tcspeer

35 min. is good time, I have replaced a few and I cant get close to that time. But I do spend lots of time keeping my dog from hauling stuff off.

I love stop leak, but not many others here do. I had a rear seal start leaking on my Legacy wagon at around 100,000 miles and I put the gold eagle brand in my engine and it stopped leaking. My idle pully came apart and I replaced the engine at 288,000 miles and it had never started back leaking. Also my cams seals never leaked after using the stop leak. The other car I used stop leak in at around 150,000 miles and ended up putting around 400,000 miles on it with no trouble. I have never heard of anyone winning a law suit against the makers of these products for damage done to an engine and they have been around for nearly 100 years. If you go to the web site of some these products they explain how they work, they gently cause the dried seal to expand through chemical reaction.

I also have been happy with rockauto, price, shipping, and good customer service. They also have a good parts catalog on their site.

It does go faster after you do it a few times, it took me a day and a half to put mine in the first time, I think I could do it now in maybe eight hours but four hours is really moving on. But I also have that pesky air bag system to contend with in mine. I noticed the price was the same at the site Brus brother gave the link to and the online parts catalog is really nice.

Thanks this is a good site, I get my parts from Lithia Subaru now and their prices are about the same as these with good service and fast shipping, but they dont have the online parts catalog like this so I added it to my favorites to check prices even through I will stay with Lithia when it comes time to buy.

I know what you mean, I have went with cheaper prices before only to regret it because of poor work. If you trust these people then they are probably close to what someone else would charge considering the damage that was probably done from the brakes being struck.

I agree it does seem a little high, the rear links are 58.00 dollars each and it will need two, I know I just bought two.

You might try elc. spray cleaner from Radio Shack, just make sure you get the one that says safe to use on plactic. My buttons got sticky from drinks spilling on them and this worked on mine, but yours may be just broke.

That is hard to believe that so many here have had problems with tires leaking around the bead, that is almost unheard of here in Texas, if we have a low tire most of the time it has a nail in it. However I ordered a front control arm from a junk yard in N.H. and when it got here to Tx. It was covered with rust something not seen much here.

Did you check the reading of the new code? May not be the same codes as before. I would check the areas you worked near while checking the Purge valve and installing the 0-2 sensor you may have knocked a vacum line off or unpluged something.

He's from New York, thats not what he meant, he meant if the fluid is clean and red then maybe there is some other problem. (not that their is any thing wrong with New York)

You talked to either Julie or Leia, I talked to Paul the day I called. I do so much bussiness with these people, I now know them by name and even got a Christmas card from them last year. I have two right hand drive Subaru's and together they have over 1/2 millon miles on them and these are hard miles of stop and go mail del. so you can see why I have to buy so many parts. I ordered a front wheel bearing one time and they sent the back, so when I called and told them they told me to keep it and they sent me the front free of charge, plus they will go to the floor and get answers from the mechanics for you when you need advice. Good people to deal with I hope other people will give them a try.

You can buy a plug kit at Wal Mart, some of the plugs you dont have to use the cement with, but the better solution is what I now use which is the manuel tire changer from Harbor Freight around 50.00 dollars on sale. Once you learn to use it you can do a tire in about five minutes.

Some days that might not be a bad ideal. I have had to replace the fuel pumps in both of my Subarus in the last six months. Both times I had to go after parts which is no small deal for me the nearest place that have things in stock is around thirty miles away.

New heads will cause the rings to allow more oil to get past, but if most of the smoke is on start up it is most likely draining down past the valve stem seals while engine is not running, but then this may not be easy giving the fact the heads sit the way they do. I had valve stems seals replaced on a chev V-8 engine with out even taking the heads off. They used air in the clylinders to hold valves in place, I dont know if this can be done on a Subaru.

There is a neat little test system for this, you can get them from the Snap On truck, or most likely find them cheaper on line. It comes in a plastic molded case with about three or four styles of caps for different radiators, a small pump with gauges and line hook ups. I borrowed one from my nephew and was impressed with how useful it could be. I dont know how to post the image here but if you go to snap on tools and search (cooling system tester) it will bring this up.

Save it! nothing like having parts on hand when you break down.

Thats a new one for me also my two mail Subaru's have over 500,000 miles on them between the two and I never had this problem and have had to change many front bearing, but I never had a bearing be total gone so they was not much play in the hub. Glad to hear you have it fixed.

Lithia Subaru has new factory ones in stock for 198.00 dollars and some change I think they said 198.88. This is the price for one for your 90 Legacy wagon.

I dont know why those places are so high, I bought a new one from Lithia Subaru for much less, give them a call toll free at 866-717-2512, I get my parts in two days from them and I live in Tx. They are in Oregon.

Dont forget to check the u- joints on the drive shaft.

If the top hose is hot I would think the water is flowing through the engine, but maybe not. I think you still have air trapped Subaru is the worst engine I have seen about getting the coolant back right after working on any thing to do with the coolant. I dont remember if you said, you put a new themostat in it or not, if you cut the center part out of the themostat and save the outer ring you can try running it without it and see if that will help.

Yes that is the one, except mine is closer to the center of the car. I would have someone move the lever while you look at it and see if it is moving. Worth a chance if you are out of ideals.

I asked above but other posted and you may not have seen, but I was wondering if you found out why the heater was not blowing hot. I thought maybe you might have left the wire cable deal off that hooks to the unit and if operated by the slide lever on the dash.

Did you get the system full of coolant after the change? I let mine idle and keep adding it real slow while the heater is on. I dont think you have blocked any passages in the engine, I have used stop leak for years with no problem. I think most of the products will only seal when they become exposed to air.