when stopped at idle during the summer. I suspect it's the multitude of small pieces of gravel that have hit the rad over the years and have bent a number of very thin and fragile fins blocking part of the air flow around the tubes. Since it's not leaking I'll keep it during this winter but might replace it altogether next summer. I intend to keep the car at least five more years.

Beginning to think this thread is 17 posts too long... No offense. Just my kind of humor.

Very strange that having done it themselves nobody can explain why to you... I remember that there was a recall for some Legacys for front tow hooks that would deploy the air bags if even moderately bumped on something hard. I also remember that the cure was removing the hooks. The most likely explanation is that your car was listed as part of that recall.

I used that also last belt change. The beaty of this little Vice-Grip chain wrench (i used it also on the cam pulleys when i replaced the seals) is that you can always - the moment it's set - find something immovable to wedge the short handle on. That leaves both your hands free to work. Use a piece of belt on the pulleys to protect them of course.

That's exactly what I have on my 2.2L right now. With the kind of low voltage value associated with an 02 sensor, I think you need the best connection possible and that's solder. Easy to do also: I cut the wire at the old sensor to make removal easier (if you have a 2.2L you just bend over the right fender with an open wrench and go at it) and made the splice on the kitchen table with my soldering iron and heat shrinkable wire covers. No problem reinstalling the new sensor with the new pigtail on when you use an open wrench from above. Just reconnect and you're in business. Good luck!

First thing to do would be to have someone pull the fault code (when the check engine light comes on, a fault code pointing to the cause is kept in the ECU memory. By reading posts on this board I know that Autozone can pull the code for free if it's OBDII which it probably is. If not, others here will tell you how to pull the code. A plumber's daughter will certainly be able to do that.

Thanks Colorado. I have a Subaru head unit. Will try to find a used stock CD player or if not available a new one. Thanks again. P.-S. If I have a Subary OEM head unit does that necessarily mean that i have the round plug you mentionned? Or is there more than one kind of connection?

You guys seem to be in the know about cars audio. I've got a 96 Brighton Wagon with the Fm and cassette deck. There's a two inch (about) tray just below it all. Could I install a CD player there and keep the rest of the system? And if so what would you advise I buy? I only want a decent player nothing too costly. Thanks in advance.

You will need ideas coming from many sources on this. Here's my two cents: something similar hapened to me a while back when I removed a vac gauge I had installed on my former Loyale. There was oil in the hose connecting to the gauge. This hose passed under the dash. Conclusion: maybe some vac hose under the dash (heater or ac controls?) has oil in it (maybe bad PCV valve) and is leaking at a connection. Do you have other symptoms?

I put a plexiglass window just in the center of the hood on my car and rigged the hood latch with a special spring and cable release. I use it as an emergency brake when there's ice on the road. Honest!

See my post on your previous thread.

You have a 2.2L engine. Find the PCV valve, go down from there and towards the front of the engine uner the intake manifold on the right side (passenger). The sensor is screwed horizontaly under there from back to front. You'll see a wire going to it. Disconnect. It's a little cluttered in there and you will have to disconnect and/or put aside some vac hoses and some other wires. That done you only need a ratchet with the propre length extension and a deep socket. Use the new sensor to find the right socket size. A small amount of coolant with come out put a rag or paper towel in there to stop it till you're ready to put in the new sesnor. Hope that helps. On my 96 engine, there is only one coolant sensor for both the temps gauge and the fuel management. I would'nt think your 95 engine is different but not absolutely sure.

Frankly, I'm not sure. All I know is that they were «rust proof» but that probably means they were galvanized or something of the sort. Stainless would be ideal for sure. I'll check them next spring and see how they fared and will replace them if rust seems to have set in. By the way, Commuter, I'm still using those Purolator filters out of the box you sent me. Thanks again.

I tried the clamps and they only solve part of the problem. The only thing that silenced them for good is when I drilled the right sized holes thru the shields at the right places (near junctions most of the time) and screwed in metal screws (half, 3/4, and 1 inch) until they exert a pressure on the inside pipe. I did that more than two monts ago and they're still silent. I can enjoy the true sound of my engine at last. I dulled the point of the screws on my bench grinder to protect the exhaust pipes. Hope that helps.

Try an alt rebuilding place, maybe they will accept to sell you just the parts.

Like Svxpert wrote, the symptoms are that of a failing temp sensor. It tells the ECU the engine is cold when in fact it is hot, ECU sends too much gas and floods the engine. That's why it idles rough for some time (time to get rid of excess fuel) and why it starts when you floor the pedal ( you give the cylinders more air and it compensate a bit for the excess fuel) At 95, the sensor is due for a change anyway, it's not expensive and once it's out of the engine, I would just replace it. If you insist on checking it I could give you the resistance/temp values tomorrow if nobody comes forward with this info today. Good luck!

It's interesting to note that Commuter has had the same thing happen to him: a blown HG and a rod problem. He tought they were unrelated and coindidental. Could there be a relation?

Nobody willing to explain the difference between single and double port ?

Could someone explain in layman's language the difference between two ports and single port? And how do you find out which 2.2L you have? Thanks in advance.

Some of these might be old stored codes. I would first erase those codes and see what new codes will come up. 777 site explains how to do that I think. My guess would be crank and cam sensor for the symptoms you have. You're in luck these sensors became very expensive AFTER 96. You can have them for 17$ USD a piece at 1stSubaruParts. Test them before of course.

Thanks. Could you give us some more details. I would presume you have to replace the stalk itself to have provision for adjusting the delay?

I'll second that. I could'nt say it better.

About light or gauge, I think that to be useful a temp gauge should have an alarm set at a predetermined temp. It's too easy to be disctracted and not have an eye on the gauge at the worst moment. These gauges exist (seen some in a catalog a while back) and I'm probably going to install one since my car is entering its tenth year. Should be same for the oil pressure gauge.