tcspeer

After replacing a heater core in my 97 Legacy I had the air bag light on the dash stay on. I found my problem to be one of the locks on the yellow plug was not closed. Even through it was plugged in it still needed to be locked.

If the steering shaft U- joint has been changed it may be off one or two teeth. I had Goodyear do a alignment on our Jeep and the steering wheel was also not straight so I took it back and they made it a little better but it is still off some.

I just shipped my old core which was a 2.2 back to C.C.R. it was the block and heads, their shipping weight on the paper work showed 215 lbs. for engine and crate. I would say the crate did not weight but around fifteen or twenty lbs.

Pdeltoid, you can check to see if volts are at the pigtail with multi-meter, but to check the E.C.U. you will need the noid light, as cougar says any reading you get would probably be funny, and most likly useless.

You might push up and down on the front of the car, the klunk could be a bad strut mount.

Another suggestion is to check the # 3 plug with a inline plug checker to see if you have fire, then check that # three injector pigtail with a noid light, I had this same problem with cyc. three misfire and mine turned out to be the E.C.U. (computer). I had no flash to this inj. pigtail but I had volts to the pigtail.

Porcupine, I found my old inner tie rod, the 1 1/4 crow foot from the H.F. set is a perfect fit for mine which is a 1997 Subaru Legacy wagon.

Noid lights are cheap, and very helpful tool to have and as stated by EVOthis they will tell you you if you have a problem with the pulse from the computer.

If you have drum brakes on the rear adj. the shoes out. You may try backing and stopping fast or you may need to adj. with star adj. When they are not adj. you will get a clunk at the end of stop.

Dr. Krazy, if you still have that new inner tie rod would you be kind enough to see what size crows foot is needed for the inner end.

Porcupine, Yes the crow feet that come with the H.F. set does fit. I went out to see what size the inner tie rod needed but I no longer have the old rods. I did not have my inner tie rod tool when I changed mine, I used a big cresent wrench and pipe wrenches, it was such a pain that I did not want to do it that way again so I ordered the tool. I did still have the inner tie rods when the tool arrived and checked out how every thing worked together and yes one of the crow feet fit perfect, also the ball joint socket is already greased. Make sure you order the new lock washes for the tie rods, they are not regular lock washes so you must get them from Dealer, I have heard some of the aftermarket tie rods come with new lock washes, the ones I ordered from Subaru did not. Also use lock tite on the inner tie rods, I was given this advice from Midas after I got mine back together.

I have had this twice on my Subaru, once it was the steering shaft U- joint as mentioned by Nipper, the last time it was the inner tie rods. If you get a clunk sound when turning it can be the big bushing at rear of control arm, this bushing is easy to check grease will come out of it when it goes bad.

Is the connector plugged into the coil pack? I know it's a simple suggestion but I have not seen it mentioned. That small plug can hide very easy.

Are the fin's in the radiator clean? If not I would take it out and wash it out good. Also you might want to try changing the T-stat if this has not already been done.

Gritle, sorry about my comment about the master cyclinder, this is about your brakes, I think the person that said something about looking for brake fluild loss on the right side might be on to something. Damage there would explain the low pedal and the pulling to the other side, it may be something as simple as changing the rubber brake line.

Removed for the same reason as my other post. My Subaru is R.H.D. postal so any comment about master cyclinder may be confusing since mine is on the wrong side of car.

Is their a small shop you trust? Seems to me like Goodyear, Midas and places like that always want to do more then is needed. Most likely they will end up wanting hundreds.

Removed by T.C. to avoid confusion, as this comment was about my Subaru which is different then the one being discussed.

That is a fine looking home made tool, I paid around 150.00 dollars for mine from Subaru and I have to use a 1/2 breaker bar with it. (Well Done)

I love the Duralast rotors from Auto Zone, just dont buy the cheaper ones they sell for around 20.00 dollars. I also like the Wagner Quiet pads from O' Riley. I also will never pay to have another one turned, just buy the new ones. With my job the turned rotor is warped in just a few days.

We just put a C.C.R. block in my postal Subaru and we run into the same thing, we over came it by jacking the transmission as high as we could to get motor and transmission together good, and then used a hammer and pipe and drove the mount back until they fell in.

You should be good for many more miles after you replace the belt, pulley's, water pump and seals. You might check the front U- joint in the main driveshaft for the vibration problem you speak of. Make sure you dont use the arrows on the spockets for the timing marks. Use the little line marks.

You may have the hub pressed in to tight, If you can turn it by hand it may be O.K. I replaced one with a new bearing and it was a little tight but it would turn by hand so I put it on and had no problems with it. Push the hub back just a bit and see if it free's it.

Yes, that engine is interference you need to change belt and at least check the pulleys. I had the same engine 97 2.2 and I kept the belt changed but lost the engine at 288,000 miles when the toothed pully came apart. I think with the miles you got it might be best to change them all.

Very good Shawn! How did you know it was pass. side? I see after rereading post the misfires was on that side, but I also had no ideal it had two chains, in fact I didn't know any Subaru had timing chains.