tcspeer

I have tried many times to rebuild the calipers on my 97 Legacy wagon, I have never been able to get the rubber boots to stay on. However mine does not have a metal ring. I let Midas rebuild my calipers about eight years back, maybe they left them off. I have rebuild the calipers on our Saturn wagon and they have the metal rings and are easy.

It has always worked for me, even when taking the radiator out. Which I always do when going into the front of the engine. If you prefer to remove your hoses and fill yours that way then that's fine. I was just offering an easily way then some have been doing it. Please explain how you get more coolant into block by taking hose loose rather then letting it run into the block from the hose that is connected to the radiator.

The simple solution and why it works. I know many people here have trouble getting the coolant full and taking air traps out of their Subaru's, they have been many people post about how to solve this problem and most work well. But why remove heater hoses or radiator hoses or loosen vent caps what ever they are. All that needs to be done is remove radiator cap, start the engine when it is cold and turn heater on. The open cap will let the air out just as well as removing hoses. As the coolant circulates you can add more each time it is sucked down. This has worked many times on my Subaru's and I have had two different ones.

I agree with the shop, I think it is air. Wait until car is cold and take radiator cap off, then start car with heater on and add coolant every time a little is sucked in. Be patient and keep this up until themostart opens.

Have your ball joints and tie rod ends checked.

I thought it sounded a little like a Alt. pully or power steering pully or some other pully with the whine that was there with the knock. Did you check the little adj. pully on the bar that comes down,I think from the A.C. compresser?

On page three check out the posts that were made by gcleeton

Are the front and rear seals leaking? I had a 98 wagon the gauge goes to hot and the heater blows cold when the coolant gets low and air gets trapped. My 98 was very hard to get the coolant right after changing anything to do with the cooling system.

Sounds like the common problem of air trap. I did not see your reason for thinking the head gasket was bad. Let the engine cool and take of radiator cap and start engine with heater on put more coolant in ever times the engine sucks a little more down. I would try this first or if you already have I would try it again.

I replaced one a few years back and if I remember right I think it is called a rear hatch strut. Check with Litha Subaru in Or. for price their # is 1- 866-717-2512 they sell Subaru parts at discount prices. And I get most parts in two days from them and I live in Tx.

It does sound like the strut mount, it is not hard to change if you already know how to take the strut asmb. out. If you will mark your top strut flange bolt you should not need any alinement after. If you want to check the mount have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the strut arm if the mount is bad you should see the arm jump a little while it is being moved. Just compare it with the other side and you will see. Also you can borrow the spring compressors for a small deposit at most auto chains like Auto Zone or O'Reily's. Be sure and mark the orination of the top hat with your spring with a paint marker it does make a difference how it goes back. The top hat is the metal plate that sets on top of the spring.The small hole in the top hat faces the outside of tire when you put it back into car, or the side nearest you if you are standing by tire and looking towards the engine.

You done a great job! I can not even dream of doing this in drive way with no help. Me and a freind changed one last spring in a 98 Legacy wagon and we had all of the fancy things to work with and it took us around ten hours, but we wasted around one hour trying to move enough stuff out of the way to get the torque bolts from the bottom which never happened, and we also done one wheel bearing. You are correct the torque bolts are the only hard thing, we poked a rag in the large hole to try and stop bolts from falling down in. You should be fine with the transmission with 116,000 miles I put over 300,000 miles of stop and go driving on a mail Rt. before the one in my other Subaru quit. If I remember correct I complained about those bolts on my post when I finished.

I see from past post you have a 95, that's good you wont have to worry about the interference of valves and pistons.

I do not know about the price you got, but if you have a local muffer shop close that has been in bussiness for a few years I would check with them. I have found that they are usually cheaper then the big chain places and the small shops that do lots of difference things.

I unpluged mine at around 100,000 miles and it worked fine until I had way over 300,000 miles on it, with no noise at all. Now it has finnaly been broke from hitting to much brush and limbs but the same outcome would have happened if it was going up and down, because the only time it was down was when it was sitting. If you find a good deal on new ones let me know because I need one also.

Nipper, if the sound is the only problem just run it to the top even if you have to use your hand to help it get there, then remove the cover on the inside of back area and unplug the elc. connector at the base of antenna and you will have an antenna like everyone had forty years ago. If you go through a auto wash you can still push it down by hand. Of course if you want to fix it try the junk yard dog search for a junk yard antenna.

If this is the case then you do have air in the system, you should not have to do anything with the thermostat unless you just want to change it because of age.

Unless some of these Subaru's are different then mine, then you would have to press the hub out of the spindle. This would do more damage to the bearing then punching the stud out with a punch and hammer. If you removed the spindle then you would still be hammering the stud out with the bearing in place. However mine is a 97 year model and I dont know how some of the hubs are on some of these other models, so they may seperate from the spindle more easy.

I am in agreement with this, you probably need to add more coolant. When engine is cool take off Radiator cap and start engine with heater on, let idle and keep putting more coolant in every time some is sucked down. Their is other ways to do this but this has worked for me. This process will take some time.

Pull both cables + & - I had to do this on my 97 some times to clear the codes. Sometimes pulling the - will work some time I had to pull both. Wait about 30 min.

For those who might like to know I also checked CCR and found their have been no complaints in the last 36 months.

No typo, the report is here, www.dallas.bbb.org/commonreport.html?bid=19000630&language=1

I dont remember where the EGR valve is mounted but CCR told me I would have to bolt my intake onto the new engine so maybe this will take care of that. Dont the EGR send the exhaust gas back to the intake? I still have a few days to change my order with CCR so I hope to have all of the information I need to make the right choice, I do not want the interference engine of the 97 if I can by pass it with no problems.

My 97 has the exhaust coming down on both sides of the engine also. I have been told by Litha Subaru and C.C.R. that I can make this swap from 96 to 97. Litha told me that there would be some issues swapping a 95 to 97 I did not ask them why, maybe someone here knows.

They have over 80 complaints in the last 36 months, just think how many people they ripped off that didnt file a complaint.