tcspeer

The chronic misfire going up hills sounds like it could also be a coil pact giving trouble, if after changing the plugs and wires the trouble is still there then I would check that.

Type in car talk.com They have a place on there site to help you find a mechanic in your area, then check the place they suggest with the B.B.B.

I also think it would be the rotors, but you might try getting your tires rebalanced, and having the shop check to see if one of the belts may have seperated. Or if you dont want to spend the money for that you might try putting the tires on the back to the front and the ones on the front to the rear.

I took mine off and wrapped the ball with one layer of tin foil, I done this as a part time fix and ordered a new one, however I have not had to put the new one on yet as the tin foil is still holding tight.

It may not be a moisture problem, check your fuel inj. plugs and see if you may have knocked one loose with the water pressure.

Thanks it looks like the one with the rubber tip goes on top.

On my 97 Legacy wagon, one of the brake caliper pins has a rubber tip on the end, the other one is just a metal pin which one is the guide pin and which one is the lock pin? and which one goes on the bottom and which one goes on top.

I think the caliper to bracket is around 28 ft. lbs. If you dont have a manual to get the torque range, I would just use a wrench to tighten it, it is very easy to do more damage with a torque wrench then without if you dont have the torque range. I know because I twisted off a transmission pan bolt by guessing.

Three tips, be sure and mark the top flange bolt with a paint marker to the flange, this will keep your alinement, also mark the orination of the top hat to the spring, and remember the little hole in the top hat should be turned out towards the tire.

I dont know if a 94 jeep has a coil pact but if it does check for a wire that may be loose. This was the cause for a Buick that we owned doing what you have described.

Me! I got some from Discount Tires, Kumiko or something like that. (Sorry) I hope no one has nay chineese tires..... nipper

I think most auto parts are now made in China, I know the cheap rotors are but I thought I remembered seeing made in Canada on the Dura last ones. These have worked great on my Postal Subaru because they have to be changed so much that the price becomes another factor for me. I have not had any issues with the other things you bought up from the rotors but I understand your point, I bought a aftermarket radiator for our Saturn wagon and nothing about it wanted to fit right.

Yes to the last question, I done a 98 Legacy wagon with the Harbor Freight press.

I also like the Auto Zone rotor, not the cheap one they sell but the Duralast rotor somewhere around 28.00 to 30.00 dollars if I remember correct. Nipper I know about that trying to get back up, I am still having trouble most of the time I have to crawl over to something I can get hold of to help me get up. But it is still getting better every day. I hope you are still improving each day. T.C.

I dont think that amount of oil will hurt, but I would drain it out soon. Squealing brakes will not hurt anything but your ears but I would do as suggested above and take it back and make them fix it.

After replacing a transmission in a 98 postal legacy wagon, I took the old one and took the seals out. If I remember correct there is a small bolt you need to remove to turn the cover off, then their is also a O-ring on this cover that need replacing so make sure you get that along with the seals. It was very easy to take the seals and O-ring out and then put them back in, how ever I dont know how critcal getting ever thing back is because mine went to the savage yard after I played with it a while.

O.K. your way does sound better, but I am still not throwing away my J.B. weld. you know it was invented here in Tx. and we believe in it.

On my 2.2 engine the oil pump mounting bolts call for 48 t0 60 in. lbs so at 8 ft. pounds you had 96 in. lbs. I done this same thing with my transmission pan bolts, so I know how it can happen. I gave up on mine and took it back to the dealer it was nearly a 300.00 dollar mistake for me. You might try getting new bolts at the dealer maybe you will be lucky and only have the bolts stripped and not the holes.

I used J.B. weld on the power steering hose line connector, and it held, I put it on the threads and in the hole and then tighten the bolt down as tight as it would go without spinning around again.

Have you tried putting the two old tires on the rear back to the front to see if that would change the shaking? I think I would replace the old ones also if you can afford too. Also check your steering shaft U- Joint it is the joint that is on the end of the steering wheel shaft where it connects to the steering gear box.

The groaning is probably caused by contamination on the pads or shoes, you may be able to clean them with brake cleaner or you may have to replace them. The other noise I dont know what that might be.

If it turns out to be a wheel bearing, you can get the spindle and hub with bearing from a wrecking yard for 50.00 to 75.00 dollars, put it on your car. Then if you want to learn to do your own you can buy a press from Harbor Freight and practice with your old spindle and hub. I posted a how to under the title how to conquer the wheel bearing a while back you should be able to find it with the search feature. Others here have done theirs with a Hub tamer which you can also find information with the search.

You can find all of the knuckle and hub assm. you need if you will type in junkyarddog. You can put your request their and junk yards from all around will contact you by E- mail if they have what you need. I use this site alot it is very good.

Good suggestions above however I think you have a bad hub, I would get the spindle from the wrecking yard as suggested above but I would not press new bearing and hub in, I would leave the bearing and hub in the spindle and repalce the whole thing. I dont know about the grease that comes in the bearings now but it used to have to be removed and repacked, I know because I installed one with the grease that it came with and it lasted about one month.

I also agree I think it would leak at back of transmission, Why are you removing the driveshaft? I am on my fourth one but my Subaru has been used for stop and go mail del. for the last eleven years. I have not heard of anyone else here having to replace one but I dont check the board ever day so I may have missed someone else driveshaft problems. I was wondering if you were also using yours for some kind of del. service. And if you are taking it out to be replaced they are pricey I paid a little over five hundred for my last one.