tcspeer

Sorry ericem, if you check the time of our post you will see I was replying at the same time, Not copying what you just said.

If I remember correct you should put the end back in the control arm and put the nut back on, and then pry the control arm down to pull it out of the knuckle.

Two other things that will make a clunk sound when you turn are the strut mount, as ericem has already mentioned the strut. Also the big bushing at the back of the control arm, the bushing will be easy to tell if it is bad the rubber part of it will be leaking the grease out of it.

Our mouse problems went away when we took our bird feeders down. Someone told us that was what was bringing them around, after removing them we have not had anymore problems. So dont leave bird feed or pet feed around for them to eat. If they dont have feed they will go on down the road to someone that does.

The big thing that the brake line screws into is called the caliper, this you can get at the auto store. The two things the little bolts screw into are called caliper pins, I dont know if the auto store sells these you may have to get them from the dealer. You should be able to remove these caliper pins and clean them and reuse them. The other big part the caliper bolts onto is called the caliper bracket, it is bolted on with two 17 mm bolts.

I do not like the ones with the pointer it is to hard to read in some positions. I use the clicker types that are sold in auto stores and Harbor Freight. I do not know that they are accurate but I'am sure I get most things closer to right then doing it by feel alone.

Before I bought the special Subaru tool made for this I used the big chain wrench that Harbor Freight sells. Just take your old belt and cut it so that it will just go around the cam spocket, Then duct tape it together so it will stay there until you get your chain wrench on it. Dont buy the chain vice grips get the big chain wrench.

My 97 Subaru L. wagon now has over 400,000 miles on it. I think it is 402,000. These are hard working miles and a lot of things on it have been replaced.

I purchase my parts from Litha Subaru in Or. They also told me the grease in the bearing is ready to install, But I still clean mine out and repack with Hi Temp disc brake bearing grease. If you want to repack your own bearings do a seach on the web, I have seen a demonstration of how it is done there, but dont remember the link.

You probably need the little round plastic thing, it's above the E.G.R. valve. It has the four vacum lines on it mine has three on the top and one on the bottom. It also has three letters on the top of it , I think mine has P. R. & Q. on it.

Sounds like a good buy to me. These kind of cars dont show up to often.

I have wondered this also, The best I could come up with for myself was this little rubber tip was to build up pressure to help push the pads back away from the rotors when the brake is released. Kind of like the rubber thing in a hand air pump. Until someone comes up with something better this is what I will continue to believe.

I see you have tried many of the suggestions here and they were good suggestions, but if it was mine I would now go to Auto store and get a set of noid lights and test the pigtails that plug into the fuel injectors. These are little lights that plug on to the end of the pigtail, then turn the engine over and see if they are flashing, if not you may have a bad E.C.U.

I had the same thing happen on a 97 Legacy, I only had one valve get bent. I replaced with a junk yard motor, and the mains where knocking in it. I ran it a while and then I ordered a motor from CCR and requested one that was not interference. They sold me a great engine and was great to do bussiness with. Just in case you dont know the pistons were coned up on the 97 and above for more horse power, which causes the problem with the valves when something goes wrong. So I assume they put the regular piston in the engine I ordered, I did not ask them what they did to make it non interference, I just know I asked for non interference and they told me that is what they made for me. If your engine is low mileage I would think you would be O.K. just replacing the heads or valves, someone here should know the facts on this so maybe they will give you more input.

Good advice John, I would try the additive also ,their is nothing to lose. And the number on the transmission is the correct way to find the right one.

Why not just buy a new one, or put that one on without using compressed air on it? I would be afraid the compressed air might damaged the wet filter.

I also think this is a fuel supply problem, Have you heard any strange noise from the back of your car? When my fuel pump went out it was making noise before it finally quit altogether.

The smell is probably from the chemicals on the new pads, I hope you did not grind those ears down much, I have never had to do that on any of my front pads, I have drums on the rear so I dont know if that is a problem or not with the rear disc brakes.

You may get a better price from Lithta Subaru # 866-717-2512 or another place that people use is if 1st. Subaru parts.com That may be a bigger job then you expect, on a 98 Legacy wagon I was going to change mine and if I remember correct you have to remove more then just the four bolts and other brake things that hold it on to get it off. I think is is in between the hub and knuckle. However mine is A.W.D. I dont know whether yours is or not. I just waited and changed mine later when the rear bearing went out.

I had this problem also on a 98 Postal Legacy Wagon. We get to do lots of brake work on these things and I do most of the brake work myself. However I could not figure this one out, I also replaced the master cyclinder. So I took it to Midas, as the owner is a freind of mine, He found the problem on this one, it was a bad front caliper. They have brake hose pinchers which they pinch the brake line before the caliper and once this line was pinched the pedal was able to be restored, you can buy a set of brake line pinchers from Snap On, they are one of the few things they sell that dont cost much. This caliper I guess was just letting a little air leak by as there was no brake fluild leak what ever. This may or may not be your problem but it is just a suggestion to check if you give up on all else.

I would not use the slot in the back, it to much of a pain unless you cant get the drum off and then you may have to go that route. I would remove the wheel and then the drum, then if yours shoes are still in good shape you can very easy adjust the shoes out. You will want to turn the star wheel towards the top, it will not turn the other way without lifting the adj. arm away from the star wheel. Sometimes the little adj. star wheel will not turn, then you will have to take it out and clean and regrease the adj. screw part of it. Make sure you use grease that is made for brake system. The adj. is right when you can put the drum on with just a little drag when you turn it. Or you can spent a few dollars and pick up a brake shoe adj. tool at some auto stores or Harbor Freight. Maybe this will fix it without having to adj. the cable but if it dont Porcupine suggestion for adj. that nut at the lever may have to be done. If I remember right that center console had to come out on mine to get to to the adj. nut. The Haynes manual should tell you what is needed to get to it.

You might also check the coil pact, if you dont have a meter you can probably get Auto Zone to check it for you free.

Those are good instructions there, I used them also the first time I did mine. I was also lucky enough to get the local shop here to let me watch him put one in for me once before I tried it on my own. My Subaru has over 400,000 miles of Postal Del. on it so I get lots of practice with this and brakes, I have ran into this problem once so I will warn you just in case it happens to you. If the hub will not turn freely when you push it back in you have pushed it just a little to far, it dont take but just a very little bit to far to cause this. You can push it back just a little and it will work fine. Also when you get it back on the car and compare the spin of it to the other wheels it will be some tighter as long as it turns by hand it will be O.K. and will get as loose as the rest in short order. I was so concerned about this on my first one so I asked at one of the local shops and they told me it was normal to be a little tighter when first put together. Good luck and enjoy the money you will be saving in the future. Your press will pay for it self with the first or second one you do.

Some advice, I found it impossible to press that bearing assembly out with out removing the snap ring. If you have problems you might do a search for (How to conquer the wheel bearing) I posted the step by step directions there a few years back, and it is with the 20 ton press from Harbor Freight also. It was when I did not go back to the directions that I forgot to take the snap ring out.

Sorry I missed your suggestion of Hose Pliers, before I posted it. I did not mean to repeat something already suggested.