tcspeer

Yea it's EJ I was not paying attention to what I was typing. I did double check the other numbers.

Other than the EZ22 I found these numbers 516418518731 this is by the block where the bar from transmission bolts on. 642976 is on the back right side of block and 3419 is under the power steering tank.

You want me to go back out and write them down? It's tough to get help around here without having to do something, I will be back with the numbers in a bit.

Is their anyway to tell what year model a 2.2 engine is when it is not in a car? It does have some numbers on engine but I dont know if they mean anything.

The best pads for the money is the dura last from Auto Zone, arond 20.00 dollars.they now come with the shim rivereted on to back, they used to be just glued. My Legacy is used for mail del. over 600 stops a day with a loaded car and the pads are better then the O.E.M. and I should know because I was forced to use the O.E.M. for nearly two years due to the pad design change from the 96 model to the 97, and at that time they were no aftermarket pads to be had due to the design change. These are much better then any of the many other pads I have tried.

If you are not use to greasing these, please be aware that you dont want to put to many pumps in the places that have the rubber boots because they will bust open and then it is hard to keep grease in them. You will see the boot start to fill after about two pumps maybe three if it is really dry, then stop.

We bolted the transmission to motor first, but make sure we had on of the converter holes up. I heard someone say you could losen motor mount bolts and raise the engine enough to get them from the bottom I dont know if that would work or not.

The pull is most likely back because of the wear pattern on the tires, if you will change the right front tire to the left and the left to the right the pull will most likly go to the other side.

I changed out a transmission in a 98 legacy wagon that I also bought with transmission out, and it also looked like that, the big gear in the front was busted. What I really wanted to know how did you take the converter bolts out? We went through the top access hole but it was not easy, every thing else was amazing easy. Did you find a way that was more easy? and if so please let me know as we have one more that needs changing out. Also check and make sure your tires are the same size when we pulled the transmission out we found a remanufacterd tag on the bad transmission so we were putting at least the third one in it. So I looked and found that the other owner was running different size tires on it, most likly causing the problems.quote=srponies]I swapped the trans in my '98 OBW a while ago (bought it with bad trans). Today I pulled the original trans apart to part it out. I found the reason that the car wouldn't even move with the FWD fuse in. Photos attached. Quite amazing! I think that it had been run without gear oil for some time. Not much left of that pinion gear.... Yikes! Steve

I just clicked on the pitcure of the car it looks worth 250.00 dollars to me. I would pay that just for the parts.

I have two right hand drive Legay's wagon, I also have not seen one with a standard transmission, most parts will interchange but like ionic said the steering comportants are the main ones that wont change out, also the heater core wont. I also would agree with ionic on the beating they take. The one I bought new in 96 is still in good shape because I put new stuff on it as it wears out, the other one that I bought for 100.00 dollars with the transmission bad has not been taken care of and it was in sad shape. I have got it close to decent shape but it has cost a bunch and lots of work. If you want to buy the one you are looking at I would check and make sure the bushing at the back side of control arms are good they wear out really fast on mail del. and they cost around 70.00 dollars each with the postal discount we get. Also check struts, drive axles , and wheel bearing.

I wish I was near I would be glad to help, you are doing what I have done instead of paying someone to do the job I pay someone to teach me. I am lucky through I have neighbor, a nephew and other kin and freinds that do mechanic work so if I come up with the money they will take time for me.

Check the steering shaft U- joint also, I had to replace mine because it was clunking.

T.P.S. maybe?

I also use that chain wrench with a piece of old belt around pullys, and found it best to duct tape the belt to hold it on while getting chain wrench on. Also save the pieces you cut to fit and the next time you will save some time.

Imdew is right just line those marks up, dont even think about T.D.C. that will just get things confused, remember the cams are right with every turn and the pistons are in center of engine when the crank mark is lined up.

Yes! it is an interference engine. And the cam and crank pullys need to be torqued before installing belt. I think it might be best to take the plugs out( but you might want to wait for second opinion on that.) and then turn the two cam spockects by wrench to the marks on cover, then turn the crank spocket back to the mark at top (dont use the arrow) use the little line on one of the little tabs that stick off of spocket you will be back in time. Maybe you didnt damage the engine but you can check with a compression gauge if it dont start after installing the belt. Also I think the pully on the adj. is smooth on my engine so the two you left off should have both been smooth, but maybe I dont remember. I dont think you damaged it by hand because I let my cam spocket get turned once when I was removing the bolt with an impact on it and it survived.

Dipute the charge with the credit card, that will give them a headache.

some people lie, some dont. If you are close to the yard check and see if you can find one still in car and get it, if mileage suits you.

Same on my Chev Lumina, it just lays in trunk until needed and then I just pull it out and close the trunk on it. but also I dont use it much.

Here's the solution, Leave the Idler off of the belt adj. (but put the adj. on) Also leave the left bottom passingers side idler off. Then put belt on, and then put the belt adj. idler back on, then put the passinger bottom left Idler back on. If yours is right hand drive it's still left side as you face the engine from front, just drivers side for you. Dont forget to pull the pen in the adj. when you finish.

I know what you mean, I go through so many axles, front wheel bearing, ball joints, and brakes that everything comes apart with very little work it dont have time to set up rust.

Yes it a gamble all the time, yesterday I bought a fuel pump for my 98 Legacy wagon from O'Reilly's and it was 82.00 dollars but they said unless I bought the new strainer for another 20.00 dollars it had no warranty, I took the gamble and passed on the strainer and warranty.

I think you only need to take the battery cable off and leave the hood open for a while it will dry then run fine and the light will be off, after putting cable back on. This happens often after washing engine with hose or at car wash. you might want to take the plug wires off and dry the plugs and the end of wires.

Not always better to press a new bearing into an old spindle, sometimes the hub has been damaged after running with a bad bearing. Then you are out lots of money and still need to have it repaired. Why not buy the used spindle and hub and replace it and then buy a bearing for around 40.00 and put it in the hub you took off or have someone else press it in, then you have a spare.