frag

If it's the alt, 1stSubaruparts sells a very good rebuilt cheap. I've had one in my car for the last four years.

First check the battery voltage (12.5 volts) and charging voltage (around 14 volts) with a multimeter before doing anything else. Your symptoms could also point to defective starter solenoid contacts. If the battery and alt voltages are ok, make a search here for «solenoïd contacts». Open the hood and figure out if the starter solenoïd is clicking when attempting to start. If so, it's the solenoïd contacts. You could replace them or buy a rebuilt starter.

This puts icing and even a cherry on top of this mystery cake. If clutch disk dragging was the culprit, upping the revs would worsen the problem not cure it!! Please report back when you've finally found what's up.

If you have no fork free play nor pedal free play that explains why you have so much fork travel. With the fork values adjusted, you mesure the pedal free play by measuring the travel between initial movement of the pedal against the return spring up to the point where you begin to feel the resistance of the clutch itself. It's much more easy to feel this if you push the clutch pedal with your hand. Like the other poster said: did you test the clutch operation after putting the clutch fork movements to spec?

If you care to Nipper, I'd like to understand your diagnostic here. How would the fact that his fuel pressure goes down to zero in two hours affect the starting hability of his car. Mine has always taken about the same time, maybe a little longer, to go down to nil and I have no starting problem. Moreover, his fuel pressure with ignition on and with engine running seems, to me at least, sufficiently close to spec to have no adverse effect on starting. What am I missing? Thanks in advance for your answer.

You seem to know what you're doing so I offer this only in case it slipped your mind. I changed my clutch recently and have a hard time trying to figure out what could be wrong with your's. My opinion is that if it were something under the bell housing, like an excessively machined flywheel outer crown, it would never be shifting right. The fact that you had three good first gear shifts after replacing the cable seems to point to something else like the cable or cable system. The first thing I would do is ask someone to push in the clutch pedal and mesure the fork lever full stroke. I should be one inch measured at the tip. You also should have around 1/8 of an inch of freeplay at the fork and 3/8 at the pedal. If that is correct, then I guess you will have to open things up all over again. Good luck!

Hi, The only thing I can contribute is that the fuel pressure seems normal and the fact that it's begining to go down after 15 min. is also normal. I have a fuel pressure gauge on my car and the same thing has been happening since the beginning without ill effects. P0130 has to do with the front O2 sensor and P0500 with the speed sensor. I don't see how a problem with these could produce the symptoms you're having. I dont know about the other codes. Good luck and wait for further help.

Makes sense. But I'm not seeing any wire going to the ECU on the wiring diagram. And if that were true, on my car, the ECU would receive the info that the clutch pedal is always in and would permanently send fuel to the engine even when the clutch pedal is out and my foot off the gas pedal. Why no CEL from the ECU and why no effect on engine braking and fuel consumption?

I tested the gauge once with my scanner and (this is approximate) the gauge was already at "normal", or just under the thermometer icon, at around 165-170 degrees F. and stayed there up to around 195 degrees F. Since that's the point where the thermostat has already began to open and the temp goes back down, I never saw the gauge going higher than normal.

That's almost half a million kilometers. I'm only half that and I'm sure rust will stop the count before the engine and trans do. Congratulations!

Sorry, can't answer those questions, but someone else sure will be. Good luck!

A simple search in this forum (like "tach replacement") will get you all the info you need.

Of course all of the above is for my 96 Brighton mt.

You're maybe right but I find it hard to believe. I overpassed that switch a few years back (soldered together the two leads leading to the switch) and have seen absolutely no difference in engine braking and fuel consumption. Edit = Moreover, here's my reasonning. 1) For the ECU to "monitor" something, it has to send voltage to the switch or sensor (usually 5 volt). When I got rid of the switch I tested the leads toroughly to be sure I was not messing with anything more than it seemed to be, and found no voltage whatsoever on any of the two wires leading to the switch, with engine running. 2) I found out by testing that the switch was grounding the starter solenoïde behing the dash. 3) I have the wiring diagram in front of me and according to that diagram, the only current that can flow thru that ground would be comming from the ignition switch turned to "start" when it closes the starter solenoïd circuit. Notwithstanding, I might be wrong somewhere and I would be glad if you could set me straight by making me understand where I'm wrong. Best regard, Gilles

The bottom line here is they told you "we can't fix it so it's your problem". This is totally wrong.

For what model years is that 91 Loyale? On my '96 2.2L, the clutch switch is only a ground for the starter relay. Just to prevent starting without pushing in the clutch.

Hi Larry! When I first replaced the timing belt on my Brighton, I checked the backing plate (100 K miles +) and I saw that it had already been done. At the second belt change the screws were as tight as before. That's my experience. No more. Coil is still sparking great by the way. Best regards, Gilles

Have a look at this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2529&highlight=installing+tach+brighton

Yea! That gives us one more way of associating bleeding and a 2 X 4

I installed some on my car. It makes possible for one person to bleed the brakes inasmuch as you keep an eye on the master cyl reservoir and top it up as it gets lower.

I ad my sig to that.

I can feel the pain. In my case the bolt snapped. Twice. Once on a Loyale and once on my present Legacy. And I dont even take steroids.

That's the reason why OEM belts with marks on them are useful. If the marks on the sprockets are lined up with the lines on the belt, nothing will change when the slack is taken. I'm an amateur and I replaced 2 belts on an EJ22 with no problems doing it this way.

Thnaks a lot to all. I'll keep the pump and I'll keep the car mooving:banana:

My car is 13 years old and around 160 K miles. Would it be overpreventive maintenance to replace the fuel pump or would it be wise. How many of you have had the fuel pump konk out before 200 K miles ? When I bought the car used in 2001, I made it a challenge never to have it strand me. Up to now I've kept up with regular maintenance and have replaced a few part even before they went bad (alternator for one). The car has performed flawlessly. I'd like to keep it another 3 to 5 years.