tcspeer

The first time I lost a clip in my transmission I was worried about it also, so I went to a local transmission shop and the tech there said leave it it wont hurt a thing, Now my Subaru Postal wagon has 393,000 miles on it and that clip has not hurt a thing. However you can try to fish it out if you want to.

Where? There is two female ends there you must have a male shaft for the axle to slide onto. And yes it is O.K. for the clip to be in the bottom of the transfer case this happens quite often.

I dont see your axle stub,the stub may have came out when you pulled the axle, if you find it on floor just get a new clip put it on the stub and push it back in. The old clip will be in the bottom of the pan and will not hurt anything.

See next post.

The axles are the same on right and left side, take the other one off and see if it will go on the side you are having trouble with.

It's easy to tell when the back ones go bad, you will see grease leaking out of them. I dont think the front one would go out unless you had many miles on them. I have got two or three of these control arms for around 75.00 dollars from the junk yard. You can buy the bushing for the rear for around 60.00 dollars and it is easy to replace. If you are thinking why so many for me this one is used for mail del.

It should be under the glove box. Try wiggleing the plug on the motor that was all mine needed the first time it gave problems.

I never worry about tires on my Subaru, when I need one I buy it. If I had to replace all four tires when I need one running a mail Rt. I would sell the Subaru and get something else to drive. I had many miles on my Subaru before I ever heard this so I just kept doing it the same way. It made it to 340,000 miles before I had to change the transmission. It has got nearly 400,000 miles now and when it needs a tire I will buy a tire not four. And when I need another transmission I will have more then enough money saved to buy it because I have not wasted it all on tires. But I will also say it is not recommended by Subaru to do it the way I do. So the ones here telling you to be careful are telling you straight. I think Subaru gives this warning like drug companies give warning on their medicine, if you worried about all of the side affects you might get you would not take any medicine.

I clean mine with brake cleaner (spray can type) then repack with high temp. wheel bearing grease, but blow dry bearing good before repacking. The first bearing I done I left the grease in it that came with the bearing, lasted about one month. However the hub also had play in it so I dont know how much damage was done from grease and how much was because of the bad hub.

My radiator is an after market metal one, it had a plactic drain plug and plactic vent screw, I have replaced both with a metel bolt and they work fine.

I replaced mine with a bolt.

Cougar, sorry did not intend to repeat your post, but it was not there when I started my very slow typing.

On my 97 Legacy wagon their is a plate over the pump, I remove the cover and unplug the connector, I have never tested the wiring but I have replaced the pump more then once. You should be able to test for current with a small test light or muti meter. I see you said you replaced the relay, have you checked your fuse? I have never checked mine to see if there is a fuse but I would think there should be one either under the hood or dash.

You can take the fuel line off at the filter and stick the end in a two liter coke bottle and have someone crank the engine, it will be easy to tell if it is working. Dont let the gas get near a spark.

I think the E.C.U. might need to be replaced with one that has the same # as the one that was originally in that car, I know they cost a lot of money but you can get these from Rock auto for a lot less then through Subaru. Or post for one with your # on junk yard dog.

R.H.D. Subaru wagons do not belong to the Post Office, Most are owned by rural carriers that work for the P.O. They were sold to us from the early nineties untill around 1999 or 2000. We bought them much cheaper then most people bought Subaru's, through a deal struck through the Rural carrier association and Subaru. For some unknown reason Subaru quit offering them to us around 1999 now that the supply is short the price is very high. Now a lot of carriers are buying low mileage R.H.D. jeeps from the mid 90's that are being imported in from Japan and other places where they are sold, we are paying about twice as much for these as L.H.D. jeeps of the same year are selling here for. I bought a 96 R.H.D. jeep from Japan with around 30,000 miles on it last year for about 10,500.00 dollars, I could most likely sell this jeep within the postal system today for the same money. I also still have my Postal Subaru with around 380,000 miles on it. It is on the third motor and second transmission, fourth drive shaft and fourth fuel pump, along with many other parts that have been changed more then twice each. Some of the interior is ragged out but it would probably sell for around 5,000.00 if I wanted to sell it, but I would not sell it for that.

When my E.C.U. went out I was not getting a flash to the # three inj. pigtail, however the # three pigtail did have current from the battery when tested with a meter. I dont understand your comment on the E.C.U. the numbers are different but it worked on another car were these two Subaru's just like the two you switched with now?

The inner tie rod may be causing your problem, when mine were bad I had lots of play at the nine and three. Jack up the front and check, also spin the wheel and put your hand on the coil spring if it feels rough then it could be a wheel bearing. Also check the steering shaft U-joint.

Are you getting fuel on the outlet side of the filter? Also check and see if the pigtails of the inj. are getting the noid light to flash, if I remember correct you said you changed the E.C.U. did the numbers on the two units match? When I replaced my E.C.U. I was told the numbers had to match.

Are you getting fuel to the filter? I still think you have air problem, you can pull that vacum line off at the air filter housing tube and spray inj. cleaner into it to clean that I.A.C. valve. If you had the intake off during the motor switch you may have left something off under there, we just put a rebuidt 2.2 in my Legacy wagon and if I remember correct I think their were around seven things to hook back up there counting all of the little vacum lines and sensors.

Sounds like you may have left the big vacum line off, that runs from the I.A.C. valve to the air intake tube. It is the one that is around 3/4 in. in dia.

Hey Porcupine, I never thought of locking that rotor down like you did in your picture, I will remember that. Also a few weeks back you wanted to know if the crows feet that came with the Harbor Freight inner tie rod remover would fit the subaru tie rods, yes they have one in that set that fits my 97 Legacy wagon.

You most likly have not hurt it yet, I would put it back where it was until you get the reseach you need to decide if you want to tighten it. Are you sure that play is not in the joints of the C.V.? Did you check it with the other side? I took the the adj. ring off of a Subaru transmission that was out of my car and no good. It did not look like it had any control on any adj. to me, but I have seen where someone here posted the information out of the F.S.M. and it did say it had to be set right as Nipper says.

Your going to get a lecture for this, I got one just for thinking about doing it. I would not drive it to much until you hear some of the thoughts on it and then make up your mind. Or you can do a search on replaceing transaxle seals and get some of the thoughts that already are posted on this subject.

I dont know about sensors, but as far as the connectors under the dash I think they were around four to six of them, it has been a few years so I dont remember for sure. I think they are around two on each side and may a couple in the center, you should be able to see the two on the sides by looking up under the dash.