tcspeer

Thanks, if anyone wants to know I ordered it from Lithia Subaru for 112.00 dollars. We dont have many Subaru junk cars here in central Tx.

Thanks, for the information and advice. One other question, do you get to this switch from inside of car by way of the shift lever, or under car?

Auto, wife says it wont start sometimes (twice) she wiggled the shift lever and it started.

1997 Subaru legacy 2.2, I think I may need a neutral safety start switch. Anyone know how much trouble to change, or cost? I seen a switch at rock auto for under ten dollars, but then looked at Auto Zone and seen the switch with a wire running to small bolt on unit for 99.00 dollars. Anyone have any ideal which I may need?

I didnt see in your post where you checked or changed the plug wire. I am sure you did, just checking to make sure.

I also use a lot of junk yard parts, but on the radiator I would get the new one.

I also think it is the coil. One of my coils that went out had the very same symptons. I know it only has one but it has been replaced twice.

One thing I would check that you have not mentioned is the pigtails wires to the injectors, All you need is a set of noid lights that cost very little at parts store. I had a cylinder 3 misfire that ended up being the E.C.U.

Elc. went out here in Walnut Springs at 1:00 A.M. didn't get it back until almost lunch today, lots of tree limbs down. You have four at your house? are you a carrier? I retired last year but wife is still carrying. 449,000 miles on ours.

Respect! Until you miss one, then you have to start all over.

If you keep getting the code for cam sensor after replacing it three times, maybe the mice you speak of have damaged that wire somewhere further back. I am assuming the wires you changed were the plug wires. We had damaged done to some of our cars from mice, Someone told us to quit feeding the birds and the mice would leave. The bird feeders came down and the mice problem left.

The new 285.00 dollar M.A.F. sensor did fix this problem, thanks to all for the advice.

I did not see on your list of things tried the coil pact. Very easy to swap and try if you have another one handy. If not test it as described in Haynes manual.

Did you check the other end of the cables also? To make sure they are tight and clean. After rereading your post, if you are able to jump it from the starter I dont think it would be a battery or cable problem. Most likely a new starter would fix it, most auto parts stores can check them if you take it off and carry it in.

Have you cleaned your battery posts and cable clamps?

F419C, The road surface you speak of is most likely the cause of that bushing going bad. My Subaru is also a right hand drive and is used to deliver mail here in the U.S. The right side of my Subaru spends most of the time off of the payment while the left is on the payment so changing that front right bushing is very common for me, probably 3 times already. Those bushing are around 70.00 dollars U.S. money. they look the same but the left and right side will not interchange.

Sounds to me like your big control arm bushing is bad. That is the big bushing at the rear of control arm. It is bolted to bottom of car with two large bolts right close to the front of front doors. You can tell if it is bad because grease will leak out when it is bad. It will clunk when you make sharp turns from a stop.

The rack will also clunk, I replaced my inner tie rods only to find out the clunk was in rack, I replaced the whole rack and it fixed it.

Thanks Shawn, but I already ordered it new. We get a good dicount on parts for postal Subarus from Lithia Subaru. On the mileage it has been on a route with over 100 miles daily since 1996. It is used for most everything else we do also because it gets better gas mileage then anything else we have. I think I have been through four driveshafts with all of the stop and go, and I dont recall anyone here ever say they have had to replace a drive shaft.

We dont have many Subarus in Texas, the one place that I have had luck getting used Subaru parts does not have one of these.

Cleaning is a good suggestion, I see they are over 200.00 dollars at Rock Auto.

Looks like the flaky MAF was good advice, I done reseach on the web and the problems I am having are common with this going bad, and it is common for it not to give check engine code. Thanks for the tip. Thanks to the rest who also offered advice.

Could be the M.A.F. it is one of the few things that has never been replaced on this car.

No the engine never dies, it just bogs down and then goes fine. 02 sensor is old, but no code for it.

1-3-2-4 M.A.F. wouldnt this show a code? What is the best way to check for vacum leak? The vacum lines look good from sight. Nipper, the timing belt is close to due for changing but this has done this for the last few years when it was not due. It has not died just cut out like it is not getting fuel or fire. And it does it only when the weather is warm it runs fine on the cool days. As far as the mileage it is way up there. 448,000 miles. It has been on a mail route for the last 15 years.